Anybody ever dealt with Troyer Performanc for any mods for the F150? Trying to find out about their reputation. Looking up new coil packs and wires for my 98 f150 4.6 auto on Troyer's website. Here is the info:

<big>Ignition Upgrade Package for 1997-1999 Ford F-series & Expedition w/4.6 V8</big>
<small>PPI-IU979946</small> <table border="0" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr> <td valign="top" width="100%"> <small>Complete High-Performance Ignition System Upgrade Package for 1997 thru 1999 Ford F-series & Ford Expedition with the 4.6 V8 engine.

Complete High-Performance upgrade including Matching High-Performance Coil Packs, Low-Resistance Spark Plug Wires & a full set of the best performance spark plug ever made, the Denso Iridium!

Power gains average 14-16 HP over new stock factory ignition, and even more on vehicles with some miles on the stock factory ignition. Will also help to improve fuel mileage.

The stock factory ignition components should be replaced at 36K-40K miles or 3 years in these vehicles, whichever comes first. This upgrade package uses much higher quality components than Ford does, and will deliver significantly more power for *less* than the cost of new factory stock ignition components.

You will be able to run the full spark plug gap even on supercharged engines in high-humidity conditions, get a strong spark and pull cleanly to redline in every gear.

Upgrading the ignition on these 4.6 motors is one of the better bang-for-the-buck modifications you can make, and helps improve fuel mileage as well as performance.

You can't lose with this package, order yours today!</small></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="60%">
<small>Price: $299.00</small></td></tr></tbody></table>
Sound realistic to gain real wheel power with a aftermarket ignition system over the factory system? Will be adding mods one by one heading towards a supercharger.

What do you guys think??

Thanks.

Rob

 

I have installed this on my 1999 4.6, several years ago at around 100k miles. MSD coil packs, iridium plugs, and new wires. I have a Magnaflow exhaust too.

I'm a bit of a gearhead, so when it was tune-up time I figured I'd go with some better components than stock, so I found the Troyer stuff. I can't speak for power gains, but I can say that my truck wasn't running so well prior to installing their stuff. It had a weird stumble that I thought for sure was a transmission problem, but after replacing those parts, that went away.

Probably not the info you were looking for, but my transaction was smooth and they delivered what I purchased and it's good stuff that still works great after more than a few years.

I think if you have the choice of spending the same money on OEM stuff, that going this route is a better idea. It's always good to "upgrade" as long as your expectations are in line... 14hp isn't going to snap your head off your torso, but any gains from bolt-on stuff that you need to replace anyway are good gains.

 

I could not have said it better myself. Did plugs and coils u purchased from Troyer MSD?

 

Oops meant to say are they MSD?

 

The wires that come with the Troyers are not that great. You have to understand a few things about wires on FI systems. You also have to realize that there are lot of factors that play into this, so it will not affect everyone the same way.

When you have 40,000 volt flow through a wire, it creates an electromagnetic field which can cause a current to flow in other circuits and cause electrical noise. This noise can alter sensor readings, and cause a host of electrical problems. To combat the effect, you can either counter the effect through a resistor, or through cancellation. As a general rule, most "high performance" or low resistance wires have poor EMF suppression.

The stock system uses the first method, which consists of a carbon film that the current flows through, which has enough resistance to carry the needed current while suppressing the electromagnetic field. This approach is relatively low cost and works well, until the carbon film begins to break down. The stock wires use a fairly heavy duty design, and a specific carbon chemistry that makes them reliable and durable. Most aftermarket wires are not so well made, using thinner carbon layers and cheaper blends. The insulation is often cheaper, and the construction shoddy. The crimped contacts are also often cheap, and poorly terminated. Most aftermarket wires have poored EFM suppresion than the stock wires, though they are usually within specs.

The second type of suppression consists of a low resistance winding that cancels its own magnetic field. This design works well when properly instituted, however this design is very expensive to make. Most brands use a few windings impregnated in a carbon film. These wires are as high resistance as stock wires, but will test as low resistance. This is because at low resistance, the current will flow through a thin low resistance winding, but at higher voltage , the electrons repel each other and will flow through the outer carbon film. Most low resistance wires are of this type. Most have poor EMF suppression, which can sometime cause other problems sometimes problems you wouldn't realize were related.

There is only one company to my knowledge that makes a truly good high performance wire. That is Magnacore. I use them myself. They are an excellent wire, and the EMF suppression is excellent, and the resistance is much lower than stock. The design delivers as much energy to the plugs as possible without the side effects of cheaper imitations. They are designed to last the life of the vehicle because they have no carbon conductor that breaks down, instead they use a 200 winding per inch stainless steel conductor.

I would disagree that Denso plugs would be the best choice. Denso plugs are not he right heat range for Fords, andusing them can cause issues. I would use either Autolite Double Platinum or Autolite Iridium plugs. They are designed for the application and meet Fords specs more exactly than the Densos. NGK plugs would be good alternates.

The MSD coils are good. Stay away from Accel, those are cheaply made. I don't know how the MSD stand against the Motorcraft in terms of reliability, but they do cost less.

I find most of Troyer's calims to be false. They claim to use higher quality components. I'm sorry, but Ford set a pretty high par. The quality of the original Ford parts is hard to beat. They claim the parts need to be replaced at 36 - 40K miles. The original Ford parts are good for 80K to 100K miles. Upgraded ignition components do not produce power per se. They simply prevent power loss due to weak ignition components under adverse conditions.

I would buy the components separately. I think that when you truely put together all the best stuff, you get the best results.

 

I fully agree with Kahn.
I have done indepth investigations of ignition componants and see the public is fed a 'line' by all the vendors and discriptions in the catalogs, as a sales gimmik.
What has happened is the buyers/users perpetuates the falseness to the point now that most automaticlly think they need the same parts to find that magic horse power that dosen't exist as long as the original parts were good.
It is up to the user to find the real and usefull info by being informed about the application's requirements and the products that will full the application.
In a racing application, there are two major concerns.
One, the motor has been modified to a very much higher level of power and RPM capability and may need higher ignition quality.
Second, winning the race and finishing without ignition failure is front and center no matter the cost.
On a stock or even the normal mods done on road vehichle, do you need this level of igniton change?
I think not. 5500 RPM is not that high anymore and 'most' don't run their engines that high in normal driving.

 

These are all good points. Call Mike Troyer, and bring them up. He may have other information from all the hours of dyno-tuning that he has done.

 

You have to be careful, even with dyno tests. If the tests are not performed under nearly identical conditions, you can falsify the results. Just like K&N and their proven dyno results. If you look at the temperatures of the before and after tests, you find that often the baseline test was done at like 90°F, while the K&N test was done at like 60°. The temperature difference alone explains the power gains, and the filter did little or nothing.

You have to make sure the Troyer tests are comparing known good OEM components to their components under almost identical temperature and weather conditions. Changes in barometric pressure and humidity can alter the results.

 

I have bought many things from Troyer. Good customer service.
But I wouldn't expect much if any additional HP with that ignition system!

That 14 to 16hp is (crank) hp. NOT RWHP. so it's probably more like 2 or 3 rwhp....lol

 

So yall say the accel coil packs are junk? Truck has a 120000 plus miles did plugs fuel filter and PCV air filter next was my coil packs think ill post asking about accel coils from others too?

 

Said another way:::::::::Two things;;;;; you cannot feel any power increase with much less than a 10 hp gain.
Ignition requirements (voltage) at the plug tip is dependent on the compression pressure and the air to fuel ratio and the plug gap/tip conditions.
Required voltage varies each time the cylinder is fired. The average voltage required in the average engine without faults and over average driving is about 10,000 volts +/-.
The coils has to have reserve voltage to fire the worst case conditions that occurr when the EGR is opened under light throttle in a cruise conditiion. At this time the requirement may go up several fold.
Using coils with reserve over the max "stock limts" will not result in any extra performance. There is no extra HP in ignition by it'self.
Using coils with extra output on a stock motor means the power consumed goes up in the coils with little or no benifit but can create other issurs you did not have before.
People must seperate stock from intenional high performance when selecting parts.
Use the high buck parts for their intended uses and not on a stock motor.
In between, it's advertising hype to sell parts you don't need.
Same goes for high dollar intake systems.
Good luck.

 

Fairly well spoken. Its pretty much true. Either you ignite the mixture with the right intensity and timing or you don't. The stock coils are more than adequate, anything more than that just increases plug wear and can cause all sorts of problems. Most "performance wires" are a farse too. They consist of a carbon coated metallic core, which causes high EMI that causes problems. They test low resistance at low voltage, which looks good in the adds, but you have to remember electrons repel one another. At high voltage, the electrons repel enough that they will travel through the carbon coating, not the low resistance winding. This makes most performance wires a poor choice, and the EMI they generate can cause all sorts of electrical issues that you may not even think are related to the ignition system.

The best parts you can use on a stock motor is the OE parts.