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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 09:42 AM
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2010 F150

Recently purchased a 2010 F150 Crew Cab King Ranch. Love the truck, but the 6 spd automatic is driving me crazy - it's slow on take off, and sort of "clunks" into gear. Is anyone else having this issue?
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 09:49 AM
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Welcome aboard!

Let me introduce you to the search function. Saves a lot of time and you get answers a lot quicker.

These will get you started:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...t=transmission

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...g-problem.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...t=transmission
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by DSpunky1
Recently purchased a 2010 F150 Crew Cab King Ranch. Love the truck, but the 6 spd automatic is driving me crazy - it's slow on take off, and sort of "clunks" into gear. Is anyone else having this issue?
Since it is new you need to break it in hard so that it will eventually drive like you broke it in.

Read this:

The BEST Break for a new car. "very long" - 2011 Camaro Z28 Camaro Forum / Camaro Z28 SS Forums - Camaro5.com

This is what I did to break in my 2010 Camaro and what I'm doing now to break in my 2010 Lariat
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 10:22 AM
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Absolutely!

Don't worry that the engine, transmission, drivetrain of and F150 are completely different than a Camaro Z28.

It won't matter.

If you really want to break it in (hard), hook up a 10,000 lb trailer and head for the steepest mountain you can find. I'd make 10-20 trips at WOT up the mountain (stopping only to fill up with gas). Do not use the T/H mode (that way if you forget later - after the break in - your engine and transmission won't care).



Sorry tradosaurus, but IMHO this is the worst advice I've read in a while.

BTW, is the 2010 your first truck?
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by shotgunz
Absolutely!

Don't worry that the engine, transmission, drivetrain of and F150 are completely different than a Camaro Z28.

It won't matter.

If you really want to break it in (hard), hook up a 10,000 lb trailer and head for the steepest mountain you can find. I'd make 10-20 trips at WOT up the mountain (stopping only to fill up with gas). Do not use the T/H mode (that way if you forget later - after the break in - your engine and transmission won't care).



Sorry tradosaurus, but IMHO this is the worst advice I've read in a while.

BTW, is the 2010 your first truck?

Well actually.............When I had the engine replaced in my former '88 F-150, the tech (a well respected engine builder) told me to break her in like I intend to drive her. Now this was back in '95 when the engine was replaced on an antiquated piece of equipment by comparison.

I personally don't think it really matters considering all the fleet vehicles that are on the road with multiple drivers and they seem to hold up just fine.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 11:27 AM
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If all we broke in was the engine, you might be right. But we're 'breaking in' the entire drive train.

We're also not talking about a race engine.

IMHO you can't rely on fleet vehicle history as an indicator. Very few of their owners post their 'issues' or repairs. Yeah they might be running fine when they're 5-10 years old, but how much money was spent repairing them? You'd need OASIS reports for a large sample (of both fleet and private) to prove the drive-it-like-you-stole-it break-in is better than following the manufacturer's guidelines.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by shotgunz
If all we broke in was the engine, you might be right. But we're 'breaking in' the entire drive train.

We're also not talking about a race engine.

IMHO you can't rely on fleet vehicle history as an indicator. Very few of their owners post their 'issues' or repairs. Yeah they might be running fine when they're 5-10 years old, but how much money was spent repairing them? You'd need OASIS reports for a large sample (of both fleet and private) to prove the drive-it-like-you-stole-it break-in is better than following the manufacturer's guidelines.
Who said anything about race engines? By the body of your post, you both prove and disprove your statement. Without certified reports, there is no way to actually judge how the fleets are holding up. We both could be right or wrong.

Still a great discussion none the less.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by tseekins
Who said anything about race engines?
I was referring to the post linked in the second post:

For over 25 years I, my family and every single person I am friends with, hang around with and work with build, test, tune, design and race for a living or sport. My brother and I have built some of the fastest engines in the world for just about every form of motor sports you care to name. Engines costing well over 100k-150k. I don’t say this to toot my horn but to give some measure of my background and experience. I do so because the statements I am making in this post will no doubt be controversial for those who have no experience with engine building, component design and high end research and development.
Originally Posted by tseekins
By the body of your post, you both prove and disprove your statement. Without certified reports, there is no way to actually judge how the fleets are holding up. We both could be right or wrong.
Still a great discussion none the less.
Your reference to fleet vehicles implied 1) they do not break them in properly and 2) the vehicles are just fine even though they are 'abused'.

My point is without strong evidence to the contrary (which neither you nor I have), why would anyone risk damaging the engine and/or drivetrain by not following the manufacturer's recommendations?

And you're right - this is a great discussion!
back at ya'
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 12:27 PM
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Oh ok, my bad.

Actually when I just bought my '10 Focus and when I bought my '04 Expy, the owners manual said that for the first 1000 miles not to drive at the same continuous speeds and not to tow.

I'm assuming that after the first 1000 miles, anything that needs to be seated and worn in has more than likely done so.

I won't be getting my new truck until the spring when the 5.0L's are well into production so I have absolutely no experience with the new trucks.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 12:37 PM
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2009 is basically the same:

BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE
Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in. Try not to drive continuously at the same speed for the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of new vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the moving parts a chance to break in.

Drive your new vehicle at least 1,000 miles (1,600 km) before towing a trailer. For more detailed information about towing a trailer, refer to Trailer towing in the Tires, Wheels and Loading chapter. Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils since these additives may prevent piston ring seating. See Engine oil in the Maintenance and Specifications chapter for more information on oil usage.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by shotgunz
2009 is basically the same:

BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE
Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in. Try not to drive continuously at the same speed for the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of new vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the moving parts a chance to break in.

Drive your new vehicle at least 1,000 miles (1,600 km) before towing a trailer. For more detailed information about towing a trailer, refer to Trailer towing in the Tires, Wheels and Loading chapter. Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils since these additives may prevent piston ring seating. See Engine oil in the Maintenance and Specifications chapter for more information on oil usage.
You see, I do read my owners guide!
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by shotgunz
2009 is basically the same:

BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE
Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in. Try not to drive continuously at the same speed for the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of new vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the moving parts a chance to break in.

Drive your new vehicle at least 1,000 miles (1,600 km) before towing a trailer. For more detailed information about towing a trailer, refer to Trailer towing in the Tires, Wheels and Loading chapter. Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils since these additives may prevent piston ring seating. See Engine oil in the Maintenance and Specifications chapter for more information on oil usage.
This is why I will not buy a new one off of the lot that has many miles on it. Everybody that test drives them rags the hell out of them.

On the other hand, my John Deere's say to operate the tractors in the mid to upper load range for the first 100 hours (and do not idle for long periods) These tractors do use "break in" oil. BTW these are turbo charged diesels.

My 05 PSD says the same thing posted above, no towing, no break in oils, etc.

Kind of makes you wonder. Tractors are designed to work hard all of the time and they say "work it hard" and use break in oil. Ford seems to have a "standard" break in procedure for all of their vehicles whether gas, diesel or car or heavy duty truck.

Very interesting..
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 03:17 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by shotgunz
2009 is basically the same:

BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE
Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in. Try not to drive continuously at the same speed for the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of new vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the moving parts a chance to break in.

Drive your new vehicle at least 1,000 miles (1,600 km) before towing a trailer. For more detailed information about towing a trailer, refer to Trailer towing in the Tires, Wheels and Loading chapter. Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils since these additives may prevent piston ring seating. See Engine oil in the Maintenance and Specifications chapter for more information on oil usage.
I searched my owners manual for this and couldn't find it. So, after I read this, I searched the online version. Poof, there it was on page 5. No real disaster since that is the same procedure for my last 4 new vehicles. I just thought it was odd that it wasn't in there.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by shotgunz
Absolutely!

Don't worry that the engine, transmission, drivetrain of and F150 are completely different than a Camaro Z28.

It won't matter.

If you really want to break it in (hard), hook up a 10,000 lb trailer and head for the steepest mountain you can find. I'd make 10-20 trips at WOT up the mountain (stopping only to fill up with gas). Do not use the T/H mode (that way if you forget later - after the break in - your engine and transmission won't care).



Sorry tradosaurus, but IMHO this is the worst advice I've read in a while.

BTW, is the 2010 your first truck?
If you read the owners manual even Ford says to vary your speed for the first 1,000 miles.

I'm just varying it a lot harder.

But read the link I gave before you give your opinion.

I'll let you know how my truck turns out in 800 more miles!
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by tradosaurus
If you read the owners manual even Ford says to vary your speed for the first 1,000 miles.

I'm just varying it a lot harder.

But read the link I gave before you give your opinion.

I did. Driving it like you stole it or how you intend on using it in the future (towing 10k lbs) is a lot different than varying your speed (or not maintaning a constant speed for long distances).

I'll let you know how my truck turns out in 800 more miles!
I highlighted the important part of the last sentence. It's your truck. If you want to beat the heck out of it, go for it. All I'm saying is that you can't equate a Z28 with an F150 and use the same break in strategy.



Not to mention this thread is about the OP's transmission and potential issues, not the break in period.

Start your own thread.
 
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