engine bay smoking hot
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2010
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engine bay smoking hot
[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]Should the bulkhead in front of the radiator be to hot 
to touch after only a couple of mins? I have a 78 with a 351m in it and it gets extremely hot in the front end of the motor. I'm thinking the motor hasn't ever been torn down. Where should I start looking? I put a new 192 degree thermostat in, Performer 400 intake, cleaned the water passages going from the heads to the intake as they were all but closed with rust, new hoses, removed the vacuum lines except the 2 going to the PVC (then to the distributor on the center port) on the block for the manifold and ported vacuum from the carb. Also put in a new DS2 module. I bought the truck 3 weeks ago so I have no real history on it. It never seems to overheat according the temp gauge, even with the A/C going at idle for more than an hour.
to touch after only a couple of mins? I have a 78 with a 351m in it and it gets extremely hot in the front end of the motor. I'm thinking the motor hasn't ever been torn down. Where should I start looking? I put a new 192 degree thermostat in, Performer 400 intake, cleaned the water passages going from the heads to the intake as they were all but closed with rust, new hoses, removed the vacuum lines except the 2 going to the PVC (then to the distributor on the center port) on the block for the manifold and ported vacuum from the carb. Also put in a new DS2 module. I bought the truck 3 weeks ago so I have no real history on it. It never seems to overheat according the temp gauge, even with the A/C going at idle for more than an hour.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 457
Likes: 7
From: Decatur, AL
Mark, had the same problem with my 360. Changed out the sender to make sure i was getting good readings. if you have an air bubble still in the block, or are low on coolant you could have a faulty reading.
went back and stepped down to the 180 t-stat as well. and you can always get a good coolant flush and clean it out. seems like a very reasonable idea since you just got the truck.
went back and stepped down to the 180 t-stat as well. and you can always get a good coolant flush and clean it out. seems like a very reasonable idea since you just got the truck.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2010
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I've always worked on Torino's, Mustang's, Ranchero's etc. The only midland block I worked on was in my Ranchero and the heat from it was nothing like this one.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2010
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Mark, had the same problem with my 360. Changed out the sender to make sure i was getting good readings. if you have an air bubble still in the block, or are low on coolant you could have a faulty reading.
went back and stepped down to the 180 t-stat as well. and you can always get a good coolant flush and clean it out. seems like a very reasonable idea since you just got the truck.
went back and stepped down to the 180 t-stat as well. and you can always get a good coolant flush and clean it out. seems like a very reasonable idea since you just got the truck.
Good idea, I read somewhere on the board of someone using CLR instead of the radiator rust cleaner. What do you think? It sure would clean the cooling system out. I'm kind of leery about being that aggressive.
Mark
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 457
Likes: 7
From: Decatur, AL
Prestone has a great coolant passage cleaner, it also has some lube in it so it wont eat your seals in the water pump up. CLR? May work fine but i havent done it or know anyone that has. I like the aggressive cleaners that are automotive based, but dont leave them in too long. Better to make two lite runs at crud elimination than damage a head gasket or water pump.
Over the years i have seen guys put a strong crud buster in the block AND DRIVE FOR DAYS BEFORE REMOVING IT!!! Then i get a water pump and/or head gasket sale, maybe even a t-stat sale too. i say "if it aint broke, dont fix it." a lil common sense and you can clean the crud out and still not have to invest in a new water pump. then again, if you are planning on replacing all that anyway, go for it!
Over the years i have seen guys put a strong crud buster in the block AND DRIVE FOR DAYS BEFORE REMOVING IT!!! Then i get a water pump and/or head gasket sale, maybe even a t-stat sale too. i say "if it aint broke, dont fix it." a lil common sense and you can clean the crud out and still not have to invest in a new water pump. then again, if you are planning on replacing all that anyway, go for it!
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