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Dylan what you are missing is that you have to install and modify parts with any of these engines to make the power you want and that costs money. How fast do you want to spen?
What all mods are needed on the parts?
I'm alright with settling for 540-560ft-lbs at this point...
The cummins is fine with just studs and gaskets to 50+lbs boost and the bosch mechanical pump will pump enough fuel for stage 2s and needed and deffinatly get a bigger hairdryer for it or with the pump up you will smoke a hilacious amount a cool idea is twin idi ats turbos would be sweet and not to bad on the $ and look mean and would spool quick or twin idi hypermaxes just my 2 cents these mods would set you about 600hp and some strong torque
Well I would start with the block cooked out, then magnafluxed.
Same for the heads, even the replacements.
Probably need to check the line bore of the crank and cam.
If you need to bore the block, then you need new oversized pistons.
How many miles on the cam and lifters in there now?
A whole lot cheaper and easier to change while you have it out and tore down than do it next year.
Oil pump, I would change that as well while it is apart.
Head gaskets, valley pan, and complete overhaul gasket set, close to 300 dollars.
Paint, miscellaneous this and that while putting it back in, couple hundred dollars.
That Power Stroke, well if you have the complete donor truck, not just the engine, you may get it in cheaper.
But if you have to buy sensors, throttle pedal, injector driver module, or the computer and the related wiring, you will be burning that money.
250 HP and 500 ft pounds at the crank on the 99 PSD, so you are still going to be spending money on mods to get where you want to be.
1200 for a complete running Cummins ready to drop in and run, don't see that happening either unless salvage yard parts are a lot cheaper there than they are here.
And you will still be short of your HP and torque numbers untill you throw more money at it.
When I built my engine, four ...almost five years ago I had right at 3000 dollars at the machine shop.
I bought most of my internal engine parts through them, they got better prices than I did.
I still spent around 2000 on gaskets, seals, paint, rebuilt turbo, injectors, IP, head studs, oil, filters, antifreeze and things like that.
And like I said before, I pulled my own engine, tore it down, cleaned it up, hauled the parts that needed to go there to the machine shop, picked them up, did the complete assembly and then put it back in the truck.
So there are no labor charges at all in that price, just my time.
Well I would start with the block cooked out, then magnafluxed.
Same for the heads, even the replacements.
Probably need to check the line bore of the crank and cam.
Whats cooking it? And thats a good idea...
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
If you need to bore the block, then you need new oversized pistons.
I wouldn't do that on an IDI, I'd sleeve it or get a new block. To thin of walls isn't it? Either way it is expensive.
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
How many miles on the cam and lifters in there now?
A whole lot cheaper and easier to change while you have it out and tore down than do it next year.
202,000mi
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
Oil pump, I would change that as well while it is apart.
Head gaskets, valley pan, and complete overhaul gasket set, close to 300 dollars.
Paint, miscellaneous this and that while putting it back in, couple hundred dollars.
I was planning on the oil pump, never looked up cost though.
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
That Power Stroke, well if you have the complete donor truck, not just the engine, you may get it in cheaper.
But if you have to buy sensors, throttle pedal, injector driver module, or the computer and the related wiring, you will be burning that money.
That's all auto wrecker stuff, except for maybe the ECU (which I have, but want a different one - $120 on ebay). I have most if not all the sensors. I also have all under hood wiring, but need some under dash wiring. The rest I will do custom. I want to make it a stand alone system before dropping it in.
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
250 HP and 500 ft pounds at the crank on the 99 PSD, so you are still going to be spending money on mods to get where you want to be.
SCT Tuner on 120hp tune + big boost mod = ~550ft-lbs RWTQ right? And cost totals under $500... that's close.
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
1200 for a complete running Cummins ready to drop in and run, don't see that happening either unless salvage yard parts are a lot cheaper there than they are here.
And you will still be short of your HP and torque numbers untill you throw more money at it.
So far from what everyone's said, it wouldn't take more than $1500 to make a Cummins put those numbers out.
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
When I built my engine, four ...almost five years ago I had right at 3000 dollars at the machine shop.
I bought most of my internal engine parts through them, they got better prices than I did.
That's a lot... hopefully I wouldn't have to spend that much! At that point I wouldn't rebuild the IDI unless I had a lot of money to burn.
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
I still spent around 2000 on gaskets, seals, paint, rebuilt turbo, injectors, IP, head studs, oil, filters, antifreeze and things like that.
That part I get.. although I really didn't think much about the fluids and stuff.
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
And like I said before, I pulled my own engine, tore it down, cleaned it up, hauled the parts that needed to go there to the machine shop, picked them up, did the complete assembly and then put it back in the truck.
So there are no labor charges at all in that price, just my time.
Sounds like you must have a hell of a motor now though! Hows she run?
Originally Posted by wreckinball
so what would your hp and tq be even if just an estimate? do you think that for less than 5k you could get a 6bt and have it out power your engine?
Your probably talking to Dave, but...
Aprox. 225hp/435ft-lbs (flywheel), and a solid yes haha
If I could find a place to dyno my truck in Reno, I'd do it.
Anyone know where a diesel dyno is in Reno?
On another note, there's a few PSD for sale on CL for $1500 or less. Not running of course. But that would serve the purpose. To bad I don't have it right now
Yeah i was asking dave so we can see if 5 grand is worth the "self" rebuild on an IDI or should 5 grand be spent on a 6bt rebuild. Stock the two motors have some minor adjustments that can produce more power but with some simple fuel mods to a Cummins you can get a stoopid amount of power haha. I dont know, seems like there is some merit to a 6 cylinder that can out run our trucks, granted the 1st gens and up are turboed and ford didnt get it till 93-94 but which way should a guy go to get the most "bang" for his buck, 5 grand into an engine that cant go too heavy in the boost dept or 5 grand into a truck that you can throw some serious power into. Im not jumping ship but when my trucks engine dies, i might just venture this way. Tell you what though, the new cummins engines are so friggin quiet i couldnt believe it, same with ford. haha sounds like a gasser at idle, if you can hear it! haha
Yeah i was asking dave so we can see if 5 grand is worth the "self" rebuild on an IDI or should 5 grand be spent on a 6bt rebuild. Stock the two motors have some minor adjustments that can produce more power but with some simple fuel mods to a Cummins you can get a stoopid amount of power haha. I dont know, seems like there is some merit to a 6 cylinder that can out run our trucks, granted the 1st gens and up are turboed and ford didnt get it till 93-94 but which way should a guy go to get the most "bang" for his buck, 5 grand into an engine that cant go too heavy in the boost dept or 5 grand into a truck that you can throw some serious power into. Im not jumping ship but when my trucks engine dies, i might just venture this way. Tell you what though, the new cummins engines are so friggin quiet i couldnt believe it, same with ford. haha sounds like a gasser at idle, if you can hear it! haha
Oh ok, and I second that! Except after thinking about it, I'd kinda rather put a PSD in rather than a Cummins, but idk...
Oh ok, and I second that! Except after thinking about it, I'd kinda rather put a PSD in rather than a Cummins, but idk...
international is a great motor, and cummins doesnt do much for me BUT the cummins swap is just easier, being mechanical and all. now, once you tap into 94+ cummins then your computer controlled then its tit for tat then. same electronic issues except the fact that your able to put ford/international parts back in ford so less fit and function issues.
theres a 92 with 70,000 mile cummins for sale right now on my cl for 1200 dang good deal comes with everything id like to get it but would rather get new can am atv
international is a great motor, and cummins doesnt do much for me BUT the cummins swap is just easier, being mechanical and all. now, once you tap into 94+ cummins then your computer controlled then its tit for tat then. same electronic issues except the fact that your able to put ford/international parts back in ford so less fit and function issues.
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