Dead battery
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7,669
Likes: 13
From: San Jose, CA
Dead battery
I drove the Panel for a few miles over the weekend. I came home and parked it. Then needed to move it closer to the fence in the driveway. The truck would crank over, but not enough power to start. I have a 6v Optima battery. I thought it was fuel related, so I let it sit for some time. Came back to start it and same thing, not enough cranking power.
Out comes out a spare 6v battery. Changed the batteries and the truck started immediately. Checked the wires at the generator and no power going into it. Checked the voltage regulator and it has power coming in, but not going out. I'm thinking that it's the voltage regulator. It's an Eichlin brand that was installed before I bought the truck over six years ago. My grounds were cleaned before the previous battery was installed and I had all new cables made. The wiring is also new.
I'm hoping that it's the regulator, because it would be a cheap and easy fix. The generator would cost about $125-150 to rebuild and I'm starting to run low on the Panel truck fund.
Out comes out a spare 6v battery. Changed the batteries and the truck started immediately. Checked the wires at the generator and no power going into it. Checked the voltage regulator and it has power coming in, but not going out. I'm thinking that it's the voltage regulator. It's an Eichlin brand that was installed before I bought the truck over six years ago. My grounds were cleaned before the previous battery was installed and I had all new cables made. The wiring is also new.
I'm hoping that it's the regulator, because it would be a cheap and easy fix. The generator would cost about $125-150 to rebuild and I'm starting to run low on the Panel truck fund.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Hey Ilya, do you have a meter or gauge that will measure amperage up to 50 Amps DC?
If so there is a procedure where you can bypass the regulator and take raw output off the generator to test if the generator is working.
To test the output of the generator with generator on the engine: Disconnect the generator "ARM" and "FIELD" wires. Connect a jumper wire from the generator "ARM" terminal to the generator "FIELD" and the negative lead of a 0 to 50 ammeter to the generator "ARM" terminal.
Start the engine and immediately connect the ammeter positive lead to the battery. Run the engine at 1500 rpm and read the current output on the ammeter. The generator output should reach or exceed 35 Amperes (60 amperes an 8BA-10002-C generator).
If it does, then the generator is good, and you need to replace or adjust your regulator. If it doesn't then the generator is bad.
If so there is a procedure where you can bypass the regulator and take raw output off the generator to test if the generator is working.
To test the output of the generator with generator on the engine: Disconnect the generator "ARM" and "FIELD" wires. Connect a jumper wire from the generator "ARM" terminal to the generator "FIELD" and the negative lead of a 0 to 50 ammeter to the generator "ARM" terminal.
Start the engine and immediately connect the ammeter positive lead to the battery. Run the engine at 1500 rpm and read the current output on the ammeter. The generator output should reach or exceed 35 Amperes (60 amperes an 8BA-10002-C generator).
If it does, then the generator is good, and you need to replace or adjust your regulator. If it doesn't then the generator is bad.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Basically it entails bending up or down the rests that support the metal tabs that raise and lower the contact points.
Here's a pic of the two different 50-51 regulators. Im not sure if your 52 is the same - probably:
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