top shelf single malt eh??...great choice!
I know you deserve it after all the work you did trying to track the problem.
Glad you worked it out....always good to hear.
Glad you reported the fix.
I remember reading the previous post and didn't have a clue.
I probably would have turned to the single malt at that point...

 

NICE! 'Bout time, I say. Internal and partial PCM issue... its a new one for me. Would love to have a schematic for the PCM so I could scope the one you had and find out exactly what all had "died" inside.

 

GS, please see the information on the ecmtogo.com site.

Here is my experience.

Contact:
Sent email. No reply.
Called and Johnny explained the process.
Fill out the form on the website. Print two copies. Put one in with your PCM and send it to them. Send no money.
When it is repaired they call and get credit card info for $195 plus shipping.
If not repairable they probably have one for $295-325.

Causes of failure:
After repair I talked with Johnny again who is the owner and is a nice, knowledgeable guy. He mentioned that all of the PCMs are failing and faster in the South due to cheap original components especially the capacitors. They are cellulose electrolytic capacitors which after time and heat begin to leak a material that eats into the board and destroys the ways. They hold the signal reference voltage and give a clean signal to the processor. They replaced them with quality ones and repaired my board. Again see their web site for more detail on what they do.

Reassurance:
I mentioned I searched though about fifty at a salvage yard and did not find matching numbers. He replied the numbers must match. Even if they did, that one may have the same issues as mine.

Results:
Not only are the crazy shifting issues gone it shifts better than it ever has in the 40K miles I have owned it. To me it is like new even with 192K miles.

Learned:
There is a way to test continuity of the solenoid pack at the PCM connector which I did not know earlier. If the vehicle has been in the South the PCM is probably being damaged by the leaking capacitors and the sooner it is repaired the more likely it can be repaired.

 

great info for sure. wow.

 

Really good info. Thanks!

 

Has anyone had reverse go out in their Bronco? My Bronco is a 1990 with a 351. I believe the transmission is the E40D.

 

The E4OD tends to just get finicky or completely belch its hydraulic system into the converter and die a bloody mess on the roadside. Losing one gear is not something I've heard or seen often with them.

 

I let a DIYer transmission guy look at the bronco and he thought it might be clutches sticking together because the transmission fluid is black.

 

First, is the cable adjusted so the pointer is near the "R" ? Try moving the shift leaver a little off the 'R" and see if it works.

So the fluid is not red? Does it smell burned? I would suggest dropping the pan and replacing the filter. Clean the pan and the magnet. Be sure the old gasket on the filter neck comes out. Drain the torque converter also. Read on the dipstick for the correct ATF type. You will need about 14 qts. The original rubber pan gasket is usually better than the one that comes with the filter.

If that does not correct it I would replace the MLPS. It can be tested but easier when it is on the bench.

 

So b4hntn, to drain the TC I would have to take the transmission out correct? I don't have a place or the tools to do that.

 

Nope. Disconnect the coil wire. Use either a remoter starter button hooked to the starter solenoid or a helper turning the key. Remove the rubber plug on the bottom of the bell housing. Then bump the starter just a VERY little at a time until the torque converter rotates the drain plug down to you. Can't remember but it might take a 7/16 socket.

Today's new vehicles do not have this handy feature.

 

I'm glad you were able to track this and shared this valuable info.

 

Thanks for all the kudos from those better at this than me.

A couple of final thoughts that may help those with similar shifting and code 622 issues.

1. Both of my replaced solenoid packs resistance checked fine when I found the specs. after it was all done. The connector has five pins on one side. Putting the meter on one of the end (Maybe the ground or hot) ones and any of the others gave readings of 20.3 to 20.5 ohms which is within the 20-30 ohm specifications. I am going to auction them on line if none of you need one.

The other side of the connector has four pins with a space in the middle. A pair on the end showed 4.6 ohms which is within 4.0-6.5 specs for the electronic pressure control. I am guessing the other pair on that side is for the temp. sensor.

If I had it do it over again I would disconnect the connector from the (computer), PCM and test the pins connected to the solenoid pack for the above specs. Use a 10mm socket on the long bolt in the center.

2. If the above passes you may not need a transmission fluid shower or two. Remove the PCM. Remove the nuts above and below it to remove the grommet holding it in. It slides forward about half way out. Disconnect the rear half of the inner fender from the fender. Stick a 1X2 or something between the two and pry the inner fender until the PCM can be removed. Open the PCM. Holding it with the connector toward you, the capacitor that etched into my board was the one on the right closest to me. They look like three little beer cans. Even if you do not smell nor see anything suspicious send it to Ford GM ECU ECM PCM TCU Lexus Toyota Honda Acura repair used Mitsubishi because it will fail eventually and probably already has failing components.

Now for the "Viva la Bronco resurrection run" with trailer to the deer lease Sunday. Git 'yer guns up!