Wondering if a friction modifier increases or decreases friction?

I understand my Dr. Tranny shudder fixx installed today may not last long. Thinking about...
LUBEGARD Highly Friction Modified ATF Supplement

Thoughts please.

 

It increases friction with heat, that's why a limited slip is a limited slip.

 

The problem returns...I drove around the neighborhood this morning and was so excited with the shifts. However, I went to the highway and it started jumping again.

Tac was jumping up again like going to neutral a split second. I gently depressed the brake while it was jumping and there was no change. Then the tac went to zero with a dead engine. I always carry my code reader and got my old nightmare 211 PIP for the first time in a year and a new one, 622 shift solenoid circuit 2 failed. I replaced ICM with my spare and it finally started 15 minutes later so doubt if 211 was the ICM.

I left it with an ambulance fleet shop manager who has been a Ford service manager. He soups up 'stangs on the side and offered to help me. I left him a note suspecting either MLPS or solenoid.

 

Tac was jumping up again like going to neutral a split second. I gently depressed the brake while it was jumping and there was no change. Then the tac went to zero with a dead engine. I always carry my code reader and got my old nightmare 211 PIP for the first time in a year and a new one,

Given those facts, I would suspect the distributor. OBD I codes are for emissions diagnostic.

 

Update...The mechanic diagnosed it as the solenoid pack as I expected. He is swamped with business so I decided to do it the FTE way DIY. I have also searched the F-150 and transmission forums and they confirmed to check connectors first then replace solenoid assy. There are connectors below the master cylinder and a leaking cruise control (fire causing) switch may have dripped on it and caused this symptom. Not the case with me.

Since I could find nothing on how to replace the solenoid here is what I have experienced so far...
1. Remove the connector shield on the passenger side/rear corner of transmission. Soak then loosen the two bolts a round or two then slide the shield up then rearward to remove it.
2. Disconnect connector going straight up. Inspect. If good, order solenoid assembly. BEFORE YOU ORDER...IMPORTANT. Connector with two tabs is a 94 and prior solenoid assembly. Connector with one tab is a 95 and later one. I don't recall who said they moved a diode from the solenoid pack to the PCM in 95 thus different connections.
3. I ordered from bulkparts.com today and have the fluid, filter and drain plug kit ready. Rather than chancing warping the pan with welding, I bought a B&M Automatic Drain Plug Kit which just bolts in a 1/2 inch hole. I think I will put some black RTV on it also. The next time I drop the pan I hope it will be several years from now. By then I may be too old to wrestle the pan full of fluid to replace the filter. I will also drain the torque converter and add LubeGuard ATF Protectant.

To be continued when done...

 

Solenoid pack was installed today. I'll road test tomorrow. Haynes shows the bolts torque at 80-100 in/lbs. They are Torx T-30. I bought a $20 torque wrench and set it at 90 in/lbs. I put the drain plug on the rear slope of the lowest point in the pan because I don't want it to catch on anything. The purpose is to eliminate the ATF shower and drive way mess. I'll change filters until I get too old.

I did not raise it at all but I think I will use ramps next time.

Only the pan needs to be removed and connector as mentioned previously. The solenoid assembly is right there. Gasket above it stayed.

Pictures to follow when I get time.

 

E4OD solenoid

 

Top view of solenoid assy

 

New drain shown in relation to filter. Magnet is donut shaped. Remember to be sure old filter gasket is removed when replacing filter. New one is shown on the neck.

 

Not wanting to get too far from home, I did two twenty mile road tests and fluid level additions this morning. It looks like the solenoid pack fixed it. I'll try again this afternoon when it is a little warmer then 62. Thanks everyone for the help.

 

Like new now. I put 1500 lbs. on the trailer and went to the deer lease. It shifts like new with only 191K.

 

How much did the repairs/parts cost?.

 

Solenoid assy delivered to my door from bulkpart.com $220
Filter $17
14 qts regular ATF, I don't remember cost
LubeGuard, Red bottle $10
Torque wrench $20
Dielectric greese and electrical cleaner
Drain plug, don't remember.
Approx $340 is much better than a $2300 rebuilt plus labor.

In addition to returning third gear, now I can actually feel the shifts in all gears which I read is good. Previously, the only way to know shifts was to look at the tac.

 

This all sounds like I should rather have an E4OD than the slipping old AOD I have now.

 

EEC-IV computers (sometimes referred to as OBD-I) produce fault codes for the engine fuel delivery, spark timing, throttle metering, exhaust gas content AND every 600-series Code is an E4OD diagnostic code!

Why is it so damned hard for people to accept that incomplete information is as bad if not worse than mis-information?!