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302 Rebuild

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Old Feb 24, 2003 | 04:09 PM
  #16  
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302 Rebuild

I am definately looking at going with the GT-40 heads. I am also forced to get a new intake because the one that was on the engine i am now rebuilding needed to be taken off to use on the engine in my current truck, that is why i'm looking at going with a new intake and T-body as well as new heads. Basically i'm in need of replacing several parts. I'm going to be tearing down the engine soon and will know for sure what parts are shot. I am almost positive the rings are stuck and the heads are cracked.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2003 | 04:10 PM
  #17  
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ouch!
 
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Old Feb 24, 2003 | 04:15 PM
  #18  
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I wouldn't spend $500 for an Edelbrock intake. Get a 5.0 truck one from a junkyard for <$75. They flow about the same. A twin 56mm TB is plenty large also for a 302.

Good luck and I hope I have been of some help.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2003 | 04:16 PM
  #19  
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hit man you should check out that issue of Muscle mustangs and fast fords, you might be suprized!
 
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Old Feb 24, 2003 | 04:23 PM
  #20  
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Squig, what is that mag article gonna tell me? Recepies for power? I know what works for me and what I have seen work. I am not trying to be a smart a.ss, I am actually wondering.

Like Cobra intake, GT-40 iron heads, e-cam, LTs, off road h-pipe, and a cat back make about 280rwhp? I know what works where.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2003 | 04:29 PM
  #21  
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Ouch is right, I'm hoping to start pulling parts off of it this weekend. I'm very curious to find out how much damage the engine has and especially curious to find out what the pistons look like. HitManX I'll probably take your advise and look into an intake from a Junk Yard. Do you think i should stick with the factory cam? I dont want to upgrade to much because of the speed density computer.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2003 | 04:49 PM
  #22  
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The stock cam is laughably small at like 183/190 dur <.400" lift! I can't remember the exact specs, I just remember it is really, really tiny. A 5.0HO cam is nice, but there are better truck cams around. I like a split duration better. Look for a decent cam like a 208/214 or a 214/220 for even more power. MAKE SURE you stick with a cam with a 114LSA for less vac and idle problems.

I dunno if you have a roller 5.0 block. I think Ford went that way in 1994. You should be able to easily convert a non roller 5.0 block to a roller with minimal effort. I heard all the late model 5.0's in trucks are roller blocks but most fitted with flat tappet cams. I'd do a roller lifter conversion too.

Don't be scared of Speed Density, 2FastLightning (I think that is his handle) has an 11sec supercharged SD truck. Get a good chip made and you'll be fine. Did you know most fast TPI Camaros and 'Vettes are SD? Why, it is easier to tune there. For some reason you are limited on their MAF setup. Fords is much more mod friendly.

You may also want to buy an adj fuel pressure reg to fine tune you EFI setup.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2003 | 04:50 PM
  #23  
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302 Rebuild

YOUR FULL OF YOURSELF OLD MAN!
 
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Old Feb 24, 2003 | 05:32 PM
  #24  
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From the sounds of it i have a roller block with a flat tappet cam, I originally started out planning on putting a new cam in it and now i'm going back and forth over the idea. It would be nice to do but i'm worried about running into problems with the computer that will cause a lot of headache.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2003 | 06:01 PM
  #25  
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302 Rebuild

sorry lost my temper up there^ umm... as it looks It says that, stock is tell if this is right

Power Range: 250HP
Displacement: 302 Cid
Bore: 4.00
Stroke: 3.0
Pistons: Stock (cast aluminum??)
Forged: No
Compression: 9.2:1
Rods: Stock
Forged: No
Heads: Stock 5.0
Aluminum: No
Iron: Yes
Porting: None
Intake valve: 1.78inch
Exhuast: 1.45 inch
Upper Intake: Stock 5.0HO
Posted: No
Lower Intake: Stock 5.0HO
Ported: No
Throttle Body: Stock 58mm
Injector Size: 19lbs/hr.
MAF: Stock
Custom Chip: No
Ignition: Stock
Header: Stock late model 5.0L
Header Size: N/A
Cam Type: Hydraulic/solid roller stock 5.0
Int lift: .444
Ex Lift: .444
Int Duration Deg: 276@.006
Ext Duration Deg: 266@.006
Lobe Sep: 116
Rockers: Stock
Ratio: 1.6:1
Exhaust: Full w/catbacks @ mufflers
Actual HP: 250Hp@4800RPM
Actual Torque: 322lbs-ft.@2900RPM

Wow! Not bad for a completely stock motor, except for the exhaust everything is basically stock... Now tell me hitman what would you nail first to get 50 HP, tell what you change and Ill tell you what this says, and we will compare.... My apologies,
 
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Old Feb 25, 2003 | 09:13 AM
  #26  
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If i am looking at that right, it appears as though i would already have a roller cam installed in this engine. I will obviously know forsure when i pull it apart this weekend.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2003 | 01:51 PM
  #27  
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302 Rebuild

Hey hit man, I agree with you on the intake. The ford truck 5.0
intake may be hard to improve on for a mid ranger with good low end. Looks like quite a few mods for speed density EFI.
What do you think? I think a mass air conversion may be in
order.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2003 | 02:37 PM
  #28  
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I want to do all i can to keep the mods down so i dont need to go with a mass air conversion, so i'll stick with the stock intake and probably add a T-body, the more i think about it i'm not going to go with much of a cam increase just slight, GT40 heads and some new pistons and rings because all those parts on the current engine are shot.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2003 | 04:51 PM
  #29  
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302 Rebuild

Squig, those specs are right minus the cam. Truck cams are made for low and mid power...or lack there of. Up until 1993 5.0 stangs had forged pistons for some reason. I lose my temper too
don't worry.

I'd go to a full exhaust, cold air, and swap the intake manifold on a Stang. Bump timing and fuel and pullies. Next heads/cam.


Fordmech, personally I'd go with a MAF kit. They are pricy at >$600. They are a bit easier to tune, but a chipped SD setup works too.

Border, at least get a stock 5.0 cam. There will be more power than a stock 5.0 truck cam.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2003 | 04:53 PM
  #30  
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Perfect, i'll look at going with a stock 5.0 cam and not a truck cam. I'd do the Mass air but i dont have money to put into that at this point in time, with needing new heads, pistons, rings, and the list goes on
 
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