You never want to try to run a continuous bead when welding sheetmetal unless you are trying to make a contour map or a steel drum, it will warp that badly.

 

All other types of electric welding i.e. stick or TIG you have to hold the electrode back a certain distance from the surface to create the arc. With MIG the electrode is SUPPOSED to touch the metal so it's a no brainer. Set the amperage and wire feed speed according to the chart printed on the machine based on metal and wire thickness (use thin wire .025 for thin metal 16 ga or thinner, thicker wire .030 -.035 for thicker material) as said use shielding gas and solid wire not flux core wire. Put the end of the wire touching where you want to weld, press the trigger and you are welding. It's as easy as that! Practice butt welding some 18 ga sheet to find the angle and speed that gives a good bead and penetration while not getting ahead or behind the wire feed speed (can be fine tuned). Once you have that down see what the difference is when you push or pull the bead. Once you have that mastered then work on fillet welds, filling holes 5/16" or smaller and finally vertical welds (hint: start at the bottom and work up). In a weekend or two at the most you'll be ready to start welding on your truck with confidence.

 

Ain't it great too have a truck that is made out of real metal. I have been welding for 30 years. stick /mig/tig. I would tell people i can weld anything from a BROKEN heart too the CRACK of dawn. So in my world there are welders and there are rod burners. That looks good to me !!!! FIRE HOT SEX HOTTER. LOL

 

Thanks for the info I have been looking for metal for my 52

 

My only disappointed was they didn't have the rear cab corners as well, went with EMS (EMS-86L, driver side) for the one I needed.

Seen a couple of the antique ford sites selling their skins (at a mark-up), go to the source

 

I'll back up that - I taught myself mig welding in a weekend after reading a book and a quick look at a dvd explanation!!