spedo problem on 94
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spedo problem on 94
okay i just picked up a 94 bronco xlt with a 302. the spedo isnt working and the tranny shifts hard im guessing from the spedo sensor not sending signal. so where the spedo sensor located at?
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From: Gateway to the West
The VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) is located in the top of the rear differential housing. It is held in place by a single bolt.
Sometimes these issues can be resolved by removing and cleaning off the VSS and putting it back again.
No matter whether you replace or just clean the sensor. Make certain you clear the fault codes from the on-board computer before running the truck again. This will ensure the computer is not in limp mode and that the computer is running with full control over the entirety of the truck's systems.
Sometimes these issues can be resolved by removing and cleaning off the VSS and putting it back again.
No matter whether you replace or just clean the sensor. Make certain you clear the fault codes from the on-board computer before running the truck again. This will ensure the computer is not in limp mode and that the computer is running with full control over the entirety of the truck's systems.
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sweet thanks i figured it would be fairly easy to get to. i just didnt figure it would be in the rear diff. yeah she didnt like to shift, it was shifting more off of pressure than computer...lol i laughed and told my buddy who was following me it must be a bucking bronco edition...once it was up to speed it drove like a dream. i'll have to borrow a scanner to clear out the codes.
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From: Gateway to the West
It is in the rear diff. for two reasons. It sends speed information to the main computer and cruise control system but it also acts as the wheel slip sensor for the ABS. So it has to be back there.
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huh interesting. im surprised they didnt use sensors in the wheels with an excitor ring. but i got it working but i have 2 massive brake line leaks so i cant really test it out other than about 3mph...lol but i reconected everything for the sensor
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From: Gatineau, Quebec
You can clear the codes by simply disconnecting the battery for five minutes.
Also, in case you were unaware, you do not need a code reader to pull codes on Broncos/F-series before 96.
You can find out how to pull the codes here Ford Fuel Injection How To Run a Self-Test
Hope this helps
Also, in case you were unaware, you do not need a code reader to pull codes on Broncos/F-series before 96.
You can find out how to pull the codes here Ford Fuel Injection How To Run a Self-Test
Hope this helps
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i yanked the batt. i forgot about the self test mode. i didnt know the 94's had that option. but i guess anything with the digital odometer will do that. i was hopeing to get to test the trans out to make sure its just not toasted. but with zero brakes that will not be a good idea. looks like i get to make some brake lines...oh what fun. i do hate how low it sits to the ground in compairison to my highboy. least with the 73 i could sit up under the back half of the truck....i had to do lines on a 95 f150 2wd last summer, and it sucked...my crossover line in the front is leaking as is the line right above the back brake hose.
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Lead Driver
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From: Gateway to the West
The excitor ring is all the VSS uses to send ALL of the information to the various systems. The VSS is nothing more than an optical reader (like the wheel sensors used on the front wheels. It sends pulses back the the various computers and systems which varies with vehicle speed because it "counts" (pulses) each time another gap in the ring goes by. The EEC computer determines velocity, the PSOM determines speedometer and odometer information and the ABS computer take information from the VSS and the EEC computer to determine wheel slip based upon known engine RPM (and consequently the corresponding axle RPM) at given speeds. The ABS kicks in if the computer gets fewer pulses than if "should" from the VSS at the speed the vehicle is currently moving. The excitor rings and sensors at the front wheels do the same thing.
As for the code clearing... All EEC-IV equipped models can have the codes cleared that way... going back to as early as 1985 for some trucks.
As for the code clearing... All EEC-IV equipped models can have the codes cleared that way... going back to as early as 1985 for some trucks.
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From: Gateway to the West
The gains with rear discs are negligible. The time and effort spent on the project won't really gain you enough additional stopping power to be worth the effort and you will then have FOUR wheels to clean brake dust off all the time.
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i hardly towed with my f250...lol so i doubt i'll do much with this. at least for now. right now im chaning 2 of the 3 brake lines...oh what fun. my driver side front hose rusted where it passes through the frame into the shock tower. and my rear line right at the rear crossmember. this job was a lot easier when i did it on the highboy...lol i also found out my right front radius rod mount is rusted...looks like i'll be getting in touch with rough country sooner than i thought. good thing mine are bolted on, makes life easier than having to grind and torch them out. oh the joys of buying old trucks... lol
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okay so i got the brakes fixed on her took her for a spin...stops awsome btw. so my spedo works perfect, and the trans shifts...well pretty smooth. im really use to my old c6 behind a 390...so by comparison this thing shifts like a lincoln... so now i've got that stupid intermitten rough idle. it will flash the check engine light for maybe one second then it goes off. im thinking i need to clean the IAC with some brake clean. and i may look into that idle plate deal withe the adjuster screws so many others have gotten. but its odd. it will act like its not getting any throttle input when im speeding up. then with out doing anything the damn thing takes off. kind of like a bad fuel pump but it will not do it if you put your foot to the floor. so i dont believe it to be a fuel pump issue. damn thing screams if you hammer down.
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From: Gateway to the West
DO NOT adjust the throttle plate stop screw... EVER! Unless you know for a fact that someone else screwed with it, leave it alone! (And if you do need to adjust it to correct someone else's screw up, there is a very precise procedure to resetting it properly). It has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with idle control or air flow through the throttle body. It serves as a stop only... to keep the throttle plates from sticking in the bores when they snap shut. Anyone who tells you otherwise is an idiot.
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oh no not that scew it is on the adapter plate for im guessing the iac ive never seen one but ive seen several posts talk about it. ive wrenched lomg enough to know you dont touch that. this is from a post i saved
"An adapter that looks like a spacer that sandwiches between the TB and IAC that has two hex heads screws for fine idle adjustments.
you can get it at the ford dealer part#F2PZ-9F939-A (KIT-ENGINE IDL) for about $35 bucks."
"An adapter that looks like a spacer that sandwiches between the TB and IAC that has two hex heads screws for fine idle adjustments.
you can get it at the ford dealer part#F2PZ-9F939-A (KIT-ENGINE IDL) for about $35 bucks."