The tow mirrors that came with my truck do not illuminate or signal. I checked the fuse panel on the driver's side, and all fuses looked good. I checked the connections when I had the door panels off, installing billet door handles, and the connections looked fine as well. Is there anything I'm missing or could check. I just thought it was odd that BOTH of them were out vs. one or the other?
Thanks for your ideas...
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What is the specs of your truck? Gotta know what your workin with

 

Agreed, We would need the year truck in order to start looking at the right prints.

 

Sounds like he's talking about the mirrors with turn signals in them, which as far as I remember never came stock on a 7.3... so it sounds like a botched install.

 

Hey Guys it's a 2003 F-250 (looked at his profile)

 

Sorry...as Delx06 stated...
2003 F-250 Lariat 7.3 PSD
Short Bed

The power adjustment works, but not sure about the heated part, and definitely not he turn signals.

 

Sorry Mav, I have nothing for you, but will look around, I only have the 1999-2002 prints, but will look.

 

This might allow you to check voltages in the door, I am still looking for anything else I can find.

Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Victoria Canada
Posts: 772


'03 Mirror Swap - All Done!

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I know some of you have done this mod, and I just finished mine using Bill Boroskey's (the DieselStop) instructions for the basics. I thought some you might appreciate a couple of extra tid-bits.

My truck is an early '03 model shipped with the older mirrors, and once I got into it, I found the factory quick connects in the doors were the new flat style so I didn't need the adapter harness. However, the existing harness only had the three wires for the mirror electrics, so I had to pull some more.

I followed the factory colouring and used 16ga. wire to run power to the lights and heat as follows:

Black = ground
Brown = clearance lights
White = right turn signal
Green = left turn signal
Black/White tracer = heat

Using the factory colour scheme makes this job a lot easier, however, black 16ga. wire with a white tracer was not available through any of the local sources, so I used black Marine grade wire that has "marine grade: insulated for boat use" stamped all along its length in white. This wire is also pre-tinned, so it's silver in colour as opposed to the normal copper colour.

After removing the door panels and dropping the glove box, garbage bag holder and fuse block, I made two 12' harnesses of the appropriate coloured wire and started from the quick connects working back toward the fuse block.

The hardest part of this swap is running the wire harness through the door jamb and post. After fighting with this for quite a while, I pulled both ends of the rubber sheath from the jamb/post and taped the harness to a wooden chopstick. I was able to push the chopstick (blunt pointed end first) through the rubber sheath in seconds.

Remove the fuse block cover and there's lots of access to the appropriate connections.

I used the factory ground connections to the right of this opening to connect my two black ground wires. Make sure everything's grounded before proceeding, or it won't work when you test it.

There is a small taped harness coming from the top of the steering column that gives access to the two signal wires: White/Blue tracer and Green/White tracer. These are the turn signal wires. Use a test light here to be certain you've got the correct wires. I connected my White wire to the White/Blue and my Green to the Green/White.

Pop the headlight switch control panel and connect the Brown (clearance lights) wire to the Brown factory wire.

On the Drivers side rear of the fuse block you'll find a large taped harness that will provide a 14ga. Light Blue/Black tracer wire that supplies power to the drivers window switch when the ignition is on. I spliced a Red 14ga. wire onto this one and ran it to a 30A Bosch relay. To save the time and effort of trying to solder under the dash, I used 14-16ga. wire taps for all the connections under the dash. I also used a five-wire plug for the back of the relay.

Pull the wires from the relay plug, and exchange them for your new power feed (Red) and the two Black/White tracer heat wires.

Mount the relay using the right hand screw that secures the computer connection under the dash and above the throttle. There's a recess in the plastic dash and the relay fits in here perfectly. I then mounted a lighted switch to trigger the relay for the heat using the black and white wires on the relay plug.

I didn't want to cut and solder the connections in the doors, so to install the wires running through the doors and into the factory quick connect harness, I picked up the O.E.M. "male" pins required from Pico (P/N PK150 $6 for a package of ten), crimped them onto the wires and plugged 'em in.

The entire job took about 4.5 hours from removing the old mirrors to the finished product, and I tested and taped each connection as I went along.

Hope this helps anyone considering this in the future. It's a mod well worth the time and effort.

Many thanks to all of you who supplied ideas, and especially to Bill Boroskey for the original post.

Rick
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...99&.jpg'03 F350 SD Supercab XLT 2wd Dually, Long box, V10, Auto, 3.73, Toreador Red, Medium Flint.

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Last edited by Karic; 06-03-2003 at 02:09 PM.

 

Thanks guys...appreciate it.
If I remember right, the plug style was a flat type for the mirrors. I wonder if the former owner just plugged the connectors in and didn't take the time to wire up the lights?

 

Mav,
PM me a e-mail address and I will see if I can get togeather a set of prints for you. And shoot them to you va e-mail.

 

Ding ding ding we have a winner.

 

I would...if only I could find the stinkin' PM button!!
(I know what you're thinking..."If he can't figure out how to send a PM...he'll NEVER be able to fix those mirrors!!" hahaha)

 

Just click on my online name and pick (send privite message to).

 

Got your message e-mail sent

 

If that's the case, here's a good write-up as well with pics.

New Mirror installation