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Hello: I got a new problem. Yesterday morning when I started the truck, while letting it warm up I went inside the house to pickup some thing, came back out and saw fuel leaking from where the fuel filter is. Upon investigation, I found that it is leaking from the outlet side of the fuel filter. i pulled the connection out and there is a metal washer and an O Ring. Replaced the O Ring and connected it back, but fuel still leaks. Also the hose does not snug fit even with the safety clip on it. you can pull on it and it moves about 1/2 a centimeter. Oh there is no internal clip in the hose, It has built in prongs that lock themselves. Even with it being this loose it cannot be pulled out except with that special tool.
Spoke to dealer today and they want me to bring it in to look at it, which ofcourse will end up a few hundred dollars ticket.
What am I missing here? is the entire hose gone bad. I purchased this truck about 3 months ago and a local shop replaced the filter, plugs etc. I can take it back to him but I have to tow the truck there as well.
Please educate me on what is going on here. Thanks in advance.
what seals is a good o-ring on a smooth filter tube. If the filter tube is nicked, it can leak. your right, the teeth inside the fitting hold the fitting onto the filter tube. does not really need a clip. I would do a close exam and see if the filter itself is smooth on the tube area where the o-ring seats.
Thanks
I did checked the filter surface where the ridge is that sits and it appears to be good. Should I go ahead and replace the filter with a Ford one. I am sure this is an after market filter. What do I need to do about the play in the line. It does seems to move back and forth more than the other side, which makes me to believe that there is something else missing in there. while the ignition ON, when I pull on the hose, the fuel spits out. This cannot be right.
What I want to know is this: Does anyone has a knowledge how many washers and O Rings there should be in there. how much movement/play there should be. i can only compare it to the inlet side which is quite snug and does not have any play in it.
Well, if it was mine, I'd change the filter. But also, if it was mine, I'd probably still have the old one laying here, so I'd put that back and see if the leak stops. Since you took your truck elsewhere for that, there's not much choice now. Even buying another filter, and, possibly end up finding out it's the hose end, is still less $$$$ than taking it to the garage again.
Unfortunately, there are a few things that could cause the joint to leak. Under size outlet tube, locking rib in the wrong position, wrong size o-ring (o-rings are pretty critical, they MUST be correct ID/OD. Changing the filter again will eliminate half of the possibilities.
It really sounds like an O-ring issue. The filter tube and the O-ring interlock quite a bit. Even with the travel you describe in the connected joint, the O-ring should still be far enough onto the filter tube to seal.
Bottom line, from Ford, see about the O-rings, with a name brand filter, change that. In the end, both those will be a portion of the dealership's charge to do the same thing. If that doesn't fix it, the hose connector must have been damaged separating the original filter. It's possible to do this with a metal disconnect tool, I always use plastic.
Thanks Dave G. Getting another filter will not be a problem from Ford. I will pick one up tomorrow. I have a box full of assorted O-Rings. Dealer does not sell new O-Rngs. they want me to buy the entire hose that goes all the way to injector rails.
I will follow your instructions and will report back tomorrow night.
OK, your last post mention O-rings that you have already. If you've tried them already, more than likely that is the problem. As I said earlier, O-rings are VERY critical for size. Close enough usually isn't.
I used to run a '68 Mustang hardtop in NHRA A/MP & B/MP. I used a 427 Ford with the 2 4V Holleys. The fuel transfer tubes from the front to the rear fuel bowls had O-rings on each end. So many guys were buying extras that they were always out of stock. So I tried what you are doing. Nothing but leaks ! The rings looked the same, but wouldn't even hold the 8-10 lbs. pressure I used, and you are trying to seal maybe 45 lbs.
You know Dave: i didn't even thought about the O-Ring. That makes perfect sense. Also I will call junk yard tomorrow for a replacement line. There are few around here in Topeka. I will call around to see if I can get one that is decent.
OK, try this first. Find a local auto parts place that handles Dorman products. They have everything for repairing all types of lines/hoses, quick connect included. With some luck there, you may be able to keep the filter you have, and just rebuild the fitting. They should have the correct O-rings.
Well I tried the new O'Ring from Napa (Dorman brand) and that still leaks. so I added two O'rings (I don't know if that is good thing or not) there is still very little seepage.
So now the only option left is to replace the filter.
I guess I'd do the same thing. But like I said earlier, most likely the old one would be around here, so I'd first try that.
Also, Dorman has replacement ends ( short line and the fitting.) I don't think you said which fitting is on yours, either the internal coil spring or the plastic clips ? The fixit part is the plastic clips. If it is compatible with what you have now, maybe try that. Of course, by Murphy's Law, doing the new line end first will most likely not fix it.
Dave: I have internal coil springs but this one is very different than what Doorman sells. It just have three prongs. I took a picture and showed it to all local stores, no one has anything like it or has seen it.
I tried Napa/O'Reilly auto parts store. NAPA gave me Dorman O'Rings which I installed and it still leaks. I used two O'rings back to back and it stays fairly snug but when you pull on the hose, it spits gas.
About the Replacement ends. I have seen ends being sold that would fit on the filter while the flexable fuel hose can fit slip on the other end, but I am not sure if that can fit my truck.
So Monday, I will get the new filter from Ford and try it. This will give me the opportunity to open the other side. If it still leaks then there is something wrong with the hose and it is $197.00 plus tax at stealership. Another $200 probably to install it since it involves taking out the Intake manifold and accessing the injector rails.
It should not be this complicated. This is poor engineering.
You don't have to really get the filter from Ford, just get a Motorcraft or Fram. It does seem peculiar that everything is the same now as it was, before the filter change, and it didn't leak until AFTER the change.