i bought a set of arp head studs and have some questions about the method of the installation. like the order. where do i start? engine is clean for the most part and no longer installed in the truck. 97 f-250

 

Jacob, do you want to install the studs without pulling the heads so you don't have to replace the gasket OR are you going to pull the heads, install new gaskets, then do the studs? There are several ways to go about this, but I am glad to see you are working on it with the engine out of the truck b/c you cannot do them in the truck..

 

yes, i would rather not pull the heads. the seal is good. i would like to find out if there is a specific order or method on doing it.

 

Since you are keeping the heads on just do one bolt at a time.

I would find the torque sequence for the head bolts. Start with the first bolt, remove it, then install the stud. Then move to the second bolt in the sequence, etc...

Then double check them all again after.

You may need to do a "hot re-torque" after the engine is running as well.

 

make sure you check lenghts on the studs when installing around the injectors. when neal and i were installing his we noticed some stuck up a little more then others. the shorter ones go under the injectors

 

Ok... Since you are keeping the heads on the engine you need to start with the 3rd stage, 2nd torque sequence at 95 lb-ft. When you look at the link below you want to use the 2nd sequence. Start at the number one bolt, pull the bolt out, install the stud(make sure it is lubricated correctly), put the washer on bevel side down and install the nut at 95 lb-ft. Then move on to the #2 bolt and do the same thing. once you have done all the studs in that sequence then move on to the final sequence of 120 lb-ft. Once you have done the final then it's a good idea to let everything settle for around 24 hours or so then come back and torque them again to 120 lb-ft. You may get a little more on a couple of the studs.

Check out this link-- http://67.19.132.3/dieselinnovations...stallation.pdf

 

Ok, I was pretty close!

Travis always sets us straight...

 

I thought it was talked about before that you could do this with the motor in the truck?

 

I did mine in the truck and it wasn't too bad. I think I took the transmission crossmeber out to jack the engine up and down, and also had to take the heater box apart, but after that I had plenty of room

 

I'm not to that point yet but that's good to know!

 

Travis, I respectfully disagree with you slightly. Actualy, I half agee and half disagree.

You should use the first sequence pattern but use the torque specs of stages 3 and 4.


What I did is start by removing everything off of the head. All VC harnesses, glow plugs, Injectors, Rocker arms and finally pushrods. (Everything!)
Now take the first sequence pattern. Remove bolt #1. Lube the stud and insert. Torque the stud. Install the nut and washer. Torque that nut to 95 ft.lbs. Loosen the nut and retorque to 120 ft.lbs.

If I remember correctly the manufacturer (ARP) recommends three torque sequences. So I loosened mine and retorqued again to 120 ft.lbs.

Now move to bolt #2 and repeat the process.

Once you are done with all of them I went around using that same pattern and retorqued them again just to be sure. I might have even gave it an extra 10 lbs to 130 ft.lbs. That was my decision.
I never used the second pattern shown in that link at all. I have drag raced my truck, put on a dyno and did 5 runs and even pulled my 15,000 lb. camper thru the mountains here in Tn. several times since then and no problems at all.


Also as ccarrier said be sure to find the 8 studs that are shorter before you start. They are not much shorter maybe 1/8" or so but they are enough to make a difference. Put the short ones under the injectors and you will not have any problems.

This can be done in the truck very easily. I just did it myself not long ago. But I see your engine is out of the truck so strap that engine stand down to something stable and go to it.

Let me know if you need anything else.

 

i have the engine on a stand that i made that uses the motor mounts. its pretty stable cuz i took the manifolds off. the torgue is suposed to be ft. lbs. i purchased their more expensive set rated higher. thanks ya'll for your help.

 

Well then apparently either way works just fine!!! LOL We did H11s the way I said and they worked fine. When I put my H11s in my truck we will be pulling the engine and putting my ported heads on so we will be going through the whole thing so no big deal. We did it that way based on several posts on PSN a good while back. Either way, as long as it works then thats all we need.