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parking brake issues

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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 08:38 PM
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parking brake issues

Took a look at my non working parking brakes this weekend. Found that I have a wheel cylinder that apparently blew out a while back and the previous owner never bothered to check or repair. While in there, found that the drums are gouged to hell and back, so they need to be replaced. I adjusted the drum shoes out so that there was some resistance on each drum. Put it all back together, applied the parking brake, goes to the floor and nothing (keeps rolling).

Got under there tonight, noticed the previous owner had the rear cables hanging down, so I took them apart and pushed them back through the frame like they are supposed to be. Then went to tighten the adjusting nut on the threaded rod, only to find that half-way up the rod is stripped. So, now looks like I need a new front cable. Does anyone know why the parking brakes wouldn't work though? I would figure that they would have at least partially grabbed, considering I had the shoes adjusted out to the drum.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by SparkyRnD
Took a look at my non working parking brakes this weekend. Found that I have a wheel cylinder that apparently blew out a while back and the previous owner never bothered to check or repair. While in there, found that the drums are gouged to hell and back, so they need to be replaced. I adjusted the drum shoes out so that there was some resistance on each drum. Put it all back together, applied the parking brake, goes to the floor and nothing (keeps rolling).

Got under there tonight, noticed the previous owner had the rear cables hanging down, so I took them apart and pushed them back through the frame like they are supposed to be. Then went to tighten the adjusting nut on the threaded rod, only to find that half-way up the rod is stripped. So, now looks like I need a new front cable. Does anyone know why the parking brakes wouldn't work though? I would figure that they would have at least partially grabbed, considering I had the shoes adjusted out to the drum.
Good possibility that the front cable is broken. I had the outer housing on my front cable fail and hurt my foot because it went to the floor so fast. Sounds like your PO didn't take very good care of the truck while he had it. I found that the best thing, if you can, is to fix it with everything new. New drums, shoes, hardware kit, cables, the works. Man, do they work great when you're done. I love it when I take a problem area that has been bothering me and fix it to new condition and it works like new again.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 09:39 PM
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yep, I'm wondering the same thing. Already planned on all new brake components as the first thing, then parking cables, then I'll worry about the drivetrain.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2010 | 09:45 AM
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Ok, got a little more time on the parking brakes today. I ordered the parking brake equalizer rod and threaded rod from LMC, as well as a replacement front cable. Got the front cable installed and routed like this:





The rears are mounted like this:





The problem I have is that my frame and crossmembers don't seem to match the diagrams from LMC. I don't see anything that resembles the image of where I'm suppose to bolt the equalizer rod to. I thought maybe it should bolt to the z bracket shown in this image:




But if I do bolt it to that, the front brake cable can't attach in a straight line and won't apply force properly. The truck is a 1979 F100. Does anyone have a picture showing how it is installed on theirs?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 01:53 AM
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Here's how they're installed.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 02:23 PM
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yep, seen that on a few other posts I found late last night. Determined that either I'm missing the bracket, or it's possible that mine didn't come with that bracket, but rather came with a front cable that had the back end as a threaded rod instead of a ball and cable style. I checked my crossmember, and there are no holes in it where that bracket would mount. My guess is that what was installed previously was possibly correct.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 02:36 PM
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About the only other system used was on the F250/350's. Here's what that system looks like.
Click on the .pdf link to view.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 02:40 PM
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I don't think the truck in question is a 78. I think it is a 76.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 02:45 PM
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steponit, I'm leaning towards it being a 1979 as everything else I've found is 79, not 76. Going to see if I can find the numbers on the pass front frame to confirm. But the point here is that my crossmember doesn't have the bolt holes on the rear face like the one in the image above. Without that, then it obviously didn't come with equalizer bar and bracket from the factory, right? I know I can drill holes and make it all work, no problem. Just trying to find out if there are any other F100's that were like mine without those holes from the factory.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by steponit
I don't think the truck in question is a 78. I think it is a 76.
In post #4 the OP said its a 79 F100.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 02:49 PM
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mike, to be fair to steponit, in other posts it was listed as a 76 with a 79 front clip (based on what seller told me). But as of late, I have found more 1979 stuff around the truck leading me to believe the seller was an idiot and had no idea what the truck really was. I'm going to pull the numbers off the frame to see what year it really is.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 02:52 PM
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If its a '76 the last six digits of the VIN will be between A00,001-D25,000 if a '79 DC0,001-FK9,000.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 02:59 PM
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 02:59 PM
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is it on the top of the frame, the outside or the inside? And it's just forward of the front Ibeams, right?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 03:01 PM
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what I removed was in the top of the second image, steponit.
 
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