Alright so today myself and Strokin_tatsch dug into the ol truck. And here is what we found/did.

We found that all the electrical is fine, the glow plugs are fine. But the injectors need rebuilt. But on the upside of this we got a lot of stuff accomplished on the truck.

CCV mod-check
AIH delete-check
new glow plugs-check
foil delete-check
painted VC's, IC pipes, Spider-check
new air filter-check

The bad part- the majority of the work we did today will have to be redone on all of my H2E stuff when i put new injectors in. At that time i will also be putting on my regulated return, with possibly a new fuel gauge for in cab!!! Oh well for the time being my stuff looks dam good!

And also a big thanks to chris/f350-6 for some trouble shooting help on the phone!

 

You just get the injectors and we will get it done. Injectors don't take long. I will have a new pump before we start in on that though. I still can't believe that 4 of them aren't firing when it's cold...

 

I still can't believe neither one of you had a meter.

How long till you have to send the cores back? If you've got time, take apart a good one and bad one side by side and see what the difference looks like on the guts. And share the photos with the rest of us.

 

How did you determine the sticks were bad? What numbers did or didn't pop up on the scanner that led you that way.

How many miles on the truck?

 

Chris, I have a Fluke, BUT I have never needed to ohm out the GP or injector harnesses before so I didn't know which wires were what and all that fun stuff. I knew which were the GP and injectors, but didn't know which wires to hit to ohm them out. It was easier and faster for me to pull the injectors and swap them around. Only took like 30 extra minutes to swap around the good ones with the bad ones. I have never seen 4 injectors not firing on startup though then all of a sudden fire good once warmed up. Call me dumb or whatever, but now I know which wires to ohm where to diagnose this kind of thing. lol

John, we determined the sticks were bad b/c when we pulled the valve covers and started it after it had been sitting for a long time it only had 4 injectors discharging oil, the other 4 were not discharging anything at all(2 good and 2 bad on each bank). We didn't know if this was a harness problem so we swapped the injectors that were firing with the injectors that weren't and the injectors that didn't fire originally still didn't fire in their new spots.. In other words the no fire followed the injector, didn't stay in the same spot when we moved injectors around. Scanner didn't tell us anything that would lead me to look at the injectors, but you could tell it wasn't running right at all when cold. Obviously when only 4 injectors are firing correctly. LOL. 230,000 miles on the truck

Austin, You should really post the pics of that IPR in here!!! Anyone ever seen a bent IPR?? the one we pulled out of Austin's truck was crooked as heck!! Never seen anything like that either.

 

Thanks Travis.

My truck does the same thing of cranking up and running bad, then running fine once the temp comes up. It's worse in colder weather too. Looks like some injectors need to be ordered. I might as well order some stage 1s and a chip too!

You confirmed what I think my truck is doing, but have yet to have anyone verify it. My mechanic flat refuses to change any injectors because they all check fine as per the scan tool. I checked some stuff with AE a few times before too and it all seems OK. The injectors have buzzed good for me. I like my mechanic's honesty on not wanting to shaft me on parts/labor that I don't need, but neither of us have been able to figure this truck out!

How did these injectors buzz for you guys?

 

John, a few of the injectors buzzed real quiet and a few of them buzzed nice and loud. I didn't like the buzz test of his truck. The sound of each injector didn't sound the same at all.

 

I've had 2 injectors changed in the last 2 years due to them testing bad when he scanned them. Those 2 are loud when I hit them with AE. The other 6 ar not so loud. I'll have to compare the price of a full set of stage 1s vs 6 more stock replacements.

 

The pins on a 7.3 are simple Travis. Center pin is always injector common. Outside pins are glow plugs. That leaves the pins next to injector common as injector pins. On an OBS it's one pin on each side since there are 2 plugs. On the SD, it's just one plug so there are 2 glow plugs and 2 injectors on each side of common.

 

My truck experiences the same problem as well, Its started doing it again since its getting colder out, i switched to the 5w40 syn rotella and that helped... before the syn it would give these issues at temps below 50*F now i can get away with 35* but its fussy even there... I really would like to figure it out... my truck is only reading 150,000 on the clock... but im not sure if its correct due to a shady previous owner... Last year i tried to remedy the problem checking gp's and the gpr, harness all that stuff with no success... so maybe i ought to lean towards checking out the injectors as well... you guys just pulled the valve cover off and cranked the engine over as if you were checking to see if the top end in an old school gas engine was getting oil pressure? except there is a hole in the injector it comes out of?? can you leave the IC pipes off while you do this since they are in the road to get the VC off? If i got this problem solved I would be so happy... I got discouraged at it last year and then it warmed up so it hasnt bothered me till now... I too am guilty of using ether.. what does it hurt that were not suppose to use it? I wait for the GP to click off, and they have been using ether to start diesels for decades... so i thought it would be ok.. lol