Well finally after about a month and half got the turbo shipped and installed in the black dragon. Got some new IC boots too (which of course the new clamps and bottom boot where the wrong size). Installed my oil cooler rebuild and turbo and the ole girl fired right up. Man that's a loud whistle! Whistles all the time at any speed.

One thing I noticed though is at about 1900 to 2000 rpms the engine kinda vibrates. Runs good and strong but vibrates right in that area. Anybody had this problem or experienced this? Any info is greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Shawn

 

glad it worked out! I plan to get one if I ever need a replacement, or I happen to have some extra cash kickin around.

 

Man it's worth the money. Good power from mid to top. Way better than the ole stocker.

 

I am running an aftermarket turbo as well ( non vgt though ). First I had an ATS 3000, blew the heads off it, then I did a complete tear down so now it is a 5000. Mine was vibrating as well, but after checking it out it was the downpipe hitting the firewall. Now mine is 4 inch which is the biggest that will fit. I just loosened the clamp on the turbo and had a friend use a prybar under the truck to hold it away from the firewall, and retightened it. Also mine vibrated considerably worse in reverse. Hope this helps.

 

let us know what the vibration was when you fix it.

Also some feedback on how the powermax is working for you would be interesting to hear as this might be a better way to go than to pour money into a stocker when it finally shows signs of failure (if that time ever comes).

 

How well do the EGTs hold up? I know with my non-vgt it does what I call "hold EGTs". As long as I keep atleast 5 psi of boost going, even if I'm accelerating, it will actually keep the same temp with regard to EGTs. That sweet spot seems to be around 1100, which is fine as far as I'm concerned.

 

Shawn--Check your boost gauge next time it "vibrates" although the factory gauge may not be sensative enough (I have no clue here) and see if it flutters. It really sounds like some kind of harmonic problem though. Does it vibrate everytime (every shift) the engine is between 1900 and 2000 or just when you're cruising/pulling steady?

 

Where did you get the turbo? How much?

 

I am also looking it to this new turbo.
Dose it lower your EGT's

 

I understand it lowers EGT's between 50 & 100 degrees.

 

So far so good on the turbo. Good mid to top end power and it's right there when you need it. My EGTs are between 900 and 1000 at 70 mph crusing speed. I haven't ever really towed with this truck so can't answer EGTs on towing.

As far as the vibration goes haven't really figured it out yet. Been busy at work and now my main concern is my long cold starts. It comes and goes. Some days it fires right off and some days it takes a while. Gonna check ficm voltage tomorrow if I get time.

Thumbs up on this turbo though and i got it from OCDiesel for little over $1200. It's at least a month long wait for em and at least two and a half months for IC boots (don't ask cause I'll just go into a rampage over the IC boots).

Thanks

Shawn

 

Here is the TSB most likely regarding what you are experiencing...


6.0 Moan/Droan Between 1500-2000 RPM:
Engineering has investigated this condition and found the cause to be engine firing pulses causing the turbo mounts to vibrate/resonate. For trucks built through 9-29-03 install a revised turbo pedestal, P/N 3C3Z-6N639-BA. Trucks built after 9-29-03, install a turbo bracket A-brace, P/N 5C3Z-6N639-BA. If the draon is still present after installing the brace on trucks built from 9-30-03 through 1-17-05, replace the turbo pedestal with 5C3Z-6N639-AA. Ensure the droan is not caused by a bound exhaust system. Inspect for any damaged or broken exhaust hangers. Check the turbo downpipe by loosening the pipe at the top and bottom, checking its alignment and retightening. If the droan is still present, check the part number embossed on the turbo pedestal just below the turbo compressor outlet to the intercooler. If the number IS NOT 1846207C1, replace the pedestal with the above part. After replacement, or if the number IS 1846207C1, loosen the turbo inlet pipes and EGR cooler flange and neutralize by installing the components in this order: snug the flange between the LH and RH inlet pipes; torque the EGR cooler clamp to 53 in/lbs; torque the pedestal bolts to 23 ft/lbs; torque the turbo inlet clamp to 9 ft/lbs: snug the inlet pipes to manifolds. Ensure all components are properly aligned. Torque the flange between the LH and RH inlet pipes to 20 ft/lbs and the inlet pipes to the manifolds to 20 ft/lbs. Broadcast Message 0992, SSM 17530, TSB #04-9-4 & 05-19-12.

 

Now that Bench posts it I think I failed to ask you IF you had released the manifold to y-pipe bolts. Don't remember and not sure it's even possible to install a turbo with them tight (I don't want to try anyway).

And still having the long crank to start???? I thought that resolved itself? Waiting on FICM voltage.

 

I have tried to install a turbo a couple times with the bolts tight on the manifold,it was a gong show both times, I ended up under the truck to loosen the bolts.Now first thing I do is crawl under and loosen all the exhaust pluming to the turbo.

 

HAHA---Me2 Tony. I usually start soaking mine a week in advance to lessen the pain.