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Although many of the techniques they use to lighten aren't beneficial to high rpm, it still helps the 400 rev quicker, a little less weight, and cut through the oil better.My machinist claims he can knock out close to 10 lbs and still not require much balancing.I know the 5 lbs difference in my aluminum driveshaft made a difference. Just wondering if this could be $400 spent elsewhere.
Double knife-edging for reduced windage,oil-free counterweights for perhaps 3 hp.
Chamferred oil holes & gun driled mains would help the big 3" mains stay lubed at higher rpms.
10 bs less would help me pass through the rpms a lot quicker.Freeing up at least 3-5 hp from not having to turn a 10 lb heavier rotating mass. Especially running a 260/260 duration @ .050 cam. Higher rpm is where I need to be where more power can be made.
It's actually $350. $50 to balance. It's not that bad I guess.
Hmmmmm, I polished mine myself when I had a lot of time on my hands. Did not do knife edging and only took off manybe 1/2 pound? Ten pounds seems like a lot to make up for on balancing. You might get in to using some expensive Mallory metal inserts.
I thought the same thing, but the crank specialist said it will still need balancing but not a lot of extensive addition of mallory. Anything more would require major additions of metal. I consider close to 10 lbs to be between 8-9 lbs actually which is still good when talking about a rotating mass. Like I said before, my aluminum driveshaft had a noticeable difference at only 5 lbs less than the stock weight.
The old shaft was not vibrating. However, an alum shaft will smooth out any vibrations in the driveline. It was swapped for performance reasons. Freed up about 3 hp and noticeable quicker acceleration. Just a tad.