I am relatively new to the PSD world, and I'm looking for some advice from you gentlemen on things to be watching out for on my 2001 F350. I just got rid of my '07 F250 PSD, not because I didn't like the truck, it pained me greatly to let 'er go, what did pain was the payment when I only used the truck 2-4 times a month to go camping, fishing or run to town. So anyhow I traded her off for a high mileage '01 F350 7.3L DRW LWB. The trucks got some issues, of which the forum helped me to resolve the first, A/C wasn't working properly. 15 minutes in the driveway and she's cooling like a champ! Next will be front brakes. What I would like know is, if there any known issues I should be keepeing my eyes and ears open for. I plan to do most routine maintenance myself. Even though the truck has 194K on it the motor still seems plenty strong, however it does have a completely different sound and performance characteristics than the 6.0L in the '07 I had. Perhaps it is just the nature of the 7.3's that they are not as "zippy" as the 6.0's, i don't know, i have no frame of refrence since these are the only 2 PSD's I've ever owned or driven. The primary purpose for the truck is haul around my camper and fam' and have a good time fishing and playing in the woods. I would like to get this truck into shape and keep for a long time. Hopping to get at least another 100K on the motor. Any input you fellas might have for me would be greatly appreciated.

 

Welcome Brandon, I am new to the 7.3 also. I had a 08 F250 6.4L prior to the 7.3. I just got fed up with all the emissions garbage and time spent at the dealer. Yes, the stock 7.3 lacks the performance of the newer PS's but they make it up in reliability and ease of maintenance. Performance can be increased by our friends at DP after you do a few simple mods, gauges, intake, exhaust.
I will let the real 7.3 experts jump in as I am still a newb. Good luck.

 

Thanks Bill, the long standing reputation of the 7.3 is what I based my decision on. Thier reputation is strong I had a hard time actually finding one that wasn't already sold when I checked on any truck I was interested in.

 

That's becoming increasingly common.

Most of us consider ourselves lucky.

And smart.

Pop

 

Yes the 7.3's are becoming more and more rare to buy. I consider myself very lucky to find the exact X I wanted with a 7.3.

The main thing to take care of in the 7.3 years is the transmission if your is an auto. Manual calls for changing the fluid in the pan every 30K miles. If you are unsure of the previous maintenance on your truck I would go for the full trans flush. Here is the procedure many including me have used and it works great! I noticed a tremendous improvement after the flush on my 170K mile 7.3.

Changing ATF Fluid in a E4OD and 4R100 transmission .: Articles

 

I feal really lucky having found mine, at the time I was looking for an ext cab 8ft bed with zf 6sp manual trans and all acessories (a VERY RARE find around hear) then when I found one at a local dealer, I near sh** myself when I heard it had the 7.3 SOLD ! ! ! ! ! !
You will be very happy with it, some things to look for (I have yet to experience them) the EBPV selenoid leaks (in turbo pedastal), I have read about the cps going bad.

interesting info. I forgot when this was originally posted, but there are over 2 million 7.3l in ford trucks (not including the IH trucks) that is more than cheby, gmc and dodge COMBINED!!!!

 

Thanks, I appreciate the heads up and the reccomendation on procedure. After reading the ongoing saga that Frank has gone through with his tranny, a full flush will be added to the list of to-dos.

 

Brandon, first, wecome to FTE and congrats on finding a good low milaege 7.3...that wasn't easy i'm sure. Frank has a few miles on his truck and some extra goodies that you don't have yet, stick around and you will though...as said already, the 7.3 may not have the pep of the 6-blow, but it sure beats the helloutof having your rig sit mostly at the dealership getting fixed...you can work on these motors with the cab still on the truck, +#1, parts are relatively less expensive, +#2, and with only 194k on the new to you 350, you will have lots of time to enjoy your truck instead of working like a dog to pay for the other one...+#3...have fun with it...

 

Right on!...Wasn't sure what constituted "high mileage" on the 7.3's. What Mod's would anyone recommend doing first? Spent a good portion of the day reading different threads, and refrences to different mods. With front brakes in the near future, something cheap would be good. Eventually I'd like to do the tripple gauge cluster, DP chip, ect. Perhaps the 6637 is a good place to start.

 

Any recommendations on front brakes replacement parts, most likely will be replacing rotors (badly warped) and pads. Not sure about calipers yet, but if highly recommended that they be done, especially for peace of mind, will budget for those too.

 

Most people I have seen doing front brake upgrades have had good things to say about powerslot rotors and hawk pads.

I have not looked into the prices of those rotors myself but if it is double the stockers you would also have to keep in mine that you could replace the stock ones twice for the one time with powerslots.


Number 1 and 2 mods most everyone starts with and should be done before a tuner is intake and exhaust. Another cheap 'mod' (not sure how much it helps) is the intake heater delete. I've done it myself and is the only mod so far that I have done to my 7.3. I am a little different, I like to mod my cars and leave my trucks mostly stock. The most I would do to my 7.3 is the intake, a quiet exhaust, and a couple gauges above the rear view mirror to monitor trans temp and egt. But even the way the truck is now it has plenty of power for me so I may even leave it alone.


Finch mentioned a couple good things to look at as well. The CPS (crank position sensor) is a cheap part to just buy and have in the glove box just in case. It is a easy change on the road and is a part that will leave you stranded when it goes out. I ordered one off ebay for myself and keep it in the tool box just in case. Cost me $28 shipped. Way cheaper than a tow bill!

 

Thanks for the input, still undecided on whether upgrade to rotors is necessary, but it sure would be nice to have exrtra stopping power when I've 3,000lbs of camper on the truck. Seeing myself type that setlles it, upgrade it is! Do you know if those parts (power slot & hawk pads) are available through local retailers or should I find them online somewhere? Thamks again.

 

I am unsure where they get the rotors from. Hawk pads are normally ordered off the web, I assume the same for the rotors. I am sure someone will be along with links soon.

 

I would say to keep an eye on the water pump and ball joints and esof hubs.

 

Thanks WMD, I'll add those to my "Things to watch" list. Think I'll check ball joints and tie ends when I do brakes.