I replaced the GEM and Fuse Panel one year ago with parts from Ford, and took it to the dealership to have the GEM programmed. I also sealed around the windshield, cowl, rooflines, door frames and luggage rack to keep water from getting to the wiring harness again. It’s been running fine, until yesterday morning. I went to start it, and nothing came on. I thought the battery was dead, so I let it charge all day. When I got home from work, it was charged. I hooked it back up, but the same thing happened when I tried to start it. There is no power to the radio, windows, door locks, or heat/cool controls.

Weather has been in the upper 80’s and somewhat humid. It hasn’t seen rain in over two weeks.

Symptoms:
When I open the driver side door, Relay 1 or 2 in the under-dash fuse panel clicks until the dome light comes on: ticka-ticka-ticka-ticka-ticka. If I leave the glovebox open, the glovebox light flashes with the clicking.

Once the dome light comes on, the clicking stops.

If I put the key in the ignition and turn to ACC, the only idiot lights that come on are Theft, ABS, Battery, and Airbag. If I left the door open, Door Ajar will also be lit, and the dome lights are on. When I turn and hold the key in the start position, everything goes out. The Theft light flashes. The is a whirring or pulsing clicking sound coming from the engine compartment, almost like the injectors are cycling.

Attempted fixes:
Replaced negative battery connector - it was rusted and broke when I removed it. Cleaned the positive one.

I have the old fuse panel and GEM, so I swapped out first Relay 2 and then Relay 1. Both relays were quite warm. The replacements clicked as well. I put the originals back.

There are no blown fuses that relate to the starter in the engine compartment fuse/relay block.

I used two different keys - my everyday one and the spare that’s hardly ever been used. No difference.

What else do I check? What are the next steps?

 

Do you have +12 volts on the secondary side of both main power fuses? There are two on the passenger side of the firewall under a large plastic cover.

1. Did you clean the battery cable connectors good before hooking them back up to the battery?

2. What about the other (non-battery) ends of the positive and negative cables...are they in good shape?

3. Bad ignition switch?

 

I haven't checked if I have +12 volts on the both main power fuses. I will check this.

1. Yes, I did clean the battery cable connectors good before hooking them back up.

2. I will check the other ends of the positive and negative cables.

3. I will check the ignition switch.

I replaced the starter solenoid on the passenger firewall by the battery. No change.

Thanks for the help! Keep it coming!

 

What voltage is the battery putting out with no load on it?
(Maybe that bad negative battery cable kept your battery from being charged?)

 

I followed the cables to the starter, cleaned them.

I replaced the Ignition Switch. No change in behavior.

I decided to take out the starter, and had Advance Auto Parts bench test it. It tested fine - I watched it engage and spin.

So . . . . posible short somewhere? Where do I start to look?

To Jim - the battery connector had a solid connection. It broke when I removed it. I had it on a Battery Tender all day - it went green, so it was (and still is) fully charged. I will grab a multimeter tomorrow and check it anyways, since I will need it to ring out other wires for troubleshooting. Any other ideas?

 

12.6 volts at the posts.

 

Looks like the battery has a full charge....

 

Funny you should mention that. A fully charged battery doesn't necessarily have the amps to turn it over. I pulled the battery out of my Dakota, and the Expedition fired right up. Grrrrrrrr

Sorry to have wasted everyone's time. I do appreciate all the helpful suggestions!

 

If the battery is putting out 12.6 volts with no load - then turn the headlights on to see if it has enough amps to make them bright - if they are bright, hit the starter with the headlights on. If the lights go out when you try and crank but come back on bright when you release the key, its usually a sign of a poor connection.

Glad you got it running . . . .

 

Thanks, Jim. That's a great way to narrow things down a bit. That how I figured out the battery was no good - turned on the headlights, and they went out pretty fast. Popped in the Dakota battery to confirm.

I'm glad it's running too.

Thanks again! I'm sure I'll be back on this forum.