VC-9 Flush Question
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 255
Likes: 6
From: San Mateo, CA
VC-9 Flush Question
Reading the rad flush procedure in the tech folder it says to drain system then add 2 bottles of VC-9 and top off with Distilled water, then follow the procedure as with or without thermostat.
So without the thermostat it says:
If thermostat is removed just idle for 5 minutes gently varying idle rpm’s between 750 and 1500 or turn High Idle Mod on.
It then says to repeat the flushing sequence. So question is, only 5 minutes with the VC-9 in it without a t-stat in???
So without the thermostat it says:
If thermostat is removed just idle for 5 minutes gently varying idle rpm’s between 750 and 1500 or turn High Idle Mod on.
It then says to repeat the flushing sequence. So question is, only 5 minutes with the VC-9 in it without a t-stat in???
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
From: Inverness, Fl
Let the vehicle run about 1 hour or take it on a drive after you add the VC-9. Than draining and refilling with distilled water until water comes out clean..After it all comes out clean refill with 31/2 gal on Motorcraft Coolant Premium Gold VC7-B or Zerex GO-5 Coolant. Than top off with distilled water until it reads on the lower level line in the dagass bottle. Keep checking for the next couple of weeks and add distilled water as needed. You will have a 50/50 mix when finished. You can also check out cheezit writeup on the flush.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...tructions.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...tructions.html
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
Likes: 669
From: Scio, OR
This is what I did. It made sense to me.
I drained some coolant out and put in the VC-9, without removing the thermostat. It was my understanding from something I read somewhere that flushing with VC-9 at temperature was best and this can't be achieved without the thermostat. I then drove the truck for about an hour at highway speed, thus ensuring I ran at temperature with the thermostat opening for a good, thorough flush.
Then I let it cool a bit, removed the thermostat, put it all back together, and flushed 5 or 6 times with distilled water.
Put the thermostat back in (I put a new one in, because mine wasn't holding temp as well as it should), drained it as well as possible, put in 3.5 gallons of coolant and topped it off with distilled water.
I changed my coolant filter AFTER the flush, because I figured if I was flushing around gunk I didn't want it in a new filter.
I drained some coolant out and put in the VC-9, without removing the thermostat. It was my understanding from something I read somewhere that flushing with VC-9 at temperature was best and this can't be achieved without the thermostat. I then drove the truck for about an hour at highway speed, thus ensuring I ran at temperature with the thermostat opening for a good, thorough flush.
Then I let it cool a bit, removed the thermostat, put it all back together, and flushed 5 or 6 times with distilled water.
Put the thermostat back in (I put a new one in, because mine wasn't holding temp as well as it should), drained it as well as possible, put in 3.5 gallons of coolant and topped it off with distilled water.
I changed my coolant filter AFTER the flush, because I figured if I was flushing around gunk I didn't want it in a new filter.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,398
Likes: 317
From: Whittier, CA
Reading the rad flush procedure in the tech folder it says to drain system then add 2 bottles of VC-9 and top off with Distilled water, then follow the procedure as with or without thermostat.
So without the thermostat it says:
If thermostat is removed just idle for 5 minutes gently varying idle rpm’s between 750 and 1500 or turn High Idle Mod on.
It then says to repeat the flushing sequence. So question is, only 5 minutes with the VC-9 in it without a t-stat in???
So without the thermostat it says:
If thermostat is removed just idle for 5 minutes gently varying idle rpm’s between 750 and 1500 or turn High Idle Mod on.
It then says to repeat the flushing sequence. So question is, only 5 minutes with the VC-9 in it without a t-stat in???
There is a difference of opinion around here on whether to remove the t-stat before using the VC-9. I say it should be removed, because I know it does not fully open until 219°F. It does not even start to open until 195°. I would rather have full circulation through the engine, even if it is at a somewhat reduced temp. And by the way, the workshop manual agrees with me. But whatever, I guess it will work either way.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
From: Inverness, Fl
Where did you purchase the ROTELLA ELC COOLANT. I'm up in Inverness,Fl can't find it anywhere!!! Also what's is going $$ for ??..Thanks
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 255
Likes: 6
From: San Mateo, CA
Ok got it, Do any of you remove the block plugs? the left seems easy but you have to remove the starter for the right????
Trending Topics
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,398
Likes: 317
From: Whittier, CA
I did not remove either one. Didn't want to take a shower in the draining coolant. But it is recommended by Ford to remove just the driver side plug. I haven't read anyone who thinks it is worth dropping the starter to remove the passenger side plug.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,398
Likes: 317
From: Whittier, CA
But my advice is to replace the thermostat. It comes with the housing and new O-ring.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 255
Likes: 6
From: San Mateo, CA
Is a whole thermostat expensive?? I only have 34k on my truck... and THANKS for all your help!
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,398
Likes: 317
From: Whittier, CA
I think the list price is less than $40. But you are probably right, and don't need one if you only have so few miles. Which means you probably don't need an O-ring either. It is unlikely that you would damage it.
Even though you have low miles, that spring has been compressed for 6 years. I would get a new one, but that's just me.
Even though you have low miles, that spring has been compressed for 6 years. I would get a new one, but that's just me.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 255
Likes: 6
From: San Mateo, CA
Great thanks... I may need one by the time I find some Coolant! I have been looking all day for some ELC and the closest (Fleetrite ELC) is an hour away..
I guess I know where im going while the VC-9 in in the system...
I guess I know where im going while the VC-9 in in the system...
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 25
From: Middle Tn.
Can't get any simpler than this. Even I understand them!
1. Drain coolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or untill water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling syatem is empty. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o
></o>
<o></o>
1. Drain coolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or untill water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling syatem is empty. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o><o
></o>
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 202
Likes: 1
From: FLORIDA
Well the company i drive for this what we use in our trucks,i got mine for free.Here are a some web sites http://www.pricethattool.com/product...nzoil-Products. and here is another - Rotella home page Hope this helps