I am going to flush my cooling system this week end. Bought the VC-9 yesterday at Ford, $26.50, but there are no inst. except not to exceed 10% concentration during flush. Does anyone know how long the VC-9 should circulate before removing?
Little advice; Zerex GO-5 @ Napa = $10.49
Premium Gold @ Dealer = $22.00

 

Anybody?? I did this just to keep the thread near the top. Also, do you use 1 or 2 qts. in the 6.0?

 

I guess no one knows anything about VC-9 even tho Ford requires it for flushes? I will try to talk to a tech at the dealer tomorrow.

 

WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

Once pressure is released, remove the pressure relief cap.
Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.
Remove the Air Cleaner (ACL) element. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12.
Disconnect the air filter minder and the Mass Air Flow (MAF) electrical connectors.

Loosen the clamp and remove the rear ACL cover.

Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing assembly.

Remove the bolts and the thermostat housing assembly.

Position the thermostat housing assembly in the vise. Press down on the thermostat crossbar and rotate the thermostat to remove it from the thermostat housing assembly.

NOTE: Use the old O-ring seal during the flushing procedure.

Install the thermostat housing assembly without the thermostat. Install the bolts.
Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).

Connect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing assembly.

Install the rear ACL cover and tighten the clamp.

Connect the air filter minder and the MAF electrical connectors.

Install the ACL element. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12.
NOTE: The RH cylinder block drain plug is not removed at this time.

Remove the LH cylinder block drain plug and drain the cylinder block.

NOTE: Lightly lubricate the O-ring seal on the cylinder block drain plug with clean engine oil before installing.

Install the LH cylinder block drain plug.
Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).

NOTE: For vehicles with auxiliary climate control or commercial vehicles with auxiliary heaters, use 2.83L (3 qt) of Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9).

NOTE: The use of excessive Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9) can lead to gelling.

Fill the cooling system with water and 1.89L (2 qt) of Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9).
NOTE: Adjust the heater control to the full hot position to allow coolant flow during the cooling system flush.

NOTE: Failure to allow the engine to run for one hour will result in insufficient cleaning of the cooling system.

Using the scan tool, select the active command and set the engine rpm to 1,175. Run the engine for one hour.
WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

Once pressure is released, remove the pressure relief cap.
Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.
Leave the radiator draincock open.
Remove the LH cylinder block drain plug.

Remove the starter. For additional information, refer to Section 303-06B.
Remove the RH cylinder block drain plug.

NOTE: For vehicles with a standard heater, disconnect the vacuum hose at the heater control valve to open the heater core flow. For vehicles with anElectronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) heater, turn the ignition key to the ON position.

NOTE: Failure to flush all the Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9) from the cooling system will result in shortened coolant protection against corrosion.

Flush the cooling system with clean water through the degas bottle to completely remove the Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9) from the cooling system.
Flush the cooling system with clean water until no foam or discoloration is draining from the cooling system.
Backflush the heater core. For additional information, refer to Heater Core Backflushing in this section.
NOTE: Failure to flush all the Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9) from the cooling system will result in shortened coolant protection against corrosion.

Flush the cooling system with clean water through the degas bottle to completely remove the Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner (VC-9) from the cooling system.
Flush the cooling system with clean water until no foam or discoloration is draining from the cooling system.
Close the radiator draincock.
Remove the ACL element. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12.
Disconnect the air filter minder and the MAF electrical connectors.

Loosen the clamp and remove the rear ACL cover.

Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing assembly.

Remove the bolts and the thermostat housing assembly.
Remove and discard the O-ring seal.

Position the thermostat housing assembly in the vise. Press down on the thermostat crossbar and rotate the thermostat to install it in the thermostat housing assembly.

NOTE: Install a new O-ring seal.

Install the thermostat housing assembly and the bolts.
Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).

Connect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing assembly.

Install the rear ACL cover and tighten the clamp.

Connect the air filter minder and the MAF electrical connectors.

Install the ACL element. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12.
NOTE: Lightly lubricate the O-ring seal on the cylinder block drain plug with clean engine oil before installing.

Install the RH cylinder block drain plug.
Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).

Install the starter. For additional information, refer to Section 303-06B.
NOTE: Lightly lubricate the O-ring seal on the cylinder block drain plug with clean engine oil before installing.

Install the LH cylinder block drain plug.
Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).

Fill the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.

 

hope that helps

 

omg i think i would just let cheezit do it. How often should this be done.

 

Yikes! Premium Gold at my dealer was $11.99.

 

the trucks are very well know to leech sand back into the cooling system. Im about to do mine for the first time and except to see a little bit come out. the vc9 just removes the iron deposits though. A good cooling system cleaner for everything but rust is a 1/4 bottle of simple green or liquid cascade dishwasher soap. so I would flush with vc9, then run a little simple green to get rid of the remaining vc9.

as far as how often well im gonna say every 30k or so. But its free for me I just do it at the shop.

 

When you say 1/4 bottle, 1/4 bottle of what size?

And once again an excellant post. thanks, Mike

Incidentally, another post that should be in the tech folder.

 

about a 1/4 gallon. and this is not a joke. we really do this all the time. Its main function is to remove oil when you have an oil cooler fail and leach oil in to the cooling system. It works really well. just make sure to flush out all of the simple green too.
also both are ford approved flush products.
I have not tried any other types of cleaners. just make certin if you want to experment that the cleaner does not produce suds.

 

Well, just drained everything and put the system back together minus the t-stat. As comprehensive as that write up is I am surprised that it didn't mention the pressure switch bracket mounted between the nuts on the t-stat. No big deal just a little extra work. I will do the actual VC-9 drive and subsequent flushes tomorrow. Cheezit, If the system is flushed with simple Green and then really flushed good, 3 or 4 times, how detrimental would it be to not drop the starter to pop the right hand block plug.

 

none what soever. the olny time we do that is for oil/coolant mix.

 

Thanks Cheezit, appreciate the info. When I'm done I will evaluate if this is worth doing yourself or have the dealer do it. Had the dealer do a tranny hot flush today and replace with Mercon SP for $133.00. Not worth my time for that price plus they have the machine. The only question on the coolant flush is the SA couldn't answer if they use tap or distilled water. And then when I was leaving he said that they probably used tap water.
I have a two post lift in my garage which makes all this easier but I will tell you, if I was draining this 4 or 5 times on my back swimming in it the dealer would be doing it. Incidentally, if you use the rad. drain before the lower hose you only get about another 3 to 4 qts. so no bath involved. About a galon when I popped the left block plug and you will not stop it from getting on you if you are laying on your back.

 

I flatback back this job and stay dry most of the time. I found that a lift is more of a pain sometimes.
I would let the dealer do mine too but Im the dealer guy that would have to do it. the flush process is stright out of the book section 303-?? just so ya know

 

Cheezit, I'm just one of those guys that have to try it at least once to see if it's worth me doing and it makes me more familiar with my machine if you know what I mean.