I was going to go with a 2.5" but I only have a 2 1/4 " die for my bender, its about $25 for a 10' length of either I figured Three should do with a couple mufflers, I was thinking magnaflow or maybe do some glasspacks on the cheap. what do you recommend?? Im not far from you i'm in durham at the east end of the city. maybe after i get her plated we can hook up and check out each others rigs?? btw i could always buy another die for my bender.

thanks Adam.

 

Yeah my truck has 2.25" tru-duals on it, and just cheapo glasspacks and it sounds pretty good. It has a nice mellow rumble at idle, but she opens up and sounds like straights at the top end...

 

If you are set up for 2 1/4 then just use that. I don't have a clue how much a die would be although if cheap enough you will be better of with 2 1/2" in the long run. Mufflers are strickly personal preference. The muffler has to suit you!

You will see two distinctly different camps here, the glasspacks and the traditional mufflers. RangerHaywood likes the glasspacks on his and that's perfectly okay but I much prefer a dynomax bullet or two chamber Flowmaster. The point is it needs to be a sound you like. Since you are going short pipe with a very few bends, it's definitely going to make any muffler you pick that much louder. You also want to look at where your exhaust will be routed. Are you dumping the tailpipes under the truck or exiting them outside? This will add considerably to the resonance you hear in the cab especially with the exhaust dumping under the truck. If that's the case a two chamber probably isn't for you. Muffler length will also affect resonance but not so much as where you exit the pipes.

Maybe RangerHaywood can jump back in here and tell you about his exhaust? Straight back, side exit, rear exit, muffler dumps or however it's setup and also how bad it resonates in the truck. This will give you an idea at least of the different setups.

We should hook up, we're close enough! I'd really like to see your truck. Not really much of mine to see, MA#4 is down to the frame for a full restoration. If you'd like you are more than welcome to come by some day and we can just talk trucks!

 

Oh alright if i have too , I have Hedman Headers on it, down to 2.25" pipes that go straight back to the 30" Long Thrush glasspacks, then they go about another 6 Feet back to some elbows on each pipes, to bend around the Class 5 Reese Hitch....and they get rid of the tingy sound that straight pipes have...

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[quote=RangerHaywood;9291308]Oh alright if i have too , I have Hedman Headers on it, down to 2.25" pipes that go straight back to the 30" Long Thrush glasspacks, then they go about another 6 Feet back to some elbows on each pipes, to bend around the Class 5 Reese Hitch....and they get rid of the tingy sound that straight pipes have...

See, that wasn't too bad Should help our friend mud out!

Damn nice truck by the way there Ranger

 

Thanks 25aniv!!!!!!

 

BTW, it doesnt resonate half as bad as it used too when it had straight pipes and carpet! Now it has mufflers and no carpet and its a ton quieter in the cab!

 

Ford started putting cat's on their f100's in 1975 which is why they started building the heavier f150 to get around the EPA guidelines.

My current 74 f100 4x4 360ci does not have cats but my old 75 f100 i had in high school had a factory single cat. The cat even had the original factory ford emblem staming. Should'a kept that truck....

 

My '77 F-150 had no cats, no "unleaded fuel only" on the fuel gage, no fuel restrictor.

The '79 F-150 Crew Cab I stripped for $150 had a cat, had the "unleaded fuel only" on the fuel gage, had a fuel restrictor.

 

Thanks to both of you guys "25anlv & Ranger haywood" I was thinkin of doin it on the cheap for now, exhaust is one of the few things left i have to do other than a couple batt. and I am hoping thats why i need to boost it to start her.
I'll try to post some pics of her, she is a solid truck and will give most real men a bit of a chubby! LOL!! not to change the subject but I have redone all grounds in the engine bay but i still have a draw somewhere???? is the a common spot this could be or do I have to trace each wire?
Thanks again
Adam

 

I am having the same problem in my truck, and i have just done the 3G 130 amp IR alternator upgrade....there isnt really anything to draw on the battery much, first would be to make sure the diodes are working correctly in the alternator, then would be to check and see if the battery actually is holding a charge and isnt internally shorting out...i dont remember what else to check on these trucks after that

 

OK thanks i was wondering about the alternator, it is thirty years old.
i put a load test on my battery it still reads ok but I have disconnects on it without them it drains, thats not to say it still isn't the battery in conjunction with something else. I'm going to toss up another post on this subject to see if any one else can bounce some idea's at me. Keep in touch you guys have been a great help and I would like to keep in touch with ya's

 

I'm late to this discussion, but heck it took that long to look at my truck...

25aniv suggested this (I think) on the previous page, but there must be "partial" emissions trucks out there because my 79 F350 was made in Ontario, DSO was Phoenix, has "unleaded" sticker on the speedo, but no cat. Plus sticker under hood--original, I'm sure--says "non catalyst" truck. Certain hoses and air cleaner housing items are not present (and no holes for them, either.)

Don't know if any of this helps or has already been declared in some way but FWIW...

 

You merely have an air pump and an EGR emission style setup w/o catalytic convertors

 

Yup, according to the factory manual that's about it--and you worded it much more clearly than my reference to "some stuff" !