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Fuel pump died?

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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 06:09 PM
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Fuel pump died?

My son's truck was idling in the driveway when it suddenly died and would not restart. He called me out to help diagnose and I didn't hear the fuel pump when I turned the key on so I switched to the rear tank. I then heard the pump and the truck started.

Flip back to the front tank and the engine dies.

Should we purchase a new pump and drop the tank or is there something else that I should check first. When I move the switch to the front tank, the fuel gauge shows about 1/4 tank still so I don't think the wire connector has come loose but I am not super familiar with these trucks (yet).

I checked www.partsguyed.com and the Motorcraft pumps are pricey. Is there a decent pump at a reasonable price somewhere else? Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks guys.
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 07:00 PM
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Are there separated relays for those pumps? (owns a Bronco) if there isn't, i don't think there is much else you can do. If the body of the pump is in good shape you could buy a rebuild kit, it's as easy as replacing the internals (really, it's very easy).
 
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 07:07 PM
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Thanks Encho,
(are people on a first name basis on this forum? The 7.3 forum is that way....)

Thank you very much for the idea. The fuel pump rebuild idea sound interesting. Is there a kit for this purpose or do I just take it apart and clean it. It doesn't make any noise at all so it's not even trying to pump fuel. Does that sound more like an electrical issue or mechanical.

I have no clue about the relay question. I'll do a search for the electrical diagram and see what I can find out.

Thanks again.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 07:14 PM
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Ok, I found this cool photos in this post
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...4-9l-f150.html
(post #2)

Looks to me like the same fuse and relay operate both pumps. Probably via the dash mounted switch for the front to rear tank.

I am going to search for a writeup on the fuel pump rebuild now......
 
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 07:30 PM
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You could also have a bad selector switch.

The pumps do quit that way also.
Not sure what you are working on so can not help much more (model, year, engine size & transmission type).
 
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by subford
You could also have a bad selector switch.

The pumps do quit that way also.
Not sure what you are working on so can not help much more (model, year, engine size & transmission type).
Oops! I guess that would help huh???

My son's truck is a 1995 F150 5.0 automatic short bed 2wd regular cab XL.

I was thinking if the selector switch was bad then the gauge wouldn't work either...is that a fair statement?

Has anyone else rebuilt their fuel pump?
 
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by gchavez
I was thinking if the selector switch was bad then the gauge wouldn't work either...is that a fair statement?
No it is not. The pump part of the selector switch is the part that goes bad.


But more often than not it is the pump itself that is bad.

Originally Posted by gchavez
Has anyone else rebuilt their fuel pump?
I have replaced the pump both ways.
I have replaced the whole unit and the just the Fuel Delivery Module (FDM) on to the pipes.


I have not tried just replacing the pump inside the FDM as the ones I have taken apart some of the tabs have broken off the FDM housing.



/
 
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 08:49 PM
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Thanks Bill,
Great info.

How easy is it to check the switch? Do I have to pull it out of the dash? From the diagram in the other post I found, it looks like the Y/LB and BR/W wires are for the rear tank and the EB/Y and R wire is for the front tank. The Red wire is for the motor, correct? (Dark Blue with Yellow stripe is for the fuel level sender).

So, to check the switch, check for 12v at the red wire with the switch to the front. Am I on the correct path?

Is it easier to just do this under the truck? can I get to the wire harness connectors at the tank without too much trouble? (My son is at school still and he doesn't get home for another couple of hours...)
 
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by gchavez
How easy is it to check the switch?
I would do it under the truck.
Not easy either way.

Originally Posted by gchavez
Do I have to pull it out of the dash?
To check at the switch yes you would have to pull the dash out.

Originally Posted by gchavez
From the diagram in the other post I found, it looks like the Y/LB and BR/W wires are for the rear tank and the EB/Y and R wire is for the front tank. The Red wire is for the motor, correct? (Dark Blue with Yellow stripe is for the fuel level sender).
Correct

Originally Posted by gchavez
So, to check the switch, check for 12v at the red wire with the switch to the front. Am I on the correct path?
Yes you are.

Originally Posted by gchavez
Is it easier to just do this under the truck? can I get to the wire harness connectors at the tank without too much trouble?
I would do it under the truck.
The plug for the tank is near the back side of the tank at the the driver side frame rail.


/
 
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 09:34 PM
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Thank you very much. I'll wait until this weekend so I can show my son how to do this (first year college). He is not afraid to wrench on these things.

I'll post back with the results.
Where did you get the FDM that you listed earlier? Can I order it online if needed?
 
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 06:46 AM
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I bough just the FDM at O'Reilly Auto Parts for about $150.00.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 01:20 PM
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Also check the pigtail connector going to the pump, if it gets loose it won't feed the pump (of course...).

P.S.: Encho isn't my real name .
 
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 02:24 PM
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If you are going to replace the pump sometimes it is easier to take to box off the truck than to drop the tank. I have not personally done this but have heard it many times.
If you are replacing the pump do not buy one form NAPA. I personally have had several problems with them. I went through 5 of them in 3 months. NAPA replaced them under warranty but sitll a pain. I put a motorcraft one in and no problems since.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 10:45 PM
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Update: Fuel pump replacement

Thanks for all the help. As many of us suspected, the fuel pump was bad. It just died stone cold without any prior symptoms. So, my son and I replaced it today. He couldn't afford a Motorcraft pump so he picked up one at NAPA (against my recommendations). However, he did warn the guy at the parts counter that he would expect a full refund if the part failed within a year....NOT a replacement, a full refund. So, the guy went back behind the counter and pulled out another fuel pump. It was still in a NAPA box, but it was made by Bosch. The box says "Premium" so maybe it's a bit better than their standard pump. I guess we'll see. The part number is N67003. We'll see how long it lasts.

If we have to change the pump again, I am going to just take the bed off. Seem like it would be a a bit easier.

At any rate, here is how we did it:

We loosened up and removed the fuel filler neck and then lowered the tank enough to get to the electrical and fuel line connectors. I bought a fuel connector release tool from NAPA because the tool for my F250 was too large and didn't reach in there far enough. After the tank was disconnected, we moved it to the tailgate to remove the top ring. We used an airhose to blow off all the dirt and junk before we opened up the tank. A blunt head drift punch worked great to loosen the ring. It loosens counter-clockwise. Replacing the fuel pump was fairly simple and the installation was the reverse. Be careful not to get the fuel lines pinched between the top of the tank and mounting crossmember when you re-install it.

Started back up and everything works as normal. I tried to attach some pics but the attachments kept failing. I will try adding another post...
 
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 11:18 PM
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Here are some pics.
 
Attached Images
File Type: pdf
fuel pump part 1.pdf (1.79 MB, 108 views)
File Type: pdf
fuel pump part 2.pdf (1.80 MB, 95 views)
File Type: pdf
fuel pump part 3.pdf (1.68 MB, 103 views)
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