ujoint problem
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 110
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From: IL
ujoint problem
I replaced my rear driveshaft ujoint and it still has a bunch of play in it, but the truck doesnt vibrate like it did before at about 30-50 mph with the bad ujoint. Has anyone had any problems with the yoke wearing out or did i buy the wrong ujoint?
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,667
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From: Glen Rose,Texas
Not sure if you got the right u-joint or not?There should not be any play in it.The straps and bolts are really a one time use only item they tell me.They will stretch.I had to replace my rear straps three weeks ago because the bolts backed out and I was getting a bad vibration.Lucky I caught it before it came apart.
Put some red locktite on those bolts
Got the straps and bolts from Rockauto....cheap
Put some red locktite on those bolts
Got the straps and bolts from Rockauto....cheap
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,288
Likes: 269
From: North of Greenville
Sounds like the wrong u-joint.
Check your center support bearing (carrier bearing). You should not be able to push up on the drive shaft at that point hardly at all. When mine went out, it only showed up right after installing my front leveling kit which changed the angle of the drive shaft relative to the rear end. New center bearing and everything was better, but I actually had to add a couple of 1/8" shims to compeltely eliminate the vibration altogether.
One thing... make sure you chock the wheels EVERY time before breaking loose the drive shaft. You don't want what's in the pictures below to happen to you.
Check your center support bearing (carrier bearing). You should not be able to push up on the drive shaft at that point hardly at all. When mine went out, it only showed up right after installing my front leveling kit which changed the angle of the drive shaft relative to the rear end. New center bearing and everything was better, but I actually had to add a couple of 1/8" shims to compeltely eliminate the vibration altogether.
One thing... make sure you chock the wheels EVERY time before breaking loose the drive shaft. You don't want what's in the pictures below to happen to you.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 354
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From: Patterson, Ca.
I had play in the yoke. This is a John Wood fix. Drill, tap, install zerk and grease No more problem.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,288
Likes: 269
From: North of Greenville
One potential problem with this approach is that the grease has nowhere to go. It is therefore possible to overpressurize the chamber and make it more difficult for the shaft to maintain adequate play in the slide motion (unless you put in a relief in addition to the zerk).
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 354
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From: Patterson, Ca.
Thanks Pete, When I took my truck to JW for the trans I was concerned about the slack in the drive line. He just laughed and said they all have it and grabbed his drill. It didn't take me but about 30 seconds to figure out he knows more about these 7 dot 3s than just about anybody on this planet.
You have a good point though. I will be going back to Holtville and will question him about it. So far, about 6000 miles, no problem.
You have a good point though. I will be going back to Holtville and will question him about it. So far, about 6000 miles, no problem.
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,288
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From: North of Greenville
Your welcome, Bill, but I can;t take credit for the idea. This issue was pointed out to me by one of Schaeffer's more experienced lubrication specialists. Won't be an issue if you don't overgrease, but how do you ever know if you've done that? I almost think the grease would slip out into the boot if overpressurized, but I also know that you can create a vacuum inside the end of that slip joint that might not let the shaft slip out as far as it should and transfer the stresses elsewhere. I'm still pondering it myself.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 354
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From: Patterson, Ca.
Yeah Pete, now you have me thinking. I noticed the play in the drive line the most while towing my 9000# 5ver. I was really concerned with the jerking when
taking off from a stop and the clunk when stopping. After JW worked his magic
with the grease it's as smooth a new borns butt. I guess when it starts doing it again I will just have to be real cautious with the grease.
taking off from a stop and the clunk when stopping. After JW worked his magic
with the grease it's as smooth a new borns butt. I guess when it starts doing it again I will just have to be real cautious with the grease.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 2
From: Bend Oregon
where is the slack? are the cups moving around in the drive shaft? Did you replace the u joint yourself?
In my younger less experienced days I bent the ears on a drive shaft pounding out the old joint, when I installed the new joint it was binding as well as having slop end to end......took some careful "adjustments" with an 8 ton press to get it back to "workable" but I am sure it wasn't right.
In my younger less experienced days I bent the ears on a drive shaft pounding out the old joint, when I installed the new joint it was binding as well as having slop end to end......took some careful "adjustments" with an 8 ton press to get it back to "workable" but I am sure it wasn't right.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,447
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From: Northern Idaho
I'm told that rear drive shaft play between the transfer case and the rear diff is normal wear and tear on these trucks. I have about 1/2 inch slack and so does my buddy but our joints are all tight. You can literally get under the truck with it in neutral and turn the drive shaft back and forth. It's the rear diff play, but do check all joints and if you can have your shaft checked to be sure it's balanced. If it is not balanced then you will continue to tear up joints.
New User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 19
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From: Bennett CO (E of Denver)
93' F350 Diesel
Okay, so I installed a new U-joint into the very rear yoke of the rear drivesaft. No issues.
I'm about to put the driveshaft back up. Since the rear driveshaft/u-joint is clamed into the yoke of the rear diff, will the driveshaft u-joint just slip into the diff yoke? Do I need to compress the caps to make it fit into the rear diff yoke prior to clamping it in? Then I put the snap rings in?
This was a surprise to me since I'm used to a removable flange at the rear diff to press that rear knucle together (then just bolting the flange back up).
Thanks,
Okay, so I installed a new U-joint into the very rear yoke of the rear drivesaft. No issues.
I'm about to put the driveshaft back up. Since the rear driveshaft/u-joint is clamed into the yoke of the rear diff, will the driveshaft u-joint just slip into the diff yoke? Do I need to compress the caps to make it fit into the rear diff yoke prior to clamping it in? Then I put the snap rings in?
This was a surprise to me since I'm used to a removable flange at the rear diff to press that rear knucle together (then just bolting the flange back up).
Thanks,
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