As far as getting the right tubular crossmember goes, just get one for a small block Ford 289, 302, 351. The width is adjustable and they will fit all these old Ford chassis. You can spend big bucks and get the proper motor mount pads from the crossmember vendor or you can just go into your local parts store and get a set for a 1967 Mustang with a 289. That is the pad the crossmember is designed to use. Here's a link to the vendor and auction I mentioned:

1948-56 FORD F100 289 302 351 ENGINE CROSSMEMBER MOTOR: eBay Motors (item 380235508279 end time Sep-17-10 14:30:43 PDT)

Shop around, but I doubt that you'll beat that deal.

 

Do I need to box the frame before installation? I don't want to take chance on damaging the frame or anything else for that matter. I have seen these mounts advertised and was a little leary at first. You good folks have pretty much put my mind at ease.

 

No boxing necessary. The only time your frame needs to be boxed is during the installation of IFS to eliminate frame twist and allow the suspension to work properly. Installation is pretty straightforward. Just take your time and double check the clearance and position of everything before you start drilling holes. Position the engine, attach the crossmember, mark and drill the bolt holes, and bolt it in place. Once the crossmember is bolted tight, it will pivot in its mounts and allow you to tilt the engine/transmission to dial in the proper driveline angle. Once the driveline angle and transmission mount is finalized, it might not be a bad idea to drill a hole all the way through the frame mount and crossmember on each side and run a bolt all the way through it to lock everything in place. You'll see what I mean once it's in your hands and you play with it. I think that they intend for the ends to be welded once fit and width are established, but I prefer a through-bolt in each side for two reasons: 1. The crossmember comes with a nice powdercoated finish and I'd hate to burn it up welding on it. 2. The welding would have to be done after it is bolted in place in the chassis and once it is, it would be impossible to collapse the ends of the crossmember enough to ever remove it again without grinding off the welds.

 

With some mounts you may not be able to. They bolt to the frame in such a fashion that boxing would preclued their use.

Boxing never hurts, and it wouldn't hurt to do it if you find some mounts that will work with it.

But "is it necessary" is another question? That will draw heated debate almost as warm as the "if you don't install disc brakes you will die" debate.

If you can find mounts that will work with boxing, I'd do it. If you don't will you be killed? No and not even close.

I have a 51 F1 with a 390 PI that was dyno'd at 395 NHP. As I have it configured, it weighs (560#) about 50 pounds more than a stock 351 Windsor (and about the same as a stock Cleveland or Modified).

One day I jumped on the gas pedal, bolted forward, torqued to the right (about 6 inches) I peed my pants, and busted the aftermarket tubular motor mount I had installed on the right side close to the frame. The over the rail headers caught the engine as it dropped preventing from snapping the other side and it falling out.

When I took it in to have a new motor mount arrangement made specifically for the truck and engine, I asked them to laser the frame and there was absolutely no bending or torquing of the frame rails from the torque. After having the new mounts installed, and driving about 7000 miles, I had it lasered again just proir to rebuilding the front end. Still not a fraction of torquing/twisting.

So, do it if you can but don't worry if you can't.

Pics! First is old aftermarket mount - note the bending on the top support. Also note the difference in the mount bracing angles between the two

 

Blueovalrage and Julie, Thanks for the great info and the pics. Seeing as how I'm gonna stay with a small block I don't think I'll box the frame. I have read that you want to try and get the motor as close to the fire wall as possible. Is this true with small blocks or just big blocks? This being the first time ever doing an engine swap I want to do it right the first time and I don't want to wind up drilling a lot of holes in my frame. There doesn't seem to be a lot of threads dealing with detailed swaps.

 

Hey 55FE, I sent you a pm with a link to the motor mounts I used in my truck...

 

I prefer the cross members. It never hurts adding more strength to the frame. I've had good luck with the engine swap cross members from Trans-Dapt. Trans Dapt Performance Products - Universal Crossmembers With Pads

I think Mid Fifty's F100 parts sells these too. Part # 4419 for the cross member and # 4420 for the mounts.

 

Well, no it's not really a rule to try and get the engine as close to the firewall as possible. There are other factors that will govern placement more.

You really won't have enough room to have to worry about the engine being close to the firewall. Also some consideration on the is what kind of transmission you put behind it. If you go with a larger transmission like a C6, you will want th eengine a little farhter forward than th efirewall to give you a little space between the transmission and the cover.

Also, you want to make sure your engine is mounted such that your fan is at it's correct distance from the radiator and positioned the right distance in the shroud (engine distance from the radiator - ie hose length too). That would be more of a driving factor.

You're only going to have two or three inches to play with I would imagine.

 

Duplicate Post

 

Wow, what is up with the site today????!!!!

A third duplicate - sorry!.

 

with a smooth firewall i put the engine as far back as i could. even so, with a march kit electric fan and shroud it still was tight. had to turn the fan around, put it in pusher mode so the motor wasn't overhanging the water pump pully

 

Hey all. Thank you for all the great tips. Julie, I am gonna go with a C4 behind a 302 or a 289. Just wondering measurement wise how the install would go. I haven't seen to many posts on that type of detailed information. I see plenty of pics and they all look amazing. One day in the not so distant future mine will look that way too. The 239 and tranny are the only things left to remove. Then it's time to start on the frame.

 

Thanks for that

 

I have a 289/C4 combo in my F1. I'm sure there is more room in your engine bay than mine and the install worked well. I would position the engine so you just have enough room to get to the dip stick for the tranny. Julie is right about the radiator placement too. If the engine is still in the donor car, measure the distance from the fan blade to the radiator and match that. If not in donor car, position the radiator about 2 to 3 inches away from the fan.Hope that helps.

 

Thanks ZOOT. Any advice from this forum is good advice. I appreciate everything you guys and gals put out there for all of us to use and draw knowledge from.