New Toy-Minor Issues
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 93
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From: Loretto, TN
New Toy-Minor Issues
I just bought a 64 F100, nice little truck, but I've already come across a few problems. First off, I have no exterior lights except the headlights, but the blinkers work. I have no interior lights either. I've looked at the fuse block, and there is a vacant spot, the one at the top of the block closest to the dash. Is this my problem? If so, what size fuse is it? If it's not, what else could it be? Next issue, truck has a 262 Straight six, and it runs great, as long as it's running a little fat. If you push the choke all the way in, it won't idle and dies, give it just a little, and she'll pur like a kitten all day long. Fuel pump lacking, or just in need of a good carb cleaning?
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 2
From: Wahpeton ND
Try richining your idle mix a bit. That should ease the choke need thing. If not I would rebuild her.
The fuse you are looking at is I belive the heater fuse. Do you have dash lights? if so your running lights should work. If not I would replace your headlight switch. Standard electrical parts still makes them I bought one last year. You may be able to get them to work by twisting the dimmer **** a bit. This sometimes brings the contacts into place and voila there is light.
The fuse you are looking at is I belive the heater fuse. Do you have dash lights? if so your running lights should work. If not I would replace your headlight switch. Standard electrical parts still makes them I bought one last year. You may be able to get them to work by twisting the dimmer **** a bit. This sometimes brings the contacts into place and voila there is light.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
There are two positions on the headlamp switch.
When you pull the ****, the first position is the Parking Lights.
The second position is the Head Lamps, and when these turn on, the parking lights turn off. This is the way things were done back then.
The headlamp switch also controls the instrument panel lamps and the dome lamp.
Turning the **** to the left turns on the dome lamp. To the right, changes the brightness of the instrument cluster lamps.
C2DZ11654A .. Headlamp Switch (Motorcraft SW303) / Obsolete
Fits: 1962 F100/750 / 1963/64 F100/600 / 1962/67 Econoline // 1962/63 Falcon/Comet.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has THREE = 800-543-4959.
CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has THREE = 704-786-8139.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has SEVEN = 606-787-5293.
To remove the headlamp switch-remove the battery cable first! Pull the **** all the way out, reach under the dash, find the pushbutton on the switch, push it in...remove the **** and shaft assy from the switch.
Remove the bezel from the switch, the switch is now free of the dash.
When you pull the ****, the first position is the Parking Lights.
The second position is the Head Lamps, and when these turn on, the parking lights turn off. This is the way things were done back then.
The headlamp switch also controls the instrument panel lamps and the dome lamp.
Turning the **** to the left turns on the dome lamp. To the right, changes the brightness of the instrument cluster lamps.
C2DZ11654A .. Headlamp Switch (Motorcraft SW303) / Obsolete
Fits: 1962 F100/750 / 1963/64 F100/600 / 1962/67 Econoline // 1962/63 Falcon/Comet.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has THREE = 800-543-4959.
CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has THREE = 704-786-8139.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has SEVEN = 606-787-5293.
To remove the headlamp switch-remove the battery cable first! Pull the **** all the way out, reach under the dash, find the pushbutton on the switch, push it in...remove the **** and shaft assy from the switch.
Remove the bezel from the switch, the switch is now free of the dash.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Loretto, TN
OK guys, I've take the switch out, and after a little coaxing, and some WD40, I got the brake lights, the front parking lights and the interior lights to work. I still don't have rear parking lights, or tail lights, but it's a start. I really want to get the rear parking lights to work, as it's a flatbed and has the running lights on it. Is there any way to rewire it as to make the parking lights work WITH the headlights?
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 619
Likes: 1
From: Montpelier, VA
You should be able to run a jumper wire from the headlight circuit to the parking lamp circuit. I have seen people do this on older Mustangs with success. A wiring diagram should make it easy but I don't have one. I would like to make this modification too. I would sort out your other electrical issues first before modifying your harness though.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 2
From: Wahpeton ND
Why not just spend $60 and make it work right?
That kinda fix is ok for I am 60 miles from home and need to get there but come on. The switch is only designed to carry so much current.
There is already a wire that runs from your switch. It is brown I belive. It is probobly just rotted out from being exposed to the elements for 45+ years.
That kinda fix is ok for I am 60 miles from home and need to get there but come on. The switch is only designed to carry so much current.
There is already a wire that runs from your switch. It is brown I belive. It is probobly just rotted out from being exposed to the elements for 45+ years.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Loretto, TN
Like I said, I've got the brake lights working, which was the main objective, but the switch is touchy. I'll eventually replace it, but I still want my parking and running lights to come on with the headlights.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 2
From: Wahpeton ND
The brake light switch is notorious for gumming up. I keep an extra one at home as I only seem to get about 18mos out of them. At $8 each you can afford to replace them frequently.
Napa and everyone else still sells them.
Napa and everyone else still sells them.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 93
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From: Loretto, TN
Now I've got everyone confused. As of now, I have headlights, brake lights, blinkers, and front parking lights(on the first detent),and cab light. What I don't have is rear taillights(on any detent), and instrument lights. My objective is two fold, get the tail lights working normally, as well as the instrument gauge, and then make all of the parking lights work with the headlights. I hope that straightens everything out...
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 619
Likes: 1
From: Montpelier, VA
If the wiring that runs under the truck to the taillights is intact (check it), it's probably the headlight switch. I assume you have checked the simple stuff like instrument lamp fuse and taillight fuse.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 2
From: Wahpeton ND
I finalyfound my wiring diagram and it is a brown wire that runs the rear running lights.
Test with a testlight at theswitch and see if you have juice there. If you do it means that you have a broken or shorted wire somwhere in the rear. Is it possible that both bulbs are simply burned out?
Test with a testlight at theswitch and see if you have juice there. If you do it means that you have a broken or shorted wire somwhere in the rear. Is it possible that both bulbs are simply burned out?
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