When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok, got the Moogs and swaybar bushings installed. They were shot for sure but didn't fix the "creeking" problem that I'm getting at low speed and when I turn the wheel when stopped. I can feel it inder my feet and I'm almost positive it's the body bushings. Anyone changed them on an X before? They look easy enough but I've said that before and got burned.
Ok, got the Moogs and swaybar bushings installed. They were shot for sure but didn't fix the "creeking" problem that I'm getting at low speed and when I turn the wheel when stopped. I can feel it inder my feet and I'm almost positive it's the body bushings. Anyone changed them on an X before? They look easy enough but I've said that before and got burned.
I'll put my money on the body mount, the bolt goes through from under your left foot. Take up the driver door floor trim piece and pull back the carpeting and you'll find the bolt head. I just soaked them with PB Blaster before attempting to loosen them up then used a good silicone spray, if I had to do it again, I'd use Fluid Film, just used it on my boat trailer this weekend, what a difference it made. Fluid Film is a site sponsor and I am not in any way shape or form part of them, or compensated by them.
I have heard both PITA to get off and easy, so unless you have a rust belt or salt water area EX, then it should be easy!
I know a little late, but here are the links I was looking for!
I am having the same problem with the creeking. And popping noises on my right side when I go over a speed bump or park in my driveway. This is all good info on what to attack first
I had what I would call 'popping', not creaking. Changed my links - problem solved.
Could creaking be more of a friction movement between the mount bushing and the surfaces it contacts?
I think it also seems to be dependant on the climate that the truck resides in - dry = mount noise vs. seasonal wet weather suffers less from mount issues?
That link goes thru lots of movement - would be my first bet for a cure most of the time.
No bushings needed with the MOOG's. They are the links in rdct's pics above. They seem like they will be bullit proof.
Hoping they'll be better than the Ford part that lasted less than 300 miles. I might have something else going on but hoping Moog will be better anyway.
Originally Posted by jimzigg
looks like a simple install?
I would say simple, but not the as simple as the Ford part.
Guess it depends on your Y pipe.
Not sure if the stock ram pipe would have cleared easier with the Moog, but the Moog definitely requires a different approach than stock. Difference being the stock has bolts that you easily slip in and out of the bushing after putting the link in place; the Moog has tie-rod type ball-socket joints that obviously can't be removed.
It forced me with my Thorley Y pipe, to remove the upper mount off the frame - easy 2 bolts - and slide the mount onto the top joint/stud of the link, then place the link in position and re-bolt.
***Don't forget to support the sway bar end before removing the original.
Originally Posted by Peace2Peep
What about us 2005 Excursion guys? It looks like those model numbers are only for 2000-2004, what about the 2005...are they the same?
Oddly I don't see a Moog part number for these links beyond 2004. Ford Excursion 4WD 2005, Moog Suspension Parts.
Isn't that the damndest thing - and I searched Advanced Auto here for a F250 2005 instead of an X in case they don't realize it went that far in production, and it still shows nothing for this link for 4wd - only 2wd.
However Rock Auto says its the same part as my 2000, but Moog doesn't show that part beyond 2004, so who's right?
$45 for the Ford part from a dealer. Wonder if anyone else has replaced on an 05?