DAMNIT!!!!!!!!
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Upstate NY
DAMNIT!!!!!!!!
Hollowed the cat out on my truck over the weekend.... turbo is way louder now and the truck has a ****-ton more low end. Here's my question though, now when i get my foot in it and it starts to build boost there is the regular turbo spooling sound that all turbos make and then shortly after that starts there is very loud whooshing sound. Is this sound normal? Only happens when the motor is "up on the turbo". I figured i had a boost leak so i sprayed all connections down and couldn't find anything. While investigating last night i noticed someone diconnected the damn EBPV actuator rod from the valve and just let it hang there. Electrical connector on the pedestal is still connected. I tried for hours last night to get it back connected but i can't pull the damn rod out far enough to get it onto the nipple. Will this fix the whooshing sound? Does anybody even know what im talking about with that?
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Upstate NY
when you reconnected yours did you physically have to pull the arm out of the pedestal some? thats my problem, i can reach it just fine (im kinda skinny in the arms) but i don't have the HP to pull it out of the pedestal far enough to get it over onto the nipple. Can i just adjust it out?
i fired the truck last night after discovering this and manually pulled the valve closed some and there was a HUGE change in idle sound and a loud *** whistle out the tailpipe. this is not normally the case, but i can't tell obviously because im driving. Do you think under boost the exhaust is closing this flap? It was very hard to move by hand with the truck running, nice and easy with it off.
Thanks.
i fired the truck last night after discovering this and manually pulled the valve closed some and there was a HUGE change in idle sound and a loud *** whistle out the tailpipe. this is not normally the case, but i can't tell obviously because im driving. Do you think under boost the exhaust is closing this flap? It was very hard to move by hand with the truck running, nice and easy with it off.
Thanks.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
The only way that I can get that control rod to reconnect with the lever is to use a pry bar under the shoulder of the tip.
Pry it out so that it is long enough to re-attach to the lever.
It will take several attempts to get everything to line up just right.
Then put a E-clip on it to hold it in place.
Pry it out so that it is long enough to re-attach to the lever.
It will take several attempts to get everything to line up just right.
Then put a E-clip on it to hold it in place.
Posting Guru
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If your are talking about the shh sound when it shift's that's normal, when you open the air and exhaust flow. About the rod, we are talking about the one on the bottom of turbo pedestal if so you should be able to put current on it and make it move, and i don't know how it would have come off in the first place.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
If your are talking about the shh sound when it shift's that's normal, when you open the air and exhaust flow. About the rod, we are talking about the one on the bottom of turbo pedestal if so you should be able to put current on it and make it move, and i don't know how it would have come off in the first place.
The rod is pushed out with oil pressure controlled by the solinoid.
.
And yes, I think the spider has to be removed.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: IOWA
Try a pair needle nose vise grips to get a hold of it and pull it out.
Without that hooked up, it allows your valve to do whatever it feels like.
Without that hooked up, it allows your valve to do whatever it feels like.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Hot Springs Village, Ar
Banks instructions for reattaching rod----
" to reconnect the exhaust backpressure control valve, hold the cover on the end of the rod back and have someone start the engine. When the rod extends after a few seconds, push it up onto the valve linkage and allow the cover to snap back into position. WARNING! Stay clear of moving parts such a engine cooling fan and belts.
This does work!!
" to reconnect the exhaust backpressure control valve, hold the cover on the end of the rod back and have someone start the engine. When the rod extends after a few seconds, push it up onto the valve linkage and allow the cover to snap back into position. WARNING! Stay clear of moving parts such a engine cooling fan and belts.
This does work!!
Last edited by Calli; Aug 26, 2010 at 02:51 PM. Reason: spelling
4000 rounds a min
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Albemarle NC
Will be so much easier to put back in place with the spider removed. I clamped a pair of Vicegrips on the rod and just pulled like H*** set the valve tab back twards the Turbo it may help a little.
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From: IOWA
It's purpose is to aid warm up in cold weather by closing creating more back pressure. It's not really needed, I gutted my pedestal and removed the flapper, haven't missed it in our cold weather.
Someone may have removed your turbo previously and forgot to hook it up, it can be easily forgotten.
Someone may have removed your turbo previously and forgot to hook it up, it can be easily forgotten.
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Senior User
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From: Upstate NY
AWESOME!!!! Ripped the spider off and got it hooked up. My problem with hooking it up was that the valve nipple was hitting the actuator rod. I had to use a prybar to pry the actuator rod underneath the nipple, then i was able to pry the rod out a little and clip in by hand! Took the truck out for a ride and that was definitely the cause of the whoooosh sound! Awesome! Now I just need to order a pigtail and i'll connect that to a switch. Thanks guys!!
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