I have a 73 F-100 Explorer, 302, 3 on the tree, long wheel base...

It has the plain trim in the dent...very nice but i think i'm going to delete it...is it worth anything?

I am not sure my hubcaps are correct but they aren't in bad shape and they are definately from the era. Again are they worth anything?

In everyone's PERSONAL opinion is it best to customize the truck or keep it original?

Three on the tree is fun..but not easy for everyone else that might drive the truck since i have the kit should i swap to 3 on the floor?

My block casting is D2CE or it might be D2OE...i know ford used blocks throughout so could this still be the correct block?

I have iron heads...i hear alot that early 70's heads where better because it was before the time of emissions is this correct?

I've read through the tips and tricks sticky thread on here and found it helpful. I also enjoy that this forum has a high amount of traffic so it's not hard to get info...really like this place so far.

 

come on guys i know someone has to know something or have an opinion.

 

Probably because you are trying to sell everything off of your truck.

And your general engine questions can be answered in .02 seconds on Google.

Josh

 

The plain trim (no vinyl applique) is relatively hard to find. Dennis Carpenter's catalog doesn't even have'em and all the rigs I see have the vinyl.

Stock or modified. Depends. What do YOU want? If it were nearly cherry then it would be an easy to undo any mods or redo to stock...if it's already modified or in rough shape then the decision to modify it would be already made. Time. Money. Effort. Enthusiasm. Patience... your call.

 

i'm not trying to sell anything but i wanted to know. cause if i can make some money off of it when and if i delete it it'll be better than taking up space or scrap. it's just the plain aluminum kind. this stuff is in good shape and i'm just not sure i'm gonna part with it.

And seriously i'm gonna do some custom stuff but i'm definately gonna get some real wheels not steelies with hupcaps so it's scrap i just didn't know if someone may want them for a restore or something.

the block numbers are throwing me off because some sites and my ford book say that D2OE would be for Fairlane/Torino but c would be a truck engine...i will have to check again but i'm fairly sure its an O but could it just be a block that ford had...is there anything else to tell if it's a truck engine?

It just seems wierd to me that these heads are considerably good to have such small looking ports for the exhaust.


FYI i use google as well as other forums and loads of literature and i always like other opinions.


as for the customizing i'm running into a problem time,effort, and enthusiasm are all there but the money isn't (laid off) i don't much care for having a butt load of power it just needs to sound good and look decent. and of course i want it to run like a top.

another problem i'm having with the whole custom or stock look is it's a joint project with my fiancé and she has her own opinions we had both been wanting a good ford project. and had looked at several. so even needing work it was worth it for both of us as a good bonding time... and i got rid of the crapmaro i had been working on that was junk.

 

Personally I'm keeping my 77 F-250 original. The reason I bought a 77 Ford is because thats what I want. However, I don't take away from anyone who likes to customize their rig. I've seen some very nice customized dents on here. Like aother people have mentioned to each is own. You have to figure out what you want to do.

 

There were no Fairlanes after 1970 and D2OE is the bare block (only) casting number prefix for Passenger Car/F100/Bronco & Econolines.

There was no such thing as D2CE. Casting numbers cannot be cross referenced to actual Ford part numbers.

D1TZ6010B .. Cylinder Block / Applications: 1971/73 302 ALL Passenger Cars/F100's/Bronco's & Econolines.

 

Change it or keep it original is up to you. I have a 74 F250 Crew an I am mainly keeping it stock but adding the options for it from that year to it an changing the color to a color from that year an adding the stripes from that year. An will be adding roll bar bull guard & visor to it. You could do something like that a little bit of stock & make a few changes to it as well an keep it looking like from that era. You might want to check out cardomain for some ideas as well.

 

There's nothing great about the heads or a "must keep" that's for sure. Switch up to aluminum (AFR, TFS, Edelbrock) if you want to start making power. If you are going to spend your hard earned cash on heads pick something from the above group, don't waste your time with GT-40's, an ancient design that can't keep up with the other heads. If you feel the need to stick with cast iron then use the Dart series.

Of course a little bowl work and some port cleanup with the stockers will net you slightly more power but nothing that will knock your socks off. Really depends on which direction you want to take. Do you want a hot small block or something docile you can drive everday? You have to make the choice!

 

A lot of different opinions on the GT40 irons and heres mine. It just depends on your goal and budget. I've bought several sets of GT40 iron heads for $200 per set and have had the cars dynoed. My personal builds with junkyard fresh GT40s make about 330hp. Can't beat it for the price. Not everyone wants to spend $1000 to $2000 on a set of heads. I've got $2000 in the ported Canfields on my 1992 Mustang but thats not for everyone, its not even for every one of my builds. I just bought another set of GT40s about 2 months ago, I actually like them.

And to the OP, I would keep the 3 on the tree if it were me. My first truck was a 1977 2wd F-150, 300 with 3 on the tree. I liked it!

 

Of course not one of us asked which camshaft he was thinking of using to go with said cylinder heads

Won't make the difference worth the effort if the stock cam stays in it!

 

when i had my 78 fairmont i used a 351 cam that essentially changed the 302 to a 302 h.o. and used the H.O. firing order. i may go that route..in this build i'm not exactly looking for 400 HP i just want a healthy running engine that will do the job.


number dummy i think you mean that it was just a generic casting from ford. is that right or could you clarify?

 

The same 302 bare block (D1TZ6010A) was used in all 1971/73 FoMoCo vehicles...that came w/a 302.

People here on FTE go ga-ga over block/head casting numbers that cannot be cross referenced to Ford part numbers.

Casting numbers don't usually mean diddly squat, because in most cases cannot be used to determine what size the engine is, or the vehicles the block/head was installed in.

 

[quote=Flat_Ford;9268262]when i had my 78 fairmont i used a 351 cam that essentially changed the 302 to a 302 h.o. and used the H.O. firing order. i may go that route..in this build i'm not exactly looking for 400 HP i just want a healthy running engine that will do the job.

If you are content on using a stock cam then stick with the heads you've got. If you are able, do a little bowl work and gasket matching on your heads especially the exhaust. Anything you can do to the stock heads to improve outgoing airflow is a bonus to you. It will make a difference, not a lot but some. Good heads are only going to do so much to boost an engines power without the right camshaft. If you are only looking for a good running engine, stick with stock pieces. They'll get the truck down the road okay.
Another option for you is to bolt on a set of 1.7 rockers when you do your H.O. cam swap. Again not a big difference but some!

There are many, many healthy good running 400hp motors out there (you can hop in a showroom new truck with more than that), just because they are breathed on doesn't make them any less reliable when built properly. Makes driving tons more fun too!!

 

right now i'm having carb issues but it was running pretty good earlier today....

I wanted to adjust my distributor a little but the dissy is stuck..i pulled the hold down completely off and tried to turn it but it wont budge. i cleaned the crud from around it and even pecked it a little but it won't budge..anyone have any ideas?