Dim dash lights
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2010
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Dim dash lights
Ok I went in to my 85 f150 yesterday and cleaned all the contacts on the circuit behind the dash cluster and bulb sockets, replaced all the bulbs with new ones and now they all work, problem is the dam thing is so dim I can hardly read the speedo , read the other gauges, forget it!, I'm thinking it's the head light and dimmer switch assembly, what say ye? anybody else ever have this problem?
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
It could be the dimmer unit.....but the blue plastic lenses over the dash bulbs darken with age & block a lot of the light.
I took mine off - it makes a big difference if you don't mind the white lights. Some guys remove the plastic lenses, then fit blue colored bulbs
I took mine off - it makes a big difference if you don't mind the white lights. Some guys remove the plastic lenses, then fit blue colored bulbs
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 666
Likes: 5
Another possible problem is that the colored plastic domes that the bulbs fit inside often darken with age. Most of mine are a chocolate brown rather than the nice green they started out as. I can barely see the dash lights. I am getting ready to pull the dash and remove the domes. I am going to switch to LED replacements.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
Those colored covers can make a huge difference in how well the dash lights work. I swapped the cluster in truck for one that came from a relatively low milage truck, and I couldn't believe the difference.
Many people pop those off, and then use either red or green tinted bulbs, available at most parts stores. Those who have done this, reported a huge difference in visibility.
Many people pop those off, and then use either red or green tinted bulbs, available at most parts stores. Those who have done this, reported a huge difference in visibility.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,271
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From: Mexia, TX
Also agreed on the bulb covers making a difference. My truck's original non-tach gauge cluster had some that were so brittle, one of them disintegrated in my hand when I squeezed it just a little (I was just observing it to see how it was made). Then just recently I picked up a very nice tach cluster from a junkyard, and it had absolutely perfect bulb covers. They're still like brand new, and let a ton of light through.
I ended up pulling the covers on my tach cluster though, and put in red 194s....it takes a little getting used to since it's a darker color, but it's very bright and easy to read, and looks great. The white lettering really stands out! I've heard it helps with night vision too.
I ended up pulling the covers on my tach cluster though, and put in red 194s....it takes a little getting used to since it's a darker color, but it's very bright and easy to read, and looks great. The white lettering really stands out! I've heard it helps with night vision too.
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Freshman User
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all these comments make sense, thanks fellas, I take it that the domes are under the plastic that the circuit board is mounted to, must be easy to remove?
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Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Yes,. Well, kind of... they're behind the gauges and are accessed from the front once you
remove the gauge bodies themselves (which are held on at the rear).
remove the gauge bodies themselves (which are held on at the rear).
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Mexia, TX
The speedometer is held in by two small hex-head screws on the back of the cluster. You can remove three of the five covers after removing the speedometer. Another tip, in order to remove the cluster from the dash, you have to disconnect the speedometer cable. You grab the white plastic cover where the cable connects to the gauge and press on the tab with your thumb. It should pull right out.
If you remove either the fuel gauge or the water temp gauge, you can remove the remaining covers. Each of the smaller gauges is held in with two small metal nuts on the back of the cluster. Be careful removing these, since they're also what connects the gauge to the circuit film.
If you remove either the fuel gauge or the water temp gauge, you can remove the remaining covers. Each of the smaller gauges is held in with two small metal nuts on the back of the cluster. Be careful removing these, since they're also what connects the gauge to the circuit film.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: South Jersey
The speedometer is held in by two small hex-head screws on the back of the cluster. You can remove three of the five covers after removing the speedometer. Another tip, in order to remove the cluster from the dash, you have to disconnect the speedometer cable. You grab the white plastic cover where the cable connects to the gauge and press on the tab with your thumb. It should pull right out.
If you remove either the fuel gauge or the water temp gauge, you can remove the remaining covers. Each of the smaller gauges is held in with two small metal nuts on the back of the cluster. Be careful removing these, since they're also what connects the gauge to the circuit film.
If you remove either the fuel gauge or the water temp gauge, you can remove the remaining covers. Each of the smaller gauges is held in with two small metal nuts on the back of the cluster. Be careful removing these, since they're also what connects the gauge to the circuit film.
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Freshman User
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Thanks fellas, I've already have had the cluster out completely when I did the check and cleanup/ replacement of the bulbs, looks like this weekend it comes apart again and separated to get to those tinted hoods, gotta go, I'm thinking red bulbs should do just fine!
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern California
Light bulb Industry number: 194-G is a good replacement bulb after you remove the plastic light filters as they are the stock color. Other colors are also avaliable.
194-G = Green
194-B = Blue
194-R = Red
194-NA = Amber
194 = white
194-LL = white, long life
The primary colors of light are Red, Blue and green, just like on your television. (RGB) All colors of light, and white can be made by mixing these three colors.
The plastic filters block the red light coming through them leaving blue and green. This leaves the stock blueish green look to the light. It also blocks the brightness of the bulb by 1/3. This is also why if you repaint the needles on your gauges you need to use a florecent red or flourecent orange. If you use regular paint the needles will look black, with stock color backlight, as there is no red light to reflect the red paint back. Florecent paint glows with any color light energy so that's why you can see flourecent red, even without red light being present.
hope this helps...
194-G = Green
194-B = Blue
194-R = Red
194-NA = Amber
194 = white
194-LL = white, long life
The primary colors of light are Red, Blue and green, just like on your television. (RGB) All colors of light, and white can be made by mixing these three colors.
The plastic filters block the red light coming through them leaving blue and green. This leaves the stock blueish green look to the light. It also blocks the brightness of the bulb by 1/3. This is also why if you repaint the needles on your gauges you need to use a florecent red or flourecent orange. If you use regular paint the needles will look black, with stock color backlight, as there is no red light to reflect the red paint back. Florecent paint glows with any color light energy so that's why you can see flourecent red, even without red light being present.
hope this helps...
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,271
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From: Mexia, TX
Thanks fellas, I've already have had the cluster out completely when I did the check and cleanup/ replacement of the bulbs, looks like this weekend it comes apart again and separated to get to those tinted hoods, gotta go, I'm thinking red bulbs should do just fine!
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