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So I lost pressure in my high pressure oil, did the normal diagnosis with AE and then pulled the IPR. So far, everything was in specs, the IPR looked great. So tonight I bit the bullet and pulled the high pressure oil pump.
So far the pump itself is intact, the oil discharge tube looks good and all orings seemed in place. So given I was building a whole 190 psi while cranking, the pump is probably hosed even though it turns freeley and no noticeable noises, missing parts, etc.
So my question is does someone know of a way to bench test these pumps? How can I know the reman'ed pump I'll get from FORD will be any good too? I have read numerous posts of people buying pumps to put them in and then have to pull them because that pump was bad too.
Also while removing the HPOP, the oil smelled like differential fluid. Does anyone know why this would smell like that? My oil change only had about 1000 miles on it when it died on me...
for what its worth all the pumps Ive put in Ive never got a bad one for a 6.0 and only one on a 7.3L
you dont bench thest the pump. you have to dead head test the pump by pulling both valve cover off and installing block off tools on the lines to the rails. Then moniter icp while cranking you should see about 3500- 3800 psi.
Also while removing the HPOP, the oil smelled like differential fluid. Does anyone know why this would smell like that? My oil change only had about 1000 miles on it when it died on me...
FWIW Dk, and I know that this probably isn't worth a lot, but maybe it will make you a bit more comfortable, when I had my HPOP replaced, the mechanic had me drop by his place while he had it apart, and showed me that while the old pump felt fine, and turned freely and all, the new pump actually felt like there was some amount of resistance when you turned it, like it would actually pump something. In other words, it would have been really hard to tell that anything was wrong with just the old pump on the bench, but there was a lot of difference between the old and the new. Hope it helps a little! And really, good luck. Mike
Which is why I think I am where I am....when I did the oil cooler, I didn't have the some of the exhaust properly lined up with the turbo and there is soot on the HPOP cover so I assume maybe I "cooked" it.
I have the new one and a new IPR so we'll see if that fixes the problem.
for what its worth all the pumps Ive put in Ive never got a bad one for a 6.0 and only one on a 7.3L
you dont bench thest the pump. you have to dead head test the pump by pulling both valve cover off and installing block off tools on the lines to the rails. Then moniter icp while cranking you should see about 3500- 3800 psi.
I read that in the service manual but given the pressure was weak HOT or COLD and the soot on the cover I went with the pump (crap shoot). I know, I know I should have followed the specs but the adapters your talking about are expensive when I last checked $250+. Do you know a cheap place to get some or a method rigging some up for the poor man?
FWIW Dk, and I know that this probably isn't worth a lot, but maybe it will make you a bit more comfortable, when I had my HPOP replaced, the mechanic had me drop by his place while he had it apart, and showed me that while the old pump felt fine, and turned freely and all, the new pump actually felt like there was some amount of resistance when you turned it, like it would actually pump something. In other words, it would have been really hard to tell that anything was wrong with just the old pump on the bench, but there was a lot of difference between the old and the new. Hope it helps a little! And really, good luck. Mike
That is the same thing I am seeing too. They both spin freely BUT the new ones makes some actual suction while the old one wouldn't make any at all...now this was with my fingers plugging the holes so take it for what its worth.
Don't forget to replace the 3C3Z-9T288-AA discharge tube along with the updated 3C3Z-9G805-AA high pressure oil pump cover (that comes with a new IPR valve installed in it for less than the cost of the IPR valve alone), if you're in this deep already. The updated cover has a machined channel in the under side of the cover to prevent the tube from eventual rub through where it curves.
So thought I would post the results of the pump change...
Everything is back together and running like a top (knock on wood). I put about 150 miles on it and it is running very, very smooth.
My thoughts are this that when I did the previous oil cooler rebuild, I must not have had the downpipe completely lined up. On the intake was soot and also on the pump cover. The smell of the oil in the pump compartment smelled burnt which I am assuming may have lead to the premature failure of my pump, but no one will know for sure until someone goes to rebuild the core.
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