When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
pull off wheel
pull off the caliper
pop off the spindle cover
take off the spindle nut
pull off the rotor
pop out old seal
tap old outer races out of rotor
(Jetwash rotor if properly equipped)
tap new outer races into rotor
tap new seal into rotor
Pack new bearings with grease
place new bearings in outer races
Put rotor back on spindle
spin nut to 0 lash (hand tight)
lock nut with cotter pin (or possibly bendover tab on washer...I haven't taken one of these apart yet)
tap spindle cover back on
replace wheel
drive
Certainly sounds easy enough, pretty much what I remember from doing them on my old 78 F100 and what I thought it should be. Kept reading about how entire hubs had to be replaced and needle bearings with flat spots but figured that was more for the 4x4 guys
Had the truck in for something else and the (insert your own word for crook or bandit or extortionist or ??) service writer guy at the shop was telling me it was a $900 - $1,000 job. And that it needed to be done right away. Sounds more like what, $75 - $100 worth of parts and 2 hours to me...
Exv - could certainly try the repack first, what else might give play? I would try jacking the front end up and lifting on the wheel to see what play I find.
I am out of town right now and not able to pop the wheel off for a look. If "pop" describes 8 torqued nuts and a 70lb wheel/tire! Just trying to gather a little info for a future Saturday.
I know you will do this but pack and install back bearing before installing seals, and it could be the slop might mean ball joint time, they could cause slop in the assembly.