Removing lug assembly
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Removing lug assembly
The lugs on the right front of my 2007 F-350 4WD are galled and need to be replaced (don't ask.). I have removed the caliper assembly, and try to remove the rotor, but it won't budge. I thought of removing the 4 nuts on the back side of the lug/rotor assembly and pull it all off as one unit, but it still won't budge. The only thing I can think of is if I want to remove the lug assembly, the hub will need to be disassembled. But as far as I know the rotor should come right off after the caliper is removed. However, nothing is budging. I've tried WD-40, tapping, shaking, twisting, hitting, etc...and nothing is working. What am I missing?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
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From: Breckenridge, TX
The rotors tend to rust on really badly on these trucks. There's really not a great way to do it; beating on it can damage the bearings and the rotor, heating it will damage the rotor, prying on it can damage the bearings, etc, etc, etc. If you're going to save the rotor, just beating the tar out of it with a rubber mallet is probably the best option, it'll come off eventually. Or try to punch out a few studs with it still on.
Once you get the rotor off, all you should have to do it use a c-clamp and some blocking and the studs will pop right out. Or you can hit them with a mallet, but again, there's a chance of damaging the bearings whenever you beat on stuff.
Also, WD-40 doesn't do crap on stuck parts, it's just a water displacement deal. Use Kroil or PB Blaster, those are actual penetrating oils that will get down into the rust.
Once you get the rotor off, all you should have to do it use a c-clamp and some blocking and the studs will pop right out. Or you can hit them with a mallet, but again, there's a chance of damaging the bearings whenever you beat on stuff.
Also, WD-40 doesn't do crap on stuck parts, it's just a water displacement deal. Use Kroil or PB Blaster, those are actual penetrating oils that will get down into the rust.
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The rotors tend to rust on really badly on these trucks. There's really not a great way to do it; beating on it can damage the bearings and the rotor, heating it will damage the rotor, prying on it can damage the bearings, etc, etc, etc. If you're going to save the rotor, just beating the tar out of it with a rubber mallet is probably the best option, it'll come off eventually. Or try to punch out a few studs with it still on.
Once you get the rotor off, all you should have to do it use a c-clamp and some blocking and the studs will pop right out. Or you can hit them with a mallet, but again, there's a chance of damaging the bearings whenever you beat on stuff.
Also, WD-40 doesn't do crap on stuck parts, it's just a water displacement deal. Use Kroil or PB Blaster, those are actual penetrating oils that will get down into the rust.
Once you get the rotor off, all you should have to do it use a c-clamp and some blocking and the studs will pop right out. Or you can hit them with a mallet, but again, there's a chance of damaging the bearings whenever you beat on stuff.
Also, WD-40 doesn't do crap on stuck parts, it's just a water displacement deal. Use Kroil or PB Blaster, those are actual penetrating oils that will get down into the rust.
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Ok, so it looks like I need to pound on the rotor to get it off, which I should be able to do. Now, to get the lug assembly off so I can get the lugs replaced, does the hub need to come off first? If so, is there any surprises I should look out for? Special tools needed? Any advice? I have removed the hubs on a 2WD truck before, but never a 4WD. The hubs on my truck are manual.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 350
From: Breckenridge, TX
You should be able to line up the back of the studs with the gap in the dust shield and press them out without pulling anything else apart. It'll be tight, but if you can see the back of the stud go for it.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 599
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From: PA
Texastech has it right. Use the Kroil and give it some time to work. That stuff will work it's way into one one millionth of an inch. Best, CB
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Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
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From: Breckenridge, TX
It's honestly harder and takes more tools to pull the hub and bearing assembly than it is to pop out the wheel studs. The last hub I was inside was a 2003, so I used Guzzle's needle bearing page as a guide, and I could have pressed out every stud without pulling it that far apart.
You really only need a c-clamp, and a half dozen washers large enough to fit the stud through to replace them yourself. The studs are only pressed into the assembly, a whack with a hammer is enough to pop them out (that's generally thought to be a bad idea, but it does work). Drill a 1" hole halfway through a 2x4, put the block and fixed end of a c-clamp behind the stud, screw down the other side of the clamp onto the stud, and pop, out it goes. To install, tap it in just to start it, slide some washers down the stud to protect the backing plate from marring, and use a deep socket/impact to pull the stud into place.
To pull the hub you'll at least need a reseal kit, and a lot more technical experience.
Guzzles guide, not really applicable to an 07, but you'll when you can push the studs out in the pics:
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/nblube.php
EDIT: I finally found the stud replacement thread I was thinking about this whole time. The guy calls it a one-beer job, I'd give it 3, but I like beer
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...placement.html
You really only need a c-clamp, and a half dozen washers large enough to fit the stud through to replace them yourself. The studs are only pressed into the assembly, a whack with a hammer is enough to pop them out (that's generally thought to be a bad idea, but it does work). Drill a 1" hole halfway through a 2x4, put the block and fixed end of a c-clamp behind the stud, screw down the other side of the clamp onto the stud, and pop, out it goes. To install, tap it in just to start it, slide some washers down the stud to protect the backing plate from marring, and use a deep socket/impact to pull the stud into place.
To pull the hub you'll at least need a reseal kit, and a lot more technical experience.
Guzzles guide, not really applicable to an 07, but you'll when you can push the studs out in the pics:
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/nblube.php
EDIT: I finally found the stud replacement thread I was thinking about this whole time. The guy calls it a one-beer job, I'd give it 3, but I like beer
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...placement.html
