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how do i verify if is open or closed. i started it today and i did see what i asoom is the wastegate on teh exhast side of the turbo move within in 3-5 sec of starting is that right
ok so why dont they have a waste gate i thought all pre veritable vane turbos had some sort of a waste gate. well deprogrammed the truck and its a little scary it holds the rpms longer and under heavy accleration no smoke and defently not much go go oh and its the hypertech power programmer 3 and seems close to the same richness
well the ebpv is working, which is good, did you ever get to check your fuel pressure? on the driver's side of the fuel bowl you will notice a little black cap that looks like a valve stem cap, that is where you check your fuel pressure, you can use a regular tire pressure gauge to check it, but just as a warning, after you use it to check the fuel pressure it probably won't be much good after that. you will want fuel pressure to be more than 50 psi. let us know what you find, and if it is low, search for the "bb mod" there are several great threads about how you can use a 3/16 bb to up your fuel pressure.
every one says the custom tune is the best but im not sure what i need i mean the one i had i am used to and ok with i just dont want to mess anything up on the motor i do plan to once i get into some more money to up grade the fuel system,intercooler, inhectors and most of all the tranny. i try to read on the custom tunes and i get confused with all the options
well drove her some more tonight and not rich any more smells like the old farm tractor now plus wiats till 40 instead of 35 for over drive and the off the line pep os gooone im not trying t drag but wow what a difference oh and with the programmer when first started she a a slite rough ilde/lope for the first 10-15 sec thats gone
Yeah those programmers aren't any good.
Congrats on getting your problem solved.
The general consensus for begining modifications is this:
1) Air Intake - most like the 6637, but IMO if you plan on building a truck that makes 30-35 psi boost like I do, then I don't think its enough. I will be going with the EaAU4095 from Amsoil.
2) Downpipe- the stock one just plain sucks. MBRP, I wouldn't reccomend. I've heard good things about Diamond Eye.
3) Gauges- Bottom Line, you get what you pay for. Stay away from Glowshift.
thanks ive been wanting gauges just havent wanted to bite the bullet since i didnt realy have much mods but knew i better when i start modding. im going to see how my mpg is now it runs higher rpms till i get cruising. i do miss the smoke under heavy acceleration and the off the lign pep but oh well. cowmilker what is your ebpv switch and fpr
The EBPV switch is using the back pressure valve on the exhaust side of the turbo as a exhaust brake with a manual switch. The FPR shim is the bb mod.
With the custom tunes it depends on what you want to do with it. High idle tunes will help it warm up faster in the winter, lower hp tow tunes are for towing heavy loads and will change shift points and keep egt's down, high hp tow tunes are more for lighter towing, economy tunes will give less fuel and upshift sooner to keep rpm's down, smoke tunes just dump a bunch of fuel at low boost, whisper mode makes the engine run quieter but it can also make it smoke kinda funny, lope idle just makes it lope while idling, and performance tunes have more fueling and shift points set up for racing and such...
With stock injectors you can only get about 60-70hp above stock, so the 100hp+ performance tunes won't really help you that much, you'll notice a difference but you won't have all the power.
On my PHP chip I have Stock, 1200rpm high idle, 35hp heavy tow, 60hp economy, 100hp performance, and 140hp extreme. That basically covers anything I need and it cost me less than $400.