Hi everybody.

Just got back from the machine shop with some good news, and some that I would definitely put much more towards the questionable category. My 77 400 block (MCC, but August of 77) has no cracks, and is only worn about .005" in the bores, and has never been overbored before. My rods are also salvagable. I'm pretty happy about all that, and am very glad to fiiiinally have some answers on this project.

What I'm not so thrilled about though, of course, is the price. The machine shop charged me 130$ to clean the block, cam, crank, rods and pistons, push out the old bearings and plugs, magnet check the block, check the rods for deformation, and measure and inspect everything. That sounded like a fair price to me (correct me if that's wrong), but the plan he put together for me for the rest of the engine, and it's pricetag, sort of knocked me back.

For a .030" overbore, recond. the rods (+ new bolts), all new bearings including cam (installed), a new crank (needed), new pistons and rings, the pressing in of those pistons, a new oil pump, freeze plugs (installed) and a gasket kit for the entire engine, and all the associated labor, he wants 1,200.90$.

Like I said, that was a pretty big suprise for me. I was thinking right around 750$ for machine work, bearings, and a crank kit, but I may have been wrong with that figure (and I wasn't including all the rest of the stuff in his price), so what I'm asking you guys is, is that a fair price for all that work?

Whether or not I go for this will be a seperate topic. I have 2 cracked heads, this is going to be a ton of money, but just give me your opinions on that price, and I'll get to the other stuff after that.

Thanks, AleX

 

Get the machine work done,and build the short block yourself.Do you know what you expect from this engine?There are many performance parts and kits for these engines.Did not used to be that way.Are you after a mild or hot street engine?Are you wanting to go back stock?I think you have a pretty good deal on the basic machine work,but you can do much better on the internal parts.You will save money by building it yourself,and gain some much needed experience.Folks on this site will help you through the build.

 

Ya I figured I would do all the building myself, but thought that he might be able to order cheaper parts.
I think he wants 520$ for all the machine work, which does sound reasonable, but another question I have is, with .005" wear, do I even need a rebore?
And to answer your questions, I'm trying to build a very durable engine that I can have fun with. I love to spin the tires and that's just how it is. I'm not trying to race the truck, and it needs to be an all season daily driver, but I like to have fun in it. I was very happy with the level of performance I got from adding a 4 barrel, performance cam, new timing set, and heavy valve springs, but wouldn't mind a little more (planning to do with some flat top pistons), but don't want to go as far as aftermarket heads.

 

Have you looked at the Tim Meyer site?Has a whole section devoted to Cleveland(335series)design.Look at the TMI/KB2347 pistons he offers.They are 9.5:1 compression with stock heads and combustion chamber volumes.And yes,while I was in there,I would start with fresh cylinder bores.You already have a carb and manifold,you need some compression and a cam.Stock heads will work fine for what you want,and there are some gains to be made with them without breaking the bank for a race type port job.Make a parts and price list,see what your budget can stand.Don't take shortcuts on purchasing parts,buy quality the first time.

 

Your bore wear is minimal and although it is nice to start with a fresh bore, you DO NOT have to over bore to .030. Try to leave as much meat in the cylinder walls as possible. Talk to Tim Meyer and buy a set of his .020" over bore pistons and only go .020" if possible.