I think the time has come to put my old 390 back together again, despite its problems. Currently it is a short block with an oil pan bolted on, and nothing else. Since I've never done this before, any tips or tricks for doing it?

Sam

 

I like to put a small dab of rtv in the corners where the intake manifold meets the heads and block and around the distributor hole. Also when you torque the heads I go no less than 30 lb increments and do it in one smooth motion until your torque wrench clicks.

 

Ok, thanks.

Also, any ideas on how to remove the vibration damper spacer? I managed to get the timing cover off over it, but I'm not going to be able to put it back on with out damage to my new seal...

Sam

 

I suppose you could use a puller.

 

The problem is the spacer goes right up against the lower timing gear, so there's no-where to get a grip on it...

Sam

EDIT: I just spent several minutes searching the forum, found the answer.

 

Ok good, I thought you were talking about the actual balancer.

 

I got the spacer off finally, and began re-assembling the motor. Turns out I need some sealant for the head gaskets, so, back to the store.

I read on here that FE's have a problem with the oil pump drive shaft falling out? I don't know what it it looks like, or what to look for... I went out and took a picture of where I think it goes, maybe some one can help me out.
http://a.imageshack.us/img52/3388/p1010825p.jpg


Sam

 

Im not sure abort fe motors but most v8's oil pumps are driven off the bottom of the distributor.

 

Yes, that oil pump drive shaft is exactly where it goes - It might not be fully into the pump though, so put a socket on it and rotate it counterclockwise and see if you get oil pressure.

 

Yes, dont forget the sealant at the corners of the manifold and the heads.

 

I got it back together! And it runs! After we finally got the timing right it rumbled into life, revved, idled and didn't stop until I turned it off! The intake manifold is proving to be problematic though... The gasket surface where the carb bolts to it is pitted bad enough to cause a gas leak. The pitting is too deep to smooth out with a file, so might there be any way to smooth it out using some sort of filler? Or should I just forget about it and get a junkyard manifold?

Sam

 

JB Weld if the hole is big enough, or RTV if it's not. But if it were me, it might be worth milling it.

 

I'll try the JB Weld, I'd like to see if I can get away with fixing it without removing the intake. Thanks!

Sam

 

Try rtv first, its eaiser to remove than jb weld. Put down a thin layer and stick the carb gasket to it and let it cure for 24hrs then bolt your carb on.

 

Is there a special RVT that is gas resistant? I've learned that rvt + gas = big mess, but that was regular rvt (the blue kind for water pump gaskets, etc.)

I tried the socket on the oil pump drive, big problem though, because the socket is now stuck in there very snugly, and the top is flush with the top of the hole its in, with nothing sticking up to grab onto... I tried for and hour or more trying everything I could think of, didn't do a thing... I just put a liberal amount of super glue on the end of an extension and stuck it in there to cure overnight, I hope that'll do it... If anyone one to test their oil pump, a good idea would to be to use a deep socket so at least you could clamp some pliers onto it to get it out.

Sam

p.s. will it damage the pump if it gets rotated clockwise?