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Hi guys - I finally have my truck on the road; well driving in the neighborhood anyway. My upper steering shaft bearing was shot, so I replaced it with a new one from Ford. The new one has a small white cone that slips on the steering shaft and fits on the inside of the bearing. It keeps slipping up on the shaft as I'm driving, and lets the steering wheel wobble as it was doing before I replaced it. I have an after market steering wheel and had to fabricate a turn signal cancel cam, so I don't know if originally those may have held that little cone in place? I'm pretty sure I replaced them correctly, but maybe not - now I'm second guessing myself. I also noticed that the steering shaft really wants to lean toward the passenger side and is pretty stiff to center, don't know if that's normal or not. Thanks for any input.
Hi guys - I finally have my truck on the road; well driving in the neighborhood anyway. My upper steering shaft bearing was shot, so I replaced it with a new one from Ford. The new one has a small white cone that slips on the steering shaft and fits on the inside of the bearing. It keeps slipping up on the shaft as I'm driving, and lets the steering wheel wobble as it was doing before I replaced it. I have an after market steering wheel and had to fabricate a turn signal cancel cam, so I don't know if originally those may have held that little cone in place? I'm pretty sure I replaced them correctly, but maybe not - now I'm second guessing myself. I also noticed that the steering shaft really wants to lean toward the passenger side and is pretty stiff to center, don't know if that's normal or not. Thanks for any input.
The bearings and cones are adjusted by setting the lower retainer (rides on the steering shaft anove the flange for the rag joint) in conjunction with adjustment of the column tube (adjusted at the dash). Find steel cones as this is what is used. The later plastic ones come in to play with collapsable columns and will wear.
The bearings and cones are adjusted by setting the lower retainer (rides on the steering shaft anove the flange for the rag joint) in conjunction with adjustment of the column tube (adjusted at the dash).
Find steel cones as this is what is used. Uh huh...
The later plastic ones come in to play with collapsable columns and will wear. (sigh)
Open your parts catalog, kiddo: Text, Section 35, Page 12: B1AZ3518A is correct and it's plastic. There is nothing else listed for the OP's application.
I know it's plastic cuz I sold a gazillion of these since it also fits 1965/67 Mustangs. I also replaced the retainers/bearings in my truck several times.
If you had a 1957/63 catalog, B1AZ3518A is listed in Text, Section 35, Page 10 and fits 1961/63's and 1957/60's as well.
There was no such thing as an F Series collapsible steering column until the 1980's, and these used different bearings and RUBBER retainers.
The bearings/retainers are the same as 1981/97: Escort/Lynx/Tempo/Topaz.
Dave, you may have taken a gazillion of these trucks apart, but if you found steel cones...they weren't there originally.
I don't have the part numbers with me, but the new parts match perfectly. My truck is a '62 - I don't think it has a rag joint. I kept the metal cone and it's currently in place of the new plastic, but both keep slipping up the steering shaft.
I have never taken a poly bearing taper out of a stock 61 to 66 truck column. Don't care what the parts book sez. Of the hundred or so i have parted,, sold or given away they were all steel, and this includes the 65 and 69 i have on hand. I have not run in to the polys until collapsible Safety shafts in columns i scrounged from LTDs.
I assumed, DW you had a 65 66.
Fix your cab mounts. As this is causing movement of the cab. The steering shaft is one piece on your 62 and is attached to the frame. The Column is attached to the cab and moves causing the issue you describe. No amount of adjustment will fix it if the mounts are bad.
There is a bit of play built in as there is no lower bearing only a rubber sleeve/seal and an upper spring to dampen minor movement.
Once the cab mounts are verified as fixed, then adjust the column at the dash to 1/16th inch gap between the steering wheel housing and the shift collar. The inner heavy spring provides the tension for this adjustment and it goes between the wheel and bearing. The steering wheel nut holds it all together.
I concur fully with Bill...these bearings and sleeves are used in a gazillion different applications...I just wish the cost was a little less on the wallet as I am in need of a pair of both myself...thier failure is what killed my horn...cut or grounded out the wire...continuity checker confirmed that.
If you can afford to buy an elephantine sized behemoth of a Crown Vic Country Squire...then have it shipped from NEW JOISY (or wherever on the east coast you bought the tub) to Seattle...
You can well afford to spend less than 15 bucks for both parts. Otherwise, put on shabbier clothes than usual, then head to Pioneer Square with a tin cup in your hand and a sad look on your face.
btw: Who was prez the last time you took your '65 out and drove it? Prolly Bush, as in George Herbert Walker!
Hi guys - I finally have my truck on the road; well driving in the neighborhood anyway. My upper steering shaft bearing was shot, so I replaced it with a new one from Ford. The new one has a small white cone that slips on the steering shaft and fits on the inside of the bearing. It keeps slipping up on the shaft as I'm driving, and lets the steering wheel wobble as it was doing before I replaced it. I have an after market steering wheel and had to fabricate a turn signal cancel cam, so I don't know if originally those may have held that little cone in place? I'm pretty sure I replaced them correctly, but maybe not - now I'm second guessing myself. I also noticed that the steering shaft really wants to lean toward the passenger side and is pretty stiff to center, don't know if that's normal or not. Thanks for any input.
I am also in Spokane and would take a peak at it for you to help you out...
I have 3 of these trucks.
I have pulled apart a bunch of these trucks and none had PLASTIC pieces. The 1977 I pulled apart did though.
I put in a updated style bearing from Brown Bearing
Yeah, there's no lack of grease in that new bearing for sure. Thanks for your inputs - Garbz, I did have to replace the front driver side cab mount - wish I'd have known about this issure prior to that! Boss gimme a call 324-1824 Thanks again guys!
wow...those prices are ALOT less then what I was told by a local dealer...I was told each was in the area of 20 clams...
somehow I bet I got some cluck who doesnt know how to read a cpmputer screen or book when I was told that...
BTW, I had mine out in regular use some time ago...it is not too safe...has a R kingpin Im amazed hasnt failed...its been a good 2 years or so...too too long...I need a good workout...a reason I love driving it...armstrong steering :-)
wow...those prices are ALOT less then what I was told by a local dealer...I was told each was in the area of 20 clams. Where have you been, kiddo? Doncha know that most dealers are notorious for jacking up the prices?
MSRP: Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price.
Suggested, which means the dealers can charge any 'ol price they want to.
somehow I bet I got some cluck who doesnt know how to read a computer screen or book when I was told that. Somehow I bet you got some cluck who was paid on commission!
The retainer has been those same prices for quite awhile.
When I saw the MSRP for the bearing, I almost had apoplexy!
When I priced one out several months ago the MSRP was $3.45
Now, I'll betcha you're sorry you didn't buy the parts several months ago.
And, you have no excuse, you wanna know why? All you need to do, is type the part number into Ed's website to get the ACTUAL MSRP and discount prices.
In case you forgot...FTE sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM = Ed Olson, Parts Manager of Horizon Ford in Seattle (Tukwila) WA