What is this.. nut thing?
#49
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Posts: 7,437
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Be careful beating on the old bearing, the chips that fly off WILL penetrate skin, I've got a chunk of one stuck in my finger, still there 20 years later. If you cant get it off take your angle grinder and slowly grind down throught the bearing, go just down to the spindle then try to spin it with a chisel
#50
#54
hey I did a ball joint in my 1999 E-150 and this post was pretty helpful. It get's good about three comments down. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...all-joint.html. Good luck!
#55
#56
Trike1946,
Thanks for the reply.
6/08/04
1998 Ford E-150 4.6L V8 60,000 Miles upper ball joint loose.
I went to Autozone and bought upper and lower ball joints, about $40.00 total + tax. They loan you the ball joint press and the ball joint separator by just leaving a deposit. Here is the procedure to replace the joints. Also note that the ball joints are pressed into the spindle assembly. Yes that’s right “pressed into the spindle assembly”. Jack up, PLACE JACK STANDS FOR SAFETY, remove wheel, remove brake caliper and hang out of the way. By removing the brake caliper you will have more room to work the joint press around the spindle. Loosen/remove upper ball joint claming nut, remove the snap ring on the bottom of the lower ball joint (the upper joint did not have a snap ring), remove lower ball joint cotter pin and loosen nut (do not remove nut all the way yet), use separator fork to separate lower ball joint, the spindle should separate from the axle and drop onto the lower ball joint nut that you did not totally remove, block up the spindle assembly with whatever you have available so that it will not fall to the ground (it will be hanging by the tie rod anyway but you don't want to damage the steering rods), remove the lower ball joint nut, using the ball joint press remove the lower ball joint (an air gun on the press nut works best for this), I was replacing both upper and lower joints and I am unsure if you can get the upper one out without taking the lower one out first, now remove the joint press screw from its c-frame and position the c-frame with the appropriate bushings/sleeves on the upper joint, reinstall the press screw by feeding it through the lower ball joint hole as the c-frame is now captured within the spindle, crank the screw to remove the joint (air gun again), clean up all of the mating surfaces on the spindle so that the new joints will seat properly, install the upper joint using the press, install the lower joint using the press, one problem I had here was that the lower ball joint protrudes about 1/4" from the bottom of the spindle and the press plate does not allow for this, I had to make another pipe sleeve that was about 1" long (rather than the approx 2" long one that the press has) so that the c-frame would fit over all of the pieces, with the existing sleeves all of the pieces do not fit between the press, this pipe sleeve allows the joint to protrude as necessary to seat the joint properly and allow the snap ring to go on. The pipe is a standard size that I had laying around and I was able to just cut a piece in my band saw. Install snap ring. Clean up the upper ball joint receiving sleeve and reinstall lightly but don't put the bolt in just yet. Bring the spindle assembly with the new ball joints up into the lower axle hole and put the nut on the lower ball joint. Tighten this up and just allow the upper ball joint receiving sleeve to ride up in its hole. Install the lower ball joint cotter pin. Now tap down the upper joint receiving sleeve down onto the upper ball joint stud and install a new clamping bolt (supplied with new ball joint) and tighten. Install the GREASE FITTINGS AND GREASE EM UP yahoo!! and reassemble brake caliper etc. It took me 2 hours to do this including making the new press sleeve. Not for the weak of heart or mind but fairly simple. The ball joints are Perfect Circle parts and fit perfectly.
Disclaimer, this info is based on my experience and is written for my own personal reference for future maintenance and posted here for armchair mechanics. If you have any doubts about your mechanical ability to complete a task such as this please consult a professional mechanic for your maintenance needs.
Sincerely submitted,
Rick D.
(Massachusetts)
Thanks for the reply.
6/08/04
1998 Ford E-150 4.6L V8 60,000 Miles upper ball joint loose.
I went to Autozone and bought upper and lower ball joints, about $40.00 total + tax. They loan you the ball joint press and the ball joint separator by just leaving a deposit. Here is the procedure to replace the joints. Also note that the ball joints are pressed into the spindle assembly. Yes that’s right “pressed into the spindle assembly”. Jack up, PLACE JACK STANDS FOR SAFETY, remove wheel, remove brake caliper and hang out of the way. By removing the brake caliper you will have more room to work the joint press around the spindle. Loosen/remove upper ball joint claming nut, remove the snap ring on the bottom of the lower ball joint (the upper joint did not have a snap ring), remove lower ball joint cotter pin and loosen nut (do not remove nut all the way yet), use separator fork to separate lower ball joint, the spindle should separate from the axle and drop onto the lower ball joint nut that you did not totally remove, block up the spindle assembly with whatever you have available so that it will not fall to the ground (it will be hanging by the tie rod anyway but you don't want to damage the steering rods), remove the lower ball joint nut, using the ball joint press remove the lower ball joint (an air gun on the press nut works best for this), I was replacing both upper and lower joints and I am unsure if you can get the upper one out without taking the lower one out first, now remove the joint press screw from its c-frame and position the c-frame with the appropriate bushings/sleeves on the upper joint, reinstall the press screw by feeding it through the lower ball joint hole as the c-frame is now captured within the spindle, crank the screw to remove the joint (air gun again), clean up all of the mating surfaces on the spindle so that the new joints will seat properly, install the upper joint using the press, install the lower joint using the press, one problem I had here was that the lower ball joint protrudes about 1/4" from the bottom of the spindle and the press plate does not allow for this, I had to make another pipe sleeve that was about 1" long (rather than the approx 2" long one that the press has) so that the c-frame would fit over all of the pieces, with the existing sleeves all of the pieces do not fit between the press, this pipe sleeve allows the joint to protrude as necessary to seat the joint properly and allow the snap ring to go on. The pipe is a standard size that I had laying around and I was able to just cut a piece in my band saw. Install snap ring. Clean up the upper ball joint receiving sleeve and reinstall lightly but don't put the bolt in just yet. Bring the spindle assembly with the new ball joints up into the lower axle hole and put the nut on the lower ball joint. Tighten this up and just allow the upper ball joint receiving sleeve to ride up in its hole. Install the lower ball joint cotter pin. Now tap down the upper joint receiving sleeve down onto the upper ball joint stud and install a new clamping bolt (supplied with new ball joint) and tighten. Install the GREASE FITTINGS AND GREASE EM UP yahoo!! and reassemble brake caliper etc. It took me 2 hours to do this including making the new press sleeve. Not for the weak of heart or mind but fairly simple. The ball joints are Perfect Circle parts and fit perfectly.
Disclaimer, this info is based on my experience and is written for my own personal reference for future maintenance and posted here for armchair mechanics. If you have any doubts about your mechanical ability to complete a task such as this please consult a professional mechanic for your maintenance needs.
Sincerely submitted,
Rick D.
(Massachusetts)
So that's how you do it...
#58
Are you sure about that? It's not that way on my IFS D50 with ball joints, the spindle is
a separate, removable item (although removing it isn't exactly the most intuitive thing in
the world to do). I'll admit to not thing Thing One about front ends with King Pins,
though....
a separate, removable item (although removing it isn't exactly the most intuitive thing in
the world to do). I'll admit to not thing Thing One about front ends with King Pins,
though....