'98 E-150 upper ball joint
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: NJ where fun comes to die
I don't know where you are from, but here in the arm pit of the country (New Jersey) we have parts stores that loan tools. I had to do the lowers on my 92. Had to use the tool. Good luck, it sucked.
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Trike1946,
Thanks for the reply.
6/08/04
1998 Ford E-150 4.6L V8 60,000 Miles upper ball joint loose.
I went to Autozone and bought upper and lower ball joints, about $40.00 total + tax. They loan you the ball joint press and the ball joint separator by just leaving a deposit. Here is the procedure to replace the joints. Also note that the ball joints are pressed into the spindle assembly. Yes that’s right “pressed into the spindle assembly”. Jack up, PLACE JACK STANDS FOR SAFETY, remove wheel, remove brake caliper and hang out of the way. By removing the brake caliper you will have more room to work the joint press around the spindle. Loosen/remove upper ball joint claming nut, remove the snap ring on the bottom of the lower ball joint (the upper joint did not have a snap ring), remove lower ball joint cotter pin and loosen nut (do not remove nut all the way yet), use separator fork to separate lower ball joint, the spindle should separate from the axle and drop onto the lower ball joint nut that you did not totally remove, block up the spindle assembly with whatever you have available so that it will not fall to the ground (it will be hanging by the tie rod anyway but you don't want to damage the steering rods), remove the lower ball joint nut, using the ball joint press remove the lower ball joint (an air gun on the press nut works best for this), I was replacing both upper and lower joints and I am unsure if you can get the upper one out without taking the lower one out first, now remove the joint press screw from its c-frame and position the c-frame with the appropriate bushings/sleeves on the upper joint, reinstall the press screw by feeding it through the lower ball joint hole as the c-frame is now captured within the spindle, crank the screw to remove the joint (air gun again), clean up all of the mating surfaces on the spindle so that the new joints will seat properly, install the upper joint using the press, install the lower joint using the press, one problem I had here was that the lower ball joint protrudes about 1/4" from the bottom of the spindle and the press plate does not allow for this, I had to make another pipe sleeve that was about 1" long (rather than the approx 2" long one that the press has) so that the c-frame would fit over all of the pieces, with the existing sleeves all of the pieces do not fit between the press, this pipe sleeve allows the joint to protrude as necessary to seat the joint properly and allow the snap ring to go on. The pipe is a standard size that I had laying around and I was able to just cut a piece in my band saw. Install snap ring. Clean up the upper ball joint receiving sleeve and reinstall lightly but don't put the bolt in just yet. Bring the spindle assembly with the new ball joints up into the lower axle hole and put the nut on the lower ball joint. Tighten this up and just allow the upper ball joint receiving sleeve to ride up in its hole. Install the lower ball joint cotter pin. Now tap down the upper joint receiving sleeve down onto the upper ball joint stud and install a new clamping bolt (supplied with new ball joint) and tighten. Install the GREASE FITTINGS AND GREASE EM UP yahoo!! and reassemble brake caliper etc. It took me 2 hours to do this including making the new press sleeve. Not for the weak of heart or mind but fairly simple. The ball joints are Perfect Circle parts and fit perfectly.
Disclaimer, this info is based on my experience and is written for my own personal reference for future maintenance and posted here for armchair mechanics. If you have any doubts about your mechanical ability to complete a task such as this please consult a professional mechanic for your maintenance needs.
Sincerely submitted,
Rick D.
(Massachusetts)
Thanks for the reply.
6/08/04
1998 Ford E-150 4.6L V8 60,000 Miles upper ball joint loose.
I went to Autozone and bought upper and lower ball joints, about $40.00 total + tax. They loan you the ball joint press and the ball joint separator by just leaving a deposit. Here is the procedure to replace the joints. Also note that the ball joints are pressed into the spindle assembly. Yes that’s right “pressed into the spindle assembly”. Jack up, PLACE JACK STANDS FOR SAFETY, remove wheel, remove brake caliper and hang out of the way. By removing the brake caliper you will have more room to work the joint press around the spindle. Loosen/remove upper ball joint claming nut, remove the snap ring on the bottom of the lower ball joint (the upper joint did not have a snap ring), remove lower ball joint cotter pin and loosen nut (do not remove nut all the way yet), use separator fork to separate lower ball joint, the spindle should separate from the axle and drop onto the lower ball joint nut that you did not totally remove, block up the spindle assembly with whatever you have available so that it will not fall to the ground (it will be hanging by the tie rod anyway but you don't want to damage the steering rods), remove the lower ball joint nut, using the ball joint press remove the lower ball joint (an air gun on the press nut works best for this), I was replacing both upper and lower joints and I am unsure if you can get the upper one out without taking the lower one out first, now remove the joint press screw from its c-frame and position the c-frame with the appropriate bushings/sleeves on the upper joint, reinstall the press screw by feeding it through the lower ball joint hole as the c-frame is now captured within the spindle, crank the screw to remove the joint (air gun again), clean up all of the mating surfaces on the spindle so that the new joints will seat properly, install the upper joint using the press, install the lower joint using the press, one problem I had here was that the lower ball joint protrudes about 1/4" from the bottom of the spindle and the press plate does not allow for this, I had to make another pipe sleeve that was about 1" long (rather than the approx 2" long one that the press has) so that the c-frame would fit over all of the pieces, with the existing sleeves all of the pieces do not fit between the press, this pipe sleeve allows the joint to protrude as necessary to seat the joint properly and allow the snap ring to go on. The pipe is a standard size that I had laying around and I was able to just cut a piece in my band saw. Install snap ring. Clean up the upper ball joint receiving sleeve and reinstall lightly but don't put the bolt in just yet. Bring the spindle assembly with the new ball joints up into the lower axle hole and put the nut on the lower ball joint. Tighten this up and just allow the upper ball joint receiving sleeve to ride up in its hole. Install the lower ball joint cotter pin. Now tap down the upper joint receiving sleeve down onto the upper ball joint stud and install a new clamping bolt (supplied with new ball joint) and tighten. Install the GREASE FITTINGS AND GREASE EM UP yahoo!! and reassemble brake caliper etc. It took me 2 hours to do this including making the new press sleeve. Not for the weak of heart or mind but fairly simple. The ball joints are Perfect Circle parts and fit perfectly.
Disclaimer, this info is based on my experience and is written for my own personal reference for future maintenance and posted here for armchair mechanics. If you have any doubts about your mechanical ability to complete a task such as this please consult a professional mechanic for your maintenance needs.
Sincerely submitted,
Rick D.
(Massachusetts)
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Joined: Jul 2003
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Rick, thanks a bunch . My front end on my 99 E150 with 75K miles feels loose and I will check it soon but how did you determine which ball joint. Did you just jack it up and shake everything or the wheel from side to side and top to bottom?
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loose front end components
Flatsboat,
There are several front end components that can contribute to a loose feeling front end. In my case I had repacked the front wheel bearings about a month ago at 55,000 miles, and as a matter of general routine after a wheel bearing repack I will, while the truck is on all fours, just push at the top of the tire to see if there is any wiggle. There was a distinct wiggle and then I jacked it up on the frame, grabbed the top and bottom of the tire and, with a jack stand in place, stuck my head in the wheel well and countinuing to wiggle the tire I could see the upper ball joint moving. There should be zero movement. Vehicles should be jacked up to check ball joints. Some of the other components that will contribute to a loose feeling front end; tie rod ends, steering arms, steering box, wheel bearings. These parts can be checked either jacked up or on the ground. Just grab each part and try to move it left to right and up and down. If anything is loose you will see it move. Make sure you have enough light to observe any movement. A partner helps.
Good luck,
Rick
There are several front end components that can contribute to a loose feeling front end. In my case I had repacked the front wheel bearings about a month ago at 55,000 miles, and as a matter of general routine after a wheel bearing repack I will, while the truck is on all fours, just push at the top of the tire to see if there is any wiggle. There was a distinct wiggle and then I jacked it up on the frame, grabbed the top and bottom of the tire and, with a jack stand in place, stuck my head in the wheel well and countinuing to wiggle the tire I could see the upper ball joint moving. There should be zero movement. Vehicles should be jacked up to check ball joints. Some of the other components that will contribute to a loose feeling front end; tie rod ends, steering arms, steering box, wheel bearings. These parts can be checked either jacked up or on the ground. Just grab each part and try to move it left to right and up and down. If anything is loose you will see it move. Make sure you have enough light to observe any movement. A partner helps.
Good luck,
Rick
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