When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am having trouble finding a master cylinder here in the republic of california; I can order one but I need to know if it is the correct one, or what I need?
Problem is brake pedal goes almost to the floor and I still have brakes. It does not seem to be leaking because the reservoirs are still full and non of the lines are wet.
I have been told it is the master cylinder; or the power booster or the proportioning valve. Where to start?
Any advice? I am trying to fix this this weekend it is my driver.
1973 F-250
360 motor w/2 bbl
C6 trani
4X4
Drums in all four corners.( Some day I will switch to disk for now I would like to fix this)
Thanks,
Mike
Have you checked the brake adjustment at all four wheels?
Even though these are equipped with self adjusting brakes its not uncommon for the adjusters to freeze up or just not work. Also, seeing as they only function when you back up, if you back up very little the adjusters wont function correctly.
also what is the feel of the brakes? if they are solid at engagement then i'd go with the adjusters, but if they never feel solid I'd go with master cylinder. The internal seals of the master can fail without the master actually leaking.
I have bled the lines and adjusted all 4 drums.
The pedal will just go down with very little resistance. The strange thing is when I am sitting at an idle I can pump the pedal about 5 times and you can feel it pump up and stay, it will not slowly go down.
When the pedal is pressed It will lock up the rear but the pedal is about 3/16" from the floor.
So it is sounding like the master cylinder.
Problem trying to find a master cylinder built in the USA all are made in china or mexico and we all know the garbage they put out.
Any suggestions? I have tried NAPA, Oreillies(Kragen), Auto Zone and I'm out of parts places in Ventura.
I am having trouble finding a master cylinder here in the republic of california;
I'm north of you by 400 miles and I have had brake issues on my 79 F350 very similar to yours. I went through 3 master cylinders before I went down to my local Napa store and purchased a MC.
I bench bleed the MC then installed it and bleed the whole system. I have had no problems ever since.
I have checked out our local and it would take 5 to 7 days from napa. And they are from some place called stop soft made in china. I guess they are all made somewhere else now. That is really a shame, for two reasons; one I don't want china garbage on my American Truck and two that means the jobs making them are no longer here. I would rather pay a little more and buy American than pay less and by junk.
I'm north of you by 400 miles and I have had brake issues on my 79 F350 very similar to yours. I went through 3 master cylinders before I went down to my local Napa store and purchased a MC.
I bench bleed the MC then installed it and bleed the whole system. I have had no problems ever since.
I got the first 2 from Pep Boys and they where OEM rebuilt. Pep Boys was very convenient because they are across the street from my work location. They didn't have them in stock and it took a few days to get it but I don't use my dent as a daily driver so it wasn't an issue with me.
They both failed within days and it took some troubleshooting to figure out that it was again the MC so I went about a mile from work to a Napa store. They had a brand new MC in stock and I was on my way!
I hear what you're saying about American Made and trying to use all OEM parts but today's global economy it's getting harder to find American made parts for our American made (Union made!) trucks.
might be able to order a rebuild kit from somebody and do the work yourself. The master isn't all that complicated. A light scuff with some sandpaper and some new seals and you're back in business. you'll need some snap ring pliers.
If you pull it and the connecting rod to the pedal linkage comes off with the rest of the master you're screwed though. I have no idea how those two are separated. I tried a winch and just bent the hook on the winch. (tried a lot of other things first of course) They simply won't come.
If it's any consolation to you most of the Mexico parts aren't china parts either. They're re-manufactured parts that likely came off of another ford truck. Since the job is easy you can get these for cheap and they should still have the ford oval cast somewhere on them.
I got the first 2 from Pep Boys and they where OEM rebuilt. Pep Boys was very convenient because they are across the street from my work location. They didn't have them in stock and it took a few days to get it but I don't use my dent as a daily driver so it wasn't an issue with me.
They both failed within days and it took some troubleshooting to figure out that it was again the MC so I went about a mile from work to a Napa store. They had a brand new MC in stock and I was on my way!
I hear what you're saying about American Made and trying to use all OEM parts but today's global economy it's getting harder to find American made parts for our American made (Union made!) trucks.
Yeah! This is what I am running into, Kragen has them and they are of course made in china. Wilwood makes one but it is over $200.
I don't know I also have just built a 1971 Honda CB 450K4 SS from the ground up all out of free parts. Talk about a chore, but I did it, so I can ride it and the best thing is $7.00 for a full tank of Super 76 and ride two weeks. My truck $60 on 87 unleaded and it is done in 5 days.
Do you remeber the Napa part number?
might be able to order a rebuild kit from somebody and do the work yourself. The master isn't all that complicated. A light scuff with some sandpaper and some new seals and you're back in business. you'll need some snap ring pliers.
If you pull it and the connecting rod to the pedal linkage comes off with the rest of the master you're screwed though. I have no idea how those two are separated. I tried a winch and just bent the hook on the winch. (tried a lot of other things first of course) They simply won't come.
If it's any consolation to you most of the Mexico parts aren't china parts either. They're re-manufactured parts that likely came off of another ford truck. Since the job is easy you can get these for cheap and they should still have the ford oval cast somewhere on them.
I know they aren't hard to rebuild, I rebuild and make parts all day long. When it comes to Brakes and things that could hurt me or kill someone else I would much rather have someone elses name attached to that if they fail. I will proably go with the chaineese crap for now and when I switch over to disk then it will all go. Shouldn't be more than 6 months before it is disk anyway.
BOWMAN SALES & SERVICE in Bowman ND has ONE = 701-523-3257.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has FOUR = 800-543-4959.
------------------------------------------------------------ D3TZ2004A .. Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit / Obsolete / Fits same as above.
DON SANDERSON FORD in Glendale AZ has THREE = 623-842-8762.
Napa part number is 39368. I'm just looking at the box and it says "Assembled in USA" and its made by United Brake Parts" for the Napa stores. Looks like ND has a great lead for you in your neck of the woods.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.