PVC is dangerous
I did try cutting at various spots on the removed PVC pipe and found that if the blade begins the cut, then the blade slides on through. If it is hard to begin the cut, the pipe seems to slightly compress, then the pipe cracks into at that point. Granted the cutting blade could be sharper, but all things being equal, the results should have been the same throughout the lengths of pipe.
I suppose the oil in the line could have caused the pipe to ‘soften’ and cut easier since it did begin to ‘break’ as I moved further away from the compressor. (The pipe was sch. 40, the compressor had not been run in several days and the temp. was around 50 degrees).
I have used copper for pneumatic conveyance and it has worked with no problems. We used standard 50/50 solder. Silver solder with "ACR" copper would be the best pick but less convenient.
Secondly, the warmer the temperature the less likely that you'll see fracturing in PVC. Too warm, and you'll see creep or plastic deformation without catastrophic failure.
An example of temperature range failures:
Take a plastic coat hanger and place it in the freezer for 1/2 an hour. Drop the hanger on the floor and watch it shatter. The major limiting factor for polymers (plastics) is their limited tepmperature operating range.
KingFisher
When we piped my garage, we ran about 70 feet of black pipe all over the place in order to keep the hoses off the floor, this included fittings outside the doors for any outside work. Now when you get bored, you can run a manifold around the perimeter of your garage for the cutting torches, this is done in 3/8 wall, 3/8 I.D. brass,(4000psi) so you can have the torches at a moments notice with out having a cart hanging around all the time. The tanks stay chained to the wall out of the way.
And if you say,'I dont really need torches', then your not really working on a ford truck.
the only time I've seen mention of problems with copper pipe was with joints very close to the compressor and the heat of the compressor transfering to the pipe causing the first joint to break loose under pressure... the fix was silver solder in that joint and then no other problems...
several boards have had threads on this subject and most agree with high quality soldered copper or steel with black pipe being first choice then galv. the reason for black over galv is the chance of the galv. coating flaking off and blocking an valve or air tool... same reason for black pipe for natural gas over galv... flaking and blocking an orifice...
don't let a few bucks keep you from being safe... one trip to the emergency room wipes out all your savings... and hope that's all !!
later
john
You can buy Black Gas Pipe at Lowe’s Home Improvement, and they will cut the pipe to any length for no extra charge. I have gone back to Lowe’s several times to get the pipe cut to exact dimensions, and that was never a problem they’ll cut it again.
To use steel pipe make sure you got a plan laid out first because threading pipe is a little tricky then other methods.
Old Diver
You might want to use galvanized pipe for the drop legs below the outlets since moisture collects in them.
jniolon- Thanks for that second link. I've wanted to fix up my air system and that site gave me a bunch of info! And gave me more reasons to use copper. With all the slopes I'll need the bending will be quicker. I better put a sign up to explain why everythings not plumb and level. I'm already anticipating the looks I'm going to get! Sure will be nice to paint something without worrying so much about water splatter.
Kind of off topic, but when cutting pvc, for water or other intended purpose, I've found using a metal cutting abrasive wheel on my Skil saw makes a cut thats almost factory and it's a fast cut. Just thought I'd mention it. A lot of people know about it, but I still see hacksaws and recip saws out there...
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Schedule 80 is a completely different animal. While I would use pipe if I did it again I wont be tearing out my existing system. This pipe is gray and has about 1/4" wall thickness. It has a working pressure of around 840psi. That's considerably more than the average air hose you would connect to it. It also only carries 100psi once in a while , hardly loaded. It is not subjected to extremes in temperature or ultraviolet light. It ain't the first time I've used something for a different purpose than it was intended. You might even find a couple of Ch*vy parts on my truck. It's been in place 15 years and I fully expect it to still be servicable when I'm dead.
Badea, badea that's all folks!
I need not try to convince anyone else, those that can learn, have.
Old Diver
http://www.lni.wa.gov/wisha/regs/wrds/wrd540.htm
There is a warning on the left side of the page under the NONO monkey...
My FTE Website Sorry still under construction...
This is the link to this info on the web:
http://www.osha-slc.gov/dts/hib/hib_...b19880520.html
There is a ton of info out there just use google advanced search and search on;
Any words: pvc pipe
Exact phrase: compressed air
And for you bear...This is the specs from a manufacturer of SCHED 80 PVC;
It says: NO COMPRESSED GASSES/AIR!
This file is in pdf format so you will need acrobat reader...
http://www.sunnyvalewindustrial.com/...80%20Specs.pdf
Last edited by Torque1st; Feb 22, 2003 at 08:05 AM.









