Thanks in advance for any help here, I am reading through all of the no start threads and looked through the checklist but I want to say what I did just before symptoms started to see if someone can help me narrow it down...

I was in a rush to get home last night and pushed the truck pretty hard, had the petal to the floor a couple of times (normally I dont drive like this at all). No trailer and no load at the time.

After I parked I was going to leave the truck running for a while to cool the turbo down but it was idling very rough and uneven (felt wrong, truck was almost shaking from the awkard idle)

I shut it off and tried to restart after a few minutes. turns over but nothing, then after 30 mins, then an hr, then this morning...still turns over but nothing.

-I dont have the ability to check codes
-batteries are good
-no smoke
-oil level ok and no leaks
-oil pressure comes up to normal when cranking
-coolant level ok, no leaks
-fuel filters were replaced 1k miles ago no issues
-glow plug indicator comes on like normal
-can hear fuel pump w/ key turned like normal
-air filter okay

tonight I plan to start w/
- pulling egr valve to check if stuck open
- reset emergency fuel cut off switch
- pull icp sensor? (once I find out where it is on an 05)

 

I would pull top off the engine fuel filter and make sure you have fuel flow with the key on. Also make sure the filter is not twisted or crushed.

ICP on an '05 is located in forward portion of the passenger side valve cover.

DSMMH

 

Check FICM voltage.

Some autoparts stores loan out code readers

 

I tried a few things the other night, I know when something is over my head so i had the truck towed to the dealership. Well theyre telling me ficm, ipr valve and hpop to the tune of $3350...seems odd (to me at least) that the truck was perfectly fine the day before ten all these parts fail. I did get a total of 5k trouble free miles out of it though.

Im going to ask them to give me the codes they found so I can spend even more time trying to figure out if they are trying to screw me before I go back into credit card debt to fix this

 

the place i went loans out code readers to take to your vehicle if its outside the store, couldnt rent and take home

 

IPR and HPOP on an 05 at the same time sounds wrong to me. Probably the STC fitting on the HPOP would be a good place to start as the HPOP's on the later model trucks are pretty bulletproof. FICM voltage can be checked with a volt meter at home for a preliminary diagnosis. A code reader of some kind is invaluable on these trucks and aren't that expensive compared to a visit to the dealership.

 

You have a good plan asking for the codes. It may turn out that they are correct, but I agee w/ npccpartsman, all that is a BIG pill to swallow.

Also, npccpartsman's advice on the code reader is SO VERY important! I guess my son was lucky - he got to take it home w/ a deposit at Autozone. At a good dealership (and there are many), they can actually save you money by doing the proper diagnostics (if you are not confident on the DIY approach). However, some (and I am sure it is a minority) dealerships just throw parts at it rather than doing the proper troubleshooting. That can empty a pocket book quickly!

Post back when you get the codes. Also ask them what tests they did to determine the IPR and HPOP were both bad.

I know it is more money to tow it somewhere else, and you would have to pay a diagnostic fee where it is, ......... but if you really are concerned about the diagnosis, I wouldn't blink an eye at towing it somewhere else.

 

heres what they gave me:

oil pump codes- 2290,2291,2285

"Injector Circuit codes"- all 8 codes (didnt give me #'s)

Said they did pressure tests on ipr and hpop.

Still a little puzzled b/c oil pressure did come up when cranking, maybe just not enough- and Im only going by the dash gauge

 

Not to hijack your thread, but I just had the hpop, fpr, passenger and driver side feed tubes replaced on mine...... $3800..... Now I have a no start condition with zero codes. Same thing it was doing before the repair.... I'm curious as to what ficm failure symptoms are. It won't start, but n occasion will start but only run a couple minutes at idle. I dare not try driving it. Anyones help would be appreciated as well. And as far as your problem goes. It sounds like they covered everything associated with the ficm hpop system and I doubt very seriously it's all of the components.

 

Your dash oil pressure is the low pressure oil system. Unless you have aftermarket gauges or diagnostic equipment, you can not get the HPO pressure reading.

Getting codes for all the injectors is common for a FICM issue, so that seems possible - even likely. The ICP seems to be bad. I would correct those and see what you have. I might even try an IPR replacement before I woud pay so much for everything. Replacing those components is relatively easy and you can find discounted parts from various sources.

HPOP's certainly do fail, but not as common as the other components. I will agree with npccpartsman (as usual) that the 05's frequent issues with the STC fitting on the HPOP discharge piping, make it a likely candidate.

I guess the bottom line is how much do you want to do yourself. If it really is all those things, the price isn't bad I guess.

 

If you're getting all eight injector circuit low P02** codes, then the FICM needs to be replaced without question. Now, that may not be THE cause of your present no-start situation. But if it isn't addressed, it can and WILL eventually become ANOTHER cause of a no-start scenario for you.

Regarding your P2285, P2290 and P2291, I agree with Mark. With high pressure oil system leaks, the symptom is usually a no-start when the engine reaches operating temperature. The P2285 is usually set on 2003 model years, with the ICP sensor under the turbo. That code is usually set when voltage being "seen" by the PCM is lower than expected. It may be possible to have set that code by unplugging the ICP sensor during testing. If the engine fails to start, regardless of engine temperature, I tend to believe the IPR valve is failing to close, allowing all oil to be exhausted back into the crankcase as opposed to being delivered to the high pressure oil rails. Again, I agree that the first step is to replace the IPR valve and test further. If the high pressure oil pump itself does indeed require replacement, I too would replace the IPR valve along with it, but not before just replacing the IPR valve first and doing further testing before I condemned the high pressure oil pump.

 

Want to say thanks to everyone for the input, this has been a somewhat frustrating overall experience but a good opportunity to learn some things.

I ended up having the dealership start on the repairs they suggested.

I did talk to them about replacing just the IPR before the hpop, but the more I discuss things with them the more comfortable I am with what they are telling me they've found a need to do, and I cant necessarily afford a return trip.

My next purchase will be a device that can read codes, and I plan to continue reading up on the 6.0 so that if I find myself in a similar situation in the future I'll be in a better position to diagnose and possibly resolve the more complicated fixes.

This forum has been a great discovery, It's good to know that there is a community here thats willing to help its members in any way it can with sound, experienced knowledge.