Hi everyone, does anybody out there know what the original seat height for a '42 Jailbar is? (from the floor to the top of the cushion) When I bought my truck the seat was missing, I was told the rats ate the upholstery and the frame thrown away . I'm in the process of nutting out an idea for a frame for the bucket seats to bolt to.
Thanks, Steve.

 

According to the 1942 showroom brochure it is 15.83 inches. Hope this helps you in finding a replacement seat.

 

Thanks for the info Gary, much appreciated, I bought a couple of bucket seats from a wrecking yard a few weeks ago and want to set them up at the original seats height.
Cheers, Steve.

 

hi,
I have a 1940 one ton, seems to be about the right measurement as well.

does anyone know if you can use a replacement bench seat instead? thinking maybe from a late model ford ranger pickup, or even a back seat from an expedition or explorer or suburban even.

I still have the old metal frames w springs, but they are too rusty - do you know anyone who can make a metal copy?

thanks,
mpr

 

I thought I have seen replacement springs in the catalogs, but that was many years ago. Glide Engineering does make a replacment seat, however it is not a reproduction but rather a new seat, modern syle springs, for the '40-'47 Ford trucks that looks very nice. I took some measurements from my '07 GMC Canyon (Chevy Colorado) and the seat is the same width, I wanted to try it in my '46, but the GMC got totaled so I never got a chance. But it is an option i might still look into.

 

gary,
you are right, I also think the colorado seats may fit, about 44 in wide...

i was planning on welding up a square steel tube base frame anyways - should get about 8-10 inches storage under seat... relocating the gas tank behind the rear axle..

I will try glide engineering first, my old frames are too far gone, need complete replacements, they are only good for a pattern and nostalgia, or a museum, but hey, they are older than me!

thanks,
mpr

 

If you aren't doing a restoration, I would think that making the seat whatever height is comfortable would be ideal, regardless of the OEM height. The OEM height makes a good starting point, but after that, do what works for you. Sometimes, you can trade height for legroom, and vice versa, if needed.

Just my 2 cents.

Dave

 

mprsox,
I am using a '93 ranger seat and have actually cut the drivers portion of the 60/40 seat base, back and the arm rest to size. I removed a section and welded back the outside of the back and base that is the arm rest portion. I also cut down the arm rest as well, to match the cut portion of the seat. On reassemble I actuall removed a section of the foam to match and glued it back together. I will also be cutting the seat backs across the top(formed wire) to lower the back to fall just under the window of my 47. I will then need re-upholster. I also started with mustang buckets on a plywood frame over the original gas tank and have removed all of that and I am planning to build a square tube frame to maintain a lower seat look inside and keep my head off the headliner. The ranger seat fit the rear cab width, but not the front portion as it narrowed at the mid door width. I didn't like the look of the s10 as it looked too plane compared to the ranger style with the armrest. I also moves forward a fair amount as the I utilized the seat from the supercab model prior to the doors being able to open, so the seat tracks were designed to allow the seat to move forward for entry when to you released the seat back. It now also gives me room in the corners to mount my 3 point seat belts without touching the seat corners.

It all depends on how much fab work you want to do and if you want to re-upholster when completed the mods.

 

Do make sure you have ample support for the upper seat belt support. It would do little good to have a front-end collision and have the upper support fail, allowing you to fly forward almost as if unrestrained.

Dave

 

Thanks for the reminder. It is my intent to weld in support to the 2 bars running between the rear window and door post before making up brackets to install as well as additional floor support for the receiver and roller mechanisms. You are right, without it there is not much support for the shoulder style belts and there is no sense using them for looks.