What did you do to the X today?
I've got maybe... 5K on 35" KO2s on my white 2WD and they are holding up fantastic so far. The 6.0 I just bought has 35" Toyo Open Country Xtremes and I don't notice a difference really... I like them both. So I'll wear one set out and store the other =P The white 2WD Ex is getting parked in my garage on cheap craigslist 265s LOL
Not just a 6.0 thing. Your typical gas engine automotive green or "universal" yellow is not sufficient for medium duty (box truck, school bus; which is what these engines were designed for) diesel engines.
Diesels will cause coolant without special additives to cavitate. Common green coolant does not have these additives so cavitation will occur and it will eat away at the block and put particulates into the coolant as well which are abrasive to the water pump and can clog oil coolers and egr coolers.
You can run green with SCAs but I'm betting if this place was using green to be cheap they didn't add SCAs necessary for a diesel. No problem for Cowboy because he's on top of it and he knew what he was getting in to.
Realistically at a minimum you want to run a G-05 HOAT (hybrid organic acid tech) coolant like Ford Gold or Zerex G-05 (I think it's Zerex...) which come with the SCAs already added.
The kicker about the green/gold with SCAs is they use silicates for anti-cavitation which works really really well, but it's also a delicate solution and must be maintained or the silicates can drop out of the solution and at that point they also cause abrasion and clogging.
The best option in my opinion is an OAT (organic acid tech) ELC coolant which has anti-cavitation properties without using silicates so you get the protection you need without it being tempermental. You can run it and forget it for 5 years.
Final thought, you can't really trust the color to tell you what the type is but I've never seen a green that wasn't just plain old green. Reds or golds you need to read the label, but green is green is green.
Diesels will cause coolant without special additives to cavitate. Common green coolant does not have these additives so cavitation will occur and it will eat away at the block and put particulates into the coolant as well which are abrasive to the water pump and can clog oil coolers and egr coolers.
You can run green with SCAs but I'm betting if this place was using green to be cheap they didn't add SCAs necessary for a diesel. No problem for Cowboy because he's on top of it and he knew what he was getting in to.
Realistically at a minimum you want to run a G-05 HOAT (hybrid organic acid tech) coolant like Ford Gold or Zerex G-05 (I think it's Zerex...) which come with the SCAs already added.
The kicker about the green/gold with SCAs is they use silicates for anti-cavitation which works really really well, but it's also a delicate solution and must be maintained or the silicates can drop out of the solution and at that point they also cause abrasion and clogging.
The best option in my opinion is an OAT (organic acid tech) ELC coolant which has anti-cavitation properties without using silicates so you get the protection you need without it being tempermental. You can run it and forget it for 5 years.
Final thought, you can't really trust the color to tell you what the type is but I've never seen a green that wasn't just plain old green. Reds or golds you need to read the label, but green is green is green.
Here's all the coolant info you could want for your 7.3L PSD.
Gooch's Coolant Flush Procedure and In-Depth Coolant Information - FTE
Stewart
Gooch's Coolant Flush Procedure and In-Depth Coolant Information - FTE
Stewart
Stone guards over cladding
Today I played with the idea if the factory stone guards would work over the factory cladding, I know depending on the trim level and original options, you got either or, not both. The new tires sling rocks and gravel from the road, and have caused some marks on the new boat.
Well, they actually work together well, I just had to dremel off the anchor tabs, and drill new holes along the bottom of the stone guards to match the original holes that the cladding used, and replaced the plastic speed anchors with black oxide u-clips, and screws.
Well, they actually work together well, I just had to dremel off the anchor tabs, and drill new holes along the bottom of the stone guards to match the original holes that the cladding used, and replaced the plastic speed anchors with black oxide u-clips, and screws.
Originally Posted by 01__Excursion
Today I played with the idea if the factory stone guards would work over the factory cladding, I know depending on the trim level and original options, you got either or, not both. The new tires sling rocks and gravel from the road, and have caused some marks on the new boat.
Well, they actually work together well, I just had to dremel off the anchor tabs, and drill new holes along the bottom of the stone guards to match the original holes that the cladding used, and replaced the plastic speed anchors with black oxide u-clips, and screws.
Well, they actually work together well, I just had to dremel off the anchor tabs, and drill new holes along the bottom of the stone guards to match the original holes that the cladding used, and replaced the plastic speed anchors with black oxide u-clips, and screws.
Stopped by body shop, my Ex has lots of new shiny parts attached to it. Had to reject the chrome grille (still in the shipping bag) and had them get a paint-to-match version!
Roof from Texas due on Monday! Hopefully getting back in a week or day or two more.
Really missing the Ex and it's PSD sound and torque.
Roof from Texas due on Monday! Hopefully getting back in a week or day or two more.
Really missing the Ex and it's PSD sound and torque.
Today I played with the idea if the factory stone guards would work over the factory cladding, I know depending on the trim level and original options, you got either or, not both. The new tires sling rocks and gravel from the road, and have caused some marks on the new boat.
Well, they actually work together well, I just had to dremel off the anchor tabs, and drill new holes along the bottom of the stone guards to match the original holes that the cladding used, and replaced the plastic speed anchors with black oxide u-clips, and screws.
Well, they actually work together well, I just had to dremel off the anchor tabs, and drill new holes along the bottom of the stone guards to match the original holes that the cladding used, and replaced the plastic speed anchors with black oxide u-clips, and screws.
That does look good, they go very well with the XLT cladding!
We are in full swing winter here, snow on the ground and staying there!
Next week they are calling for High temps in the single digits
The Ex saw some use this week and will coming up since the other half wrecked my Chrysler so when it goes into the body shop it will be back to DD for a little while. I love that I can just fire the Excursion up and it's ready to go anywhere any time
Next week they are calling for High temps in the single digits
The Ex saw some use this week and will coming up since the other half wrecked my Chrysler so when it goes into the body shop it will be back to DD for a little while. I love that I can just fire the Excursion up and it's ready to go anywhere any time
Was 17 degrees here last night, but luckily, very dry. Hoping I get another week or two (or more) of driving the Ex before they start covering everything with salt. I think last year I was able to drive it into the beginning of December.