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Replaced my rotted out shackles with 1" lift shackles
That sucked. Had forgotten how bad a job it was to perform. Ended up removing the axle from truck. Couldnt get things aligned until I went to ground zero. Will snap pics in daylight
I did that dance. I replaced all the B+ and battery cables before finally fixing it. Found lots of corrosion in the cables (positive AND ground) when I cut the insulation off. I also added additional grounds and another B+ cable to the driver's side battery when I replaced the stock cables.
My stock-output, lifetime warranty alternator from Autozone is holding out longer than all the others combined since I replaced the wiring.
Did you use a cable kit, OEM or home built? I recall seeing a thread on this or maybe it was in the "What did you do" thread. I've been wanting to replace the cables for a while, maybe now is the time. When I bought my HO alt, the guy was telling me to give the wiring attention as well.
PM Razzi ( Toreador_Diesel ) and ask about his Leece / Neville 230 amp (IIRC) NEW off Amazon. I was very close to buying the same one.
I forget how to do the [u tag] thing to get him to look at this. Can someone refresh me ??
Originally Posted by WE3ZS
I know that he is currently dealing with the flooding and other storm related issues down in TX, but maybe he could use a little distraction from all that mess. @Toreador_Diesel
Leece-Neville knows how to do monster alternators right! Nearly every large fire truck has one to handle all the lights, radios and assorted other do-dads, and in my 30 years with a busy suburban Dept I never had to repair or replace one.
[ utag ]members name[ /utag ] just remove the spaces inside the brackets.
I was bliwing theough alternators like crazy before getting this one. Found out my main issue was I had a short that developed in the harness that plugs into the voltage regulator, it kept frying them. You may want to play it safe and pick up a new one of thise as well.
Thanks guys. Im going make this first priority on the truck. New charging and ground harnesses and an alternator.
Did you use a cable kit, OEM or home built? I recall seeing a thread on this or maybe it was in the "What did you do" thread. I've been wanting to replace the cables for a while, maybe now is the time. When I bought my HO alt, the guy was telling me to give the wiring attention as well.
I replaced with OEM battery (+) harness ($92 @ RockAuto), OEM battery negatives x2 ($145 for pair)
to the engine, and I replaced the B+ with red, 4 gauge, high current, silicone sheathed cable. I added a B+ connection to the driver's side battery with the same red colored cable. I added a ground from the battery to the alternator case using black, silicone covered 4 gauge. Lastly, I added an 8 gauge black jumper from the driver's side block ground to the passenger side block ground (connected them together, essentially). The new B+ cables are fuse protected with 300 amp block to the passenger side battery, and 150 amp block to the driver's side battery. Why are they different? It was all I had at the time...
started roof rust correction...but then a storm surprised me. went ahead and covered the portion I'd sanded. hopefully it dries/sets before the rain starts.
I like this stuff. pretty thick out of the can, but spreads nicely/smooth. used less than 1/4 of the can for shown area. so I figure 2 quarts all said to do 2 coats.
started roof rust correction...but then a storm surprised me. went ahead and covered the portion I'd sanded. hopefully it dries/sets before the rain starts.
I like this stuff. pretty thick out of the can, but spreads nicely/smooth. used less than 1/4 of the can for shown area. so I figure 2 quarts all said to do 2 coats.
I like that look and congrats for you saving money doing yourself.
Finally decided to wire up the marker/turns in my tow mirrors. Only to find out the pass side has some crossed wires somewhere. The marker and the turn signal have continuity with each other at the plug end. So instead of risking breakage trying to separate the mirror housing, I put her back together and got a beer. Dammit.
started roof rust correction...but then a storm surprised me. went ahead and covered the portion I'd sanded. hopefully it dries/sets before the rain starts.
I like this stuff. pretty thick out of the can, but spreads nicely/smooth. used less than 1/4 of the can for shown area. so I figure 2 quarts all said to do 2 coats.
How would that stuff work on a vertical surface like bottom of doors, rockers, etc.?
Hey have you got any before and after pics of your body work and rust? I'm facing this right now. Just discovered I have a small finger sized hole through my drivers side rear rocker corner in front of the rear wheel and just a tiny one in the inner fender corresponding with the other hole. Also have the typical lower inner door seam rust. I want to kill this rust now but I kinda need some direction. Not interested in a complete respray of the X but leary on having metal replaced in these areas and just blended.
Sorry, no real before pics, but sounds like the same areas as mine. I had rockers pieces replaced and the rear corner fabbed and welded in. Then they blended in the paint and I am really **** about my truck and I was very pleased with the results. Hope this helps.
How would that stuff work on a vertical surface like bottom of doors, rockers, etc.?
if you applied thin layers and built it up using a roller...I think pretty good. The stuff has a very thick consistency, not runny like paint at all. don't think runs would be problem unless just slopped on
I was using a 2" paintbrush and going fairly thick. a foam roller is preferred, but I apparently ran out during last Wifey project and didn't know it
08-28-2017, 09:35 PM
