could some one please help
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could some one please help
I have a 1985 300 6cly ford box van e-350 I have replaced the dist cap and the roror cap and the pickup inside the dist and she still will not start I am getting no spark to the plugs and now none to the coil is it the coil or the modular on the fire wall thanks for your help guys buddyboy55
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thank you for responding are you saying the modular on the fire wall or the one inside the distributor I did replace the one inside already and you think the coil is not suspect even though I dont have spark coming out of it thank you
Last edited by buddyboy55; Aug 6, 2010 at 12:44 AM. Reason: bad spelling sorry
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TFI module, could be firewall or distributor. My '85 E150 was on the distributor.
If you have voltage to the coil, but nothing out, check connections, and maybe swap in a known good coil for a check out before you lay out $$ for a coil.
If you have voltage to the coil, but nothing out, check connections, and maybe swap in a known good coil for a check out before you lay out $$ for a coil.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,475
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From: Frequently frozen MN
One thing worth checking is the SPOUT. There's a 1 wire connector near the TFI module. They look different for different years, but it's only a single wire connector. It connects the computer to your TFI module.
If you disconnect that, and then you get spark, you have a problem with your computer. But, it could be a simple thing. The computers on most of these trucks are powered through a fuse and a relay. If there's a problem with the power and ground, it will cause this problem.
Another common culprit is the TFI module. These are about 2x2 and 1/4 inch or so thick. It will either be on the outside of the distributor or on the firewall. It has about 4 wires (can't remember for sure). Search for the term TFI, you should find a lot of information.
As for the coil, if you have a meter, you can make some checks. It should have 12v to it with the key on. You can also check the resistance between the various terminals. It should be quite low between the 2 smaller terminals, and a lot higher between the large lead and either of the other 2.
You should really try to get a manual. Your local library probably has a Chiltons or Haynes. You can also try going on line to autozone.com
If you disconnect that, and then you get spark, you have a problem with your computer. But, it could be a simple thing. The computers on most of these trucks are powered through a fuse and a relay. If there's a problem with the power and ground, it will cause this problem.
Another common culprit is the TFI module. These are about 2x2 and 1/4 inch or so thick. It will either be on the outside of the distributor or on the firewall. It has about 4 wires (can't remember for sure). Search for the term TFI, you should find a lot of information.
As for the coil, if you have a meter, you can make some checks. It should have 12v to it with the key on. You can also check the resistance between the various terminals. It should be quite low between the 2 smaller terminals, and a lot higher between the large lead and either of the other 2.
You should really try to get a manual. Your local library probably has a Chiltons or Haynes. You can also try going on line to autozone.com
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
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From: The Big, Oregon
85 E350 might have been non-feedback, depending on GVW it was most likely out of that emissions class.
Does the ignition module have a single five pin plug, or two plugs, one with two and one with four wires? Either module can be removed and brought to an auto parts store for testing. You should also disconnect the coil and test it with an ohmmeter. You should get about 14ohms across the primary (two small posts) and ~14kohms between the positive post and center tower.
Have you verified power to the coil as well?
Does the ignition module have a single five pin plug, or two plugs, one with two and one with four wires? Either module can be removed and brought to an auto parts store for testing. You should also disconnect the coil and test it with an ohmmeter. You should get about 14ohms across the primary (two small posts) and ~14kohms between the positive post and center tower.
Have you verified power to the coil as well?
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