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so my truck was hard to start blowing a puff of white smoke when it did start, i replaces the injection return lines and it is still the same, now what do i try?
8-10 seconds for the light.i just replaced the glow plugs also. i think the relay is starting to go because lhe light will be on and then it will click off and on about 3 times then go off and stay off. it just started this. would that cause it?
Controller is bad.... you can ohm test the plugs or just use a test light.... if it dont light up there bad..... but mine did that and the controller.... not the relay the controller was fried.... its a orielly part for 144 i belive people will tell you just to put it in a manual switch but me personally i like to keep things to OE spec if its a critical part that will make me money if i decided to sell it.... a working OE spec GP system will make you more money than telling your potential buyer well i unhooked that part of the system and now you have to push this other button and count to 8 or 10 and then turn the key cause the light wont come on to tell you
Once it starts does it run properly and stay running???
The puff of white smoke (along with GP controller activity) says test your Glow Plugs ...
If they are not Motorcraft/Beru ZD9, Toss them and replace with Motorcraft/Beru ZD9's ... Any other plug has a greater potential for serious engine damage.
*** Glow Plug Test. ***
Test light test of the glow plugs:
Unplug the Glow Plugs.
Attach one end of a test light to 12v+ battery.
Touch the other end to the terminal on the end of the Glow Plug (where you unplugged the harness)
Does it light up?
Yes, Chances are it's good.
No, Replace with Motorcraft/Beru ZD1A for 83-86, ZD9 for 87-94.5.
This test is susceptible to miss diagnoses and should only be used for a quick reference.
To do a positive test use a volt/ohm meter and test the ohms between the terminal and base. Should be .5 to 1 ohm resistance.
What Injector Installation Kit did you use???
Did you use Vaseline, Grease or Oil on the Tee o-rings???
batteries are 2 wks old with 980 cca and the motor spins as it should
why would the glow plugs click more than on and off?
yes i used Vaseline on the rings it was a pensicola diesel kit
so to test the plugs i un pulg the wire touch a test light to the tip and the other end to the pos of the battery with the key off.
i will perform these test tomm. eve and will let you guys know how it turns out
batteries are 2 wks old with 980 cca and the motor spins as it should
why would the glow plugs click more than on and off?
yes i used Vaseline on the rings it was a pensicola diesel kit
so to test the plugs i un pulg the wire touch a test light to the tip and the other end to the pos of the battery with the key off.
i will perform these test tomm. eve and will let you guys know how it turns out
The Glow Plug Controller is designed to cycle after the initial glow cycle, it's called after glow and it's to assist it to build heat after it's running.
When it cycles fast that is an indication of failed glow plugs.
Vaseline is good, I have found the Pensacola kit o-rings to be of poor quality with lots of flashing causing leaks, typically people toss them for Viton like these Viton Return O-Rings - McMaster-Carr Item 9464K24, Viton is impervious to Diesel.
However, if it starts and stays running for the first start of the day then leave the return system alone ... and consider yourself lucky!
Glow plug test, that is correct ... Unplug a GP and touch the GP terminal with the test light probe and the battery positive with the test light lead.
Originally Posted by 2005f-150
oh and yes it stays running properly. i got the rough idle cleared up with some diesel kleen.
So, On the first start of the day, once it starts, it stays running, Thats is good, you got lucky with them Pensacola o-rings.
the light comes on for 8-10 seconds then clicks off and on about 3 times rapidley then stays off.
If you mean the "light" blinks 3 times after the 8-10 glow period, thats not right. The controller should "click" rapidly for a few seconds after the light goes out but once it goes out the light should not come back on.
Three fast clicks and shutting off... meaning no more clicks is a bad controller, mine did the same thing and I went through all the tests mentioned above before giving up and spending the $140 on a controller. Now it works every time! In cold weather I get about an 8 second burn then it will start clicking (cycling) slow and will do that for up to 2 minutes if I don't shut off the key or start it.
so i tested the plugs and they all are fine.
now when i start it it is hard to start , then when it does start it dies right away then on the second try it is still hard to start but when it starts the second time it runs fine.
i think i got a small leak somewhere in the furl line because i have no preasure. any ideas?
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