Here's some info i got from Subford awhile ago about clearing codes. This worked for me after he suggested that removing the battery cable was not the best way.

"Do not disconnect the battery to clear codes as this will make thing worse and harder to find out what is wrong. The only time you disconnect the battery is if you replace a input sensor to the computer.

To clear all your codes just ground the STI wire and when the CEL starts to flash remove the ground and your codes will be gone.

But read your old codes first and write them down and then clear them. "

You did change a sensor but this is the quick way to remove any codes from before. This is just FYI

 

Well, got around to figuring out which solenoid gets connected to which port on the valves. Replaced the vacuum lines to both valves, ran engine till fully warmed, ran the KOEO self test and of course system passed. So on to the KOER test; ran it twice and both times it reported system pass
Oh but hold on, not so fast. I was looking at the right side of the motor and noticed that the PCV was disconnected from the valve cover. Ok, that explain the slight rough idle and a strange noise when I was warming up the engine.
Ok dummy (I said to myself), should cure the rough idle after hooking it up. It did! So I decided to re-run the KOER self test, and to my dismay, the freaking fault code 44 came back.
Can anyone explain why this would happen? The PCV is brand new, and the hose was repositioned to the side vacuum port on the upper manifold a while ago. Didn't check the PCV hose for blockage yet; not even sure if that would give a false PASS code.

Any idears out there? The next easiest thing is to test and/or replace is the solenoids, then the pump, and the last thing would be the valves (need to remove the upper manifold to get to it). Any help on testing these components would be greatly appreciated.

BTW also tested the vacuum reservoir and it has good vacuum out to the solenoids.

Ed

 

For anyone following this thread; did more tests as outlined in the service manual.

Output State Check; testing for STO voltage increase when throttle is depressed and released. Providing I did it correctly, and my DVOM was working right, it checked good.

Check Solenoids Electrical Operation; testing for solenoid circuit cycle of 0.5 volt or greater when throttle is operated. Same disclaimer as above, checked good.

Check Solenoids for Vacuum Cycling; utilizing a hand operated vacuum pump and gauge, checked to see if each solenoid cycled vacuum output On and Off while depressing and releasing throttle. Yup, seemed fine as far as I could tell.

Check Solenoids for Internal Vacuum Leaks; same vacuum procedure as above, but now checking to see if solenoids will hold a vacuum (without bleed down is what I'm assuming). Couldn't get the newly installed vacuum hoses off the solenoids so just connected the pump to the Tee that feeds vacuum to both solenoids, but tested one at a time by connecting a vacuum gauge to the output side (should've said this in the previous statement above). Both bled vacuum within a few seconds. So I'm thinking to just replace both. Hopefully that will fix the problem, just not sure how this would trigger a Code 44 (Thermactor Air Inoperative).

The way I see it, the EEC module only assumes that secondary air was sent as required by monitoring for completed circuit to either solenoid. It assumes that no air was sent if VREF voltage was not received (uncompleted circuit).
I would think that the electrical part of the solenoid would be faulty and triggering the trouble code. As you can tell, electronics isn't my strong point

 

Replaced both the TAB and TAD solenoids to correct the code 44, and for good measure, replaced the high milage O2 sensor also. I had the battery positive cable disconnected for at least a half hour. Ran both the KOEO and KOER test after running the engine at idle for about 30 minutes. I was discouraged because I was getting both a code 21 and 44 (still). So I decided to disconnect the jumper while it was in the EO test cycle. Ran the engine at 2000 rpm for a couple of minutes and then did the ER test; got the PASS code and was stoked.

But I wasn't about to celebrate just yet since it still needed to pass the State smog test. Did it this morning after getting a Moving Permit from DMV. Well it passed and then went straight to DMV to get the renewal. Guy at DMV hooked me up by allowing me to declare it "Inoperative" after the the expiration date, which saved me having to pay the 2-plus month late fee.

Ed