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Was the check engine light on all the time before it died? You might have to remove the speedometer/gauge assembly to access the light, if you can't get to it from below the dash. You might try feeling around up under there for it. Find a pic view of your speedometer cluster and see if you can figure which light is bad.
If you need the cat, they aren't that expensive to replace, compared to what the dealership charges for theirs.
Was the check engine light on all the time before it died? You might have to remove the speedometer/gauge assembly to access the light, if you can't get to it from below the dash. You might try feeling around up under there for it. Find a pic view of your speedometer cluster and see if you can figure which light is bad.
If you need the cat, they aren't that expensive to replace, compared to what the dealership charges for theirs.
I dunno, in CA for the 94 F350 with 7.5l they are over $400
OK. Check engine light bulb was ok but the little plastic holder wanted to be unscrewed then re-screwed into the cluster. Not too bad of a job, but the cluster does need to come out for that.
Light goes on with key on then off when running. Part one complete.
The O2 sensor doesn't look easy.....it's soaking in PB Blast.
Hope I don't need a CAT.
I heard that juicing with ethanol helps. Don't sound legal though.
Ethanol will help it burn cleaner. You can also go to your local parts store and get a can of guarantee to smog stuff.
On another note when your truck is upto running temp where is the temp gauge? I know it's a stupid question but on my dad's old 90 460 4x it ran so cold they had to put a piece of card board in front of the radiator to get it warm up enough of run leaner. I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see with my own two eyes.
Where are you located
It runs pretty cool I think. After it's warmed up, the gauge fluctuates from about 1/3 when the thermostat lets some water circulate then it drops to 1/4 or less, then the process repeats. Timing is correct at 10 BTDC, and it runs fine, so I'm hoping that sitting for months at a time is part of the problem.
High hydrocarbons suggests the mixture is rich, in your case it's just a little bit so the O2 could be the problem.. if it's original it long past it's best before date.
I did a complete tune up on my 2.3 ranger this weekend all 8 plugs wires new vac. Lines. Cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve blah blah blah. Anyway in the midst of the three trips to the parts house I was looking at a few threads here and they were talking about sea foam so I figured what the heck let's give it a shot. I pulled the vac. kine out if the booster and removed the valve and poured it in let it sit then fired it up and woo hoo what a smoke screen.
High hydrocarbons suggests the mixture is rich, in your case it's just a little bit so the O2 could be the problem.. if it's original it long past it's best before date.
HC is rich mixture. Also, since your CO is good, you do not need a cat.
T-stat is a good lead, as too cold leads to too rich as the engine computer thinks you are warming up.
Ethanol may or may not get you to pass, but won't fix a rich mixture situation that you will want fixed anyway.
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