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Failed CA Smog HC too high

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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 05:52 PM
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Failed CA Smog HC too high

1990 F250 Heavy Duty 5.8 with ZF 5-speed.

1) Check engine light is burned out. How is it accessed?

2) HC too high at 25 mph (135 ppm vs allowed 108 ppm).
The idle HC was right at the limit. NOX and CO were fine.

The truck is not driven regularly and has a camper on it.
I bought a new O2 sensor and will run a couple of tanks of fuel through it.

The CAT is original I don't want to change it unless I have to.

Any other suggestions?
Thank you!
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 06:11 PM
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Was the check engine light on all the time before it died? You might have to remove the speedometer/gauge assembly to access the light, if you can't get to it from below the dash. You might try feeling around up under there for it. Find a pic view of your speedometer cluster and see if you can figure which light is bad.

If you need the cat, they aren't that expensive to replace, compared to what the dealership charges for theirs.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Holmesuser01
Was the check engine light on all the time before it died? You might have to remove the speedometer/gauge assembly to access the light, if you can't get to it from below the dash. You might try feeling around up under there for it. Find a pic view of your speedometer cluster and see if you can figure which light is bad.

If you need the cat, they aren't that expensive to replace, compared to what the dealership charges for theirs.
I dunno, in CA for the 94 F350 with 7.5l they are over $400
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 07:00 PM
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OK, I'll tackle the cluster first and light first.
I have PB Blaster on the O2 sensor to soak.

The light worked 2 years ago the last time it (barely) passed....
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 08:20 PM
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OK. Check engine light bulb was ok but the little plastic holder wanted to be unscrewed then re-screwed into the cluster. Not too bad of a job, but the cluster does need to come out for that.

Light goes on with key on then off when running. Part one complete.

The O2 sensor doesn't look easy.....it's soaking in PB Blast.

Hope I don't need a CAT.
I heard that juicing with ethanol helps. Don't sound legal though.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 09:17 PM
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Ethanol will help it burn cleaner. You can also go to your local parts store and get a can of guarantee to smog stuff.
On another note when your truck is upto running temp where is the temp gauge? I know it's a stupid question but on my dad's old 90 460 4x it ran so cold they had to put a piece of card board in front of the radiator to get it warm up enough of run leaner. I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see with my own two eyes.
Where are you located
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 10:24 PM
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It runs pretty cool I think. After it's warmed up, the gauge fluctuates from about 1/3 when the thermostat lets some water circulate then it drops to 1/4 or less, then the process repeats. Timing is correct at 10 BTDC, and it runs fine, so I'm hoping that sitting for months at a time is part of the problem.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 10:26 PM
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Take it out on the freeway and blow it out. You can get some sea foam and try that as well.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 11:40 PM
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How long since you installed the right thermostat for the truck?

I know, but my 94 has really come to life since I put a new 195 degree thermostat in it.

I also agree with the Seafoam idea.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 08:17 AM
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Seafoam in the tank or main-lined?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 09:11 AM
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Just pour it in the tank and fill-er-up.

I had a funny remark about the main-lining, but figured I'd better just let it go.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 09:20 AM
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High hydrocarbons suggests the mixture is rich, in your case it's just a little bit so the O2 could be the problem.. if it's original it long past it's best before date.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 10:14 AM
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I did a complete tune up on my 2.3 ranger this weekend all 8 plugs wires new vac. Lines. Cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve blah blah blah. Anyway in the midst of the three trips to the parts house I was looking at a few threads here and they were talking about sea foam so I figured what the heck let's give it a shot. I pulled the vac. kine out if the booster and removed the valve and poured it in let it sit then fired it up and woo hoo what a smoke screen.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 12:12 PM
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Do factory 02 sensors have manufacture date on them? Mine has 012/013 stamped on the side.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Conanski
High hydrocarbons suggests the mixture is rich, in your case it's just a little bit so the O2 could be the problem.. if it's original it long past it's best before date.
HC is rich mixture. Also, since your CO is good, you do not need a cat.

T-stat is a good lead, as too cold leads to too rich as the engine computer thinks you are warming up.

Ethanol may or may not get you to pass, but won't fix a rich mixture situation that you will want fixed anyway.
 
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