I had a glow plug controller failure this weekend. When you turn the key the light would come on but would start cycling immediately and the plugs would not get hot. Made for very hard starting.

I bought a new controller (expensive) and installed it and had the same problem. Thinking that I had done something wrong with the wiring I made sure to check the manual.

It still wouldn't work. I removed the glow plug harness and looked for failures and found none. Checked for voltage and all four listed test points and all was good.

Now I am pissed and can not take the new (?) controller back for logistic reasons.

Then I remember some guys on ebay selling a kit to convert to manual control of the glow plug solenoid.

I have a new push button and some wire and a fuse block so I wire up the the solenoid for manual control.

It works great. Just push the button, the light comes on. count to ten and hit the starter. Varroom!

I think I should put in a relay so there is only power to the solenoid when the key is turned on but that is another story.

All in all it cost about $20

Any one see any problems with this arrangement except for the obvious that holding the button too long can burn out the glow plugs.

I may leave it like this instead of putting in a functioning automatic controller.

 

Same thing happend to me,,,,,I did the same thing you did,,,,,leave it like that,just remember not to hold it to long,and dont let anybody drive it without being schooled! What kind of GPs do you have?? If not Berous,,,change them !

 

im thinking the controller isnt the issue ,im wondering if you have a couple dead plugs.

 

First thing I did was check all the plugs and change 4 that I suspected.

That is why I suspected the glow plug harness.

I really did follow the book. Spent most of an afternoon just troubleshooting. I was sure I had done something wrong.

 

What year truck??

You could have done it for nothing or close to it had you asked here first ...

A couple pieces of wire, some wire ends and a push button switch is all it takes ...

But there is nothing better or more rewarding then a properly working UNHACKED system!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

The engine is in a boat and it is a 1991 IDI 7.3L

The big expense was a new push button switch.

I needed to get it running and now it works great.

I really do prefer unhacked systems but the new controller would not work either. The original had worked fine for years. I can't figure what went wrong.

I will put it back to stock when I get another controller.

The location was remote Alaska and there was no parts store to go to.

 

Hey, You gotta do what ya gotta do to get ya going ... I have no problems with that!

Typically when the controller cycles like that it's because of glow plugs.
If they are not Motorcraft/Beru, I highly recommend tossing them and installing Motorcraft/Beru's.

1 or 2 failed Glow Plugs will prevent the controller from working correctly because the controller works off the resistance of the Glow Plugs.

It should be a solid state controller that works on a grounding system.
If the wire colors are the same as on the truck, to hook up a manual button all you need to do is remove the white wire from the relay and ground the terminal on the relay that had the white wire. However being in a boat it could be different.

No power, No fuses, No Nothing but wire, wire ends and a push button.
Ground one leg of the push button, run a wire from the other leg to the terminal you removed the white wire from.

A top view picture of the installed controller would be extremely helpful.

*** Glow Plug Test. ***
Test light test of the glow plugs:

1. Unplug the Glow Plugs.
2. Attach one end of a test light to 12v+ battery.
3. Touch the other end to the terminal on the end of the Glow Plug (where you unplugged the harness)
   Does it light up?
   • Yes, Chances are it's good.
   • No, Replace with Motorcraft/Beru ZD1A for 83-86, ZD9 for 87-94.5.
   This test is susceptible to miss diagnoses and should only be used for a quick reference.
   To do a positive test use a volt/ohm meter and test the ohms between the terminal and base. Should be .5 to 1 ohm resistance.

When you are ready to get them working correctly ask away, many on here can walk you through the diagnostics of each component easier then the book.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

It would hardly start at all before but lights off right now with a quick push of the button.

 

I use a manual setup in my pickup and like it. The plugs only come on when I want them too. What kind of boat and what are you using for a tranny. are you running a heat exchanger or are you running salt water through it.

 

The boat is a Bayline 3870.

I have twin engines. I didn't put them in the PO did.

The engines were marinized by STAR POWER out of Indy, Indiana

I use a ZF 280 gear. Used to have dropped shaft Velvet Drive but the diesels pounded them to pieces.

I use a heat exchanger.

The engines have more than 3K hours on them mostly running at 2800 rpm.

I plan on adding turbos this fall.

 

what kind of range do you get with twin diesels for powerplants?

 

With a 20K lb boat running about 2700 rpm @ 14 kts I get about a mile per gal

I carry 300 gal

 

I love boats AND diesel engines,,,any chance of getting a picture of the engine setup??

 

Yeah, diesel is the only way to go.

I have some digital pictures but don't know about loading them on this forum.

If you have an email address I can send them to I will get to it when I am home in a few days.

 

Great!! Ill send you a PM thanks